Need to remove front wheel

[Longstone]

I've used the search function and saw where folks have used a bolt and two nuts to remove the wheel as a homemade "tool".

Can you tell me exactly what I need please? I didnt' understand what folks bought to get this to work. I thought one of the posts said a 5/8" bolt and two nuts. Not sure if that's all I needed though.

Going to run by home depot at lunch.

Thanks in advance.

 

[RYC1966]

You take a bolt and tighten two nuts on it...with that you can put the bolt head in the axel and with a wrench on the two nuts turn it out (the axel). There are pinch bolts on the fork legs also...there is a sequence to remove the axel...hopefully somebody else will comment...or look it up in the service manual.

 

[Blanca BusaLess]

Is there a cyclegear store near you ?
Cycle Gear - STOCKTON TOOL COMPANY: Axle Adjustment Tool, front axle tool

 

[Schism]

i just did it last night on my GEN 2 and there were a few fine details you should know before tackling it. i realize you asked for the home depot setup but i wanted to give you a heads up that i didn't see in the SEARCH when removing the wheel. loosen all of the allen bolts (size 4) on the fender for easier removal and remove the brake calipers 2 bolts each (10mm) and tie the right one to the forks out of the way and don't sweat the left side, you'll see what i mean. i scratched my wheel because it was getting hung up on the calipers trying to pull the wheel out. facing the bike straddling the front wheel, the left side of wheel (front brake side) there are 2 10mm pinch bolts at the bottom of the forks side by side that need to be loosened. next i placed my motion pro axle tool socket and inserted it in with a 3/8 ratchet on the right side of the axle. then i grabbed a 5/16th and 1/2 inch ratchet (it was all i had and didn't know the metric size) and loosened the nut on the left. then, loosened the pinch bolts on the right side (clutch shift), and tapped the axle out lightly from left to right with the end of a small screw driver. pull the wheel out from under the fender ever so gently and she will pop out. i am on my way today to get the new BT-016 mounted and ready for tomorrow.

 

[mike1180]

You can use a 5/8 inch Redi Rod connector from Home Depot (about $2) and a socket on the other end.

 

[Longstone]

You take a bolt and tighten two nuts on it...with that you can put the bolt head in the axel and with a wrench on the two nuts turn it out (the axel). There are pinch bolts on the fork legs also...there is a sequence to remove the axel...hopefully somebody else will comment...or look it up in the service manual.

what size nut and bolt? 5/8"?

 

[turbobusa2000]

You can use a 5/8 inch Redi Rod connector from Home Depot (about $2) and a socket on the other end.

 

[Longstone]

Yeah we posted at teh same time

 

[LeDauz]

you can also you to any of the major tool comany sites and look for a 24mm shocket, because there a specail made tool made just to remove the front wheel on some motorcycles

 

[Longstone]

Thanks for the help everyone, I got the 5/8" bolt, coupler and two nuts. Using a 15/16 socket.

I appreciate all of the replies and help.

 

[Longstone]

FYI for anyone else doing this, I purchased a hex coupler nut which fit the axle perfectly

The hex coupler nut along with a 15/16" socket worked perfectly. Didn't need the bolt and nuts.

 

[Blanca BusaLess]

FYI for anyone else doing this, I purchased a hex coupler nut which fit the axle perfectly

The hex coupler nut along with a 15/16" socket worked perfectly. Didn't need the bolt and nuts.

So did it work ?
Is what you have pictured all you needed and if so how did you make it work ?

 

[mike1180]

Congrats!
That piece slides into the axle, and then a socket on the end and you have it.
Hey Longstone, how much was it?
It is about $3 up here.

 

[Sous]

Before I had my 08 Busa, I had a 03 GSX-R and ran into the same problem you are having. I ended up buying a set of stripped nut removers from Sears as they were on sale for $10. The outside diameter of one of the hardened steel nut removers was a dead on fit. Since the remover used a 3/8 driver, it was a flawless match for what I needed.

Here is a similar set
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952166000P

 

[twotonevert]

Also, little tip for you.........put a tube sock on your brake calipers and you wont scratch your wheel getting it off. I wish I had done that the first time.

 

[Longstone]

Congrats!
That piece slides into the axle, and then a socket on the end and you have it.
Hey Longstone, how much was it?
It is about $3 up here.

The hex coupler fit perfectly into the axle. Couldn't have been a better fit. As Mike said use a 15/16" socket wrench over the end of the coupler and remove the axle.

It cost $3 from Home Depot.

I've attached two images of the coupler with the 15/16" socket and a shot of the coupler in the axle. As you can see it's a perfect fit.

Also a shot of why I'm removing the wheel to begin with. Had the bearings go out on me, they fell out while I was removing the wheel.

 

[Casperle]

So the treads are on the clutch side fork. So do you not loosen the pinch bolts on that side? I did and everything is turning.

 

[mike1180]

I just noticed, is the last pic of your bearings?
They look way past shot to me.
There should be no movement up or down or in or out and they should turn smoothly.
Check them and let me know. They are cheap and easy to change.

 

[Longstone]

I followed my shop manual in the image. The directions where:

1. Remove both calipers
2. Loosen pintch bolts on throttle side.
3. Loosen but do not remove axle
4. Loosen pintch bolts on clutch side
5. Remove Axle

That was pretty much it.

The things I found I needed to watch out for:

1. The calipers. I hung them prior to removing the last bolt with a simple tie.
   When removing I covered them with a spare terry cloth I use on my waxer. It was nice because of the elastic. Fit my calipers pretty well too so they didn't scratch my wheel.
2. Don't depress your brake. I put a piece of wedged wood between each the pads in each caliper. Didn't want to accentually hit the brake and squeeze my pistons out.
3. I had to remove my front fender. It wasn't a problem, took less than 5 minutes additional time but my pit bull stand wasn't high enough to get my tire under it.
4. While you have the tire and fender off, take the opportunity to clean all of the otherwise hard to reach areas and both break calipers. I also put a coat of wax on the front fender.

Hope this helps as much as folks helped me. I love paying stuff like this forward.

 

[Longstone]

I just noticed, is the last pic of your bearings?
They look way past shot to me.
There should be no movement up or down or in or out and they should turn smoothly.
Check them and let me know. They are cheap and easy to change.

Yeah they are shot. It's why I'm removing the wheel to begin with

Thanks though.

I'm going to look up how to replace them. I think the manual said i needed a special tool to get them in and out. Going to review it again to see if it's something I can do myself. Found a guy in town that carries them for $16 a set. Seems easy enough IF you have whatever tool the manual was talking about.