Need some opinions/explanations on my pc3 map selection

[III]

Took some time off work today and I finally (after a year or so later) got around to connecting my laptop to the pc3 and having a look at the map that was used by the installer of my exhaust. I did not have it dyno'ed, but rather a copy of a map with the exact same components that had been. So I went to PC's website and got their map for my setup (minus the stacks as there was no option) and compared the 2.

I can pretty much guess what those numbers mean inside the cells of the Power Commander program, but there's a HUGE difference between the two maps, and I was wondering if the differences I'm seeing are really bad or if I just have no idea what I'm looking at/talking about.

As far as the butt dyno's concerned, I almost like the suggested map vs. the installer map, but that could just be all in my head. I haven't made any top end runs yet since I swapped out the map, but low end feels like it has more power or snap (which seems odd to me since the numbers are significantly higher on the installer map). I don't get to the track nearly as much as I need to be with this setup, so I rarely see the top end this setup was designed for. Is the installer map overkill for the type of riding I'm currently doing, which is commuting, occasional 1-2 hour rides w/ friends, etc.?

Can someone who knows more about pc3 tuning help me understand this?

Here's another question/factor in the equation...I did have the ECU flashed with the editor so the top speed restriction was removed and the LOW and MID bodies adjusted by editor as the pc3 is still controlling the HIGHs (which I believe I was told...its been a little while now and I just been ridin it). So at this point, since the pc3 is still hooked up, I'm totally confused as to what's really in control...that or ECU flash, or as stated above, a combo of both? ???

 

[busabeast]

i got ecu editor to remove restrictor and pc3 for tuning... i downloaded all the maps from pc and am going thru them (a couple days on each map) and trying to find one i like...

the general opinion is the pc maps from their site suck... so if you can, i would go to a ecu tuner... i plan on it as soon as the boss says i can...

 

[III]

i got ecu editor to remove restrictor and pc3 for tuning... i downloaded all the maps from pc and am going thru them (a couple days on each map) and trying to find one i like...

the general opinion is the pc maps from their site suck... so if you can, i would go to a ecu tuner... i plan on it as soon as the boss says i can...

Thanks for the response. So I think I'm progressing along like you as far trying to find a suitable map until I actually get it dyno tuned. It's not like it rides bad (or at least in my opinion). I didn't think the pc map for my Ti-Force was all that bad, but considering my riding style, I might not notice.

 

[sixpack577]

Base maps are just that, a baseline to start with. As far as running another bike's dyno map in your bike, it is still just a base map for your bike. It will probably work well assuming that the tune was good, but it won't be perfect by any means.
Two identical bikes, year, make, model, and modifications can be compared. One can be dyno tuned and then it's map transferred to the 2nd bike. The 2nd bike can then be dyno tuned with that map and improvements to that map will need to be made. Maybe small or maybe big, as no bikes are completely the same.
Dyno tune yours with the ecu editor
I've used pc's before and have never been impressed with their base maps.

 

[III]

Base maps are just that, a baseline to start with. As far as running another bike's dyno map in your bike, it is still just a base map for your bike. It will probably work well assuming that the tune was good, but it won't be perfect by any means.
Two identical bikes, year, make, model, and modifications can be compared. One can be dyno tuned and then it's map transferred to the 2nd bike. The 2nd bike can then be dyno tuned with that map and improvements to that map will need to be made. Maybe small or maybe big, as no bikes are completely the same.
Dyno tune yours with the ecu editor
I've used pc's before and have never been impressed with their base maps.

Thank you sir! Did you have a chance to compare the 2 maps that I attached and do you have any opinion on the drastic differences? The next map test (until I decide to get it dyno'd) I was thinking of trying was taking the average of the 2 maps. Any thoughts?

 

[sixpack577]

Thank you sir! Did you have a chance to compare the 2 maps that I attached and do you have any opinion on the drastic differences? The next map test (until I decide to get it dyno'd) I was thinking of trying was taking the average of the 2 maps. Any thoughts?

I'm not a tuner and wouldn't dare speculate. I wouldn't make any changes to a fuel map without it being on a dyno. Adding fuel shouldn't damage anything, but as you know taking it away in the wrong place and you can cause major problems.
I'm sure an accomplished tuner could look at your map and see where problems may be, but as said a dyno is the place to make changes. That way you see in real time if you are improving the situation.
I'm sorry I can't help you, and I understand your situation as it's similiar to my own. I'm waiting to get the exhaust I want before I have my bike dyno tuned, and with slip ons and a gutted converter, mine has some sluggish spots down low too.

 

[cwalker2]

Your tuner is throwing a bunch of fuel at that combo at low rpm. That 71 % duration increase at 20% throttle -3K rpm is a metric F-ton of fuel increase. You have some big numbers in there. I'm not surprised the canned web based map runs and feels better.

 

[III]

Your tuner is throwing a bunch of fuel at that combo at low rpm. That 71 % duration increase at 20% throttle -3K rpm is a metric F-ton of fuel increase. You have some big numbers in there. I'm not surprised the canned web based map runs and feels better.

Thanks for looking at the graphs and your response!

Since it only takes a second to swap maps, I very well may just save that one for track days.

 

[cwalker2]

Yes, I think the web map will work just fine for you until you get to a dyno with eddy current brake and AFR readings. That other maps is just so very rich for your list of mods. It just seems crazy.

 

[III]

I wanted to post my findings that I've noticed since changing back to the base map. I also went ahead and put in some new plugs since I'm right at the 7500 mile mark and since that custom map was way rich...and as I suspected, they were pretty dark. They were Denso Iridium IU27D, which I know is a proper spark plug, but I thought they came with from the factory with NGK CR9E's? I put the NGK's in and I can tell a noticable difference in the crispness of the throttle. Not sure if it's the NGKs or just plugs that aren't fouled. Not that I'm all that concerned with MPGs, but my trip odometer did hit 140 miles, which is waaay foreign territory for me. I know it's obvious with the new map. Bike runs better for the way I'm using it now. Thanks again for all the input.