Need some more help!!!!

G

Guest

If you don't have a shop manual post the error code and we will translate it for you.
 
Thanks, I do have a shop manual, and will do the code thing tonight. I'll try to keep you guys posted as this dilemma progresses. The guys at Dynojet suggested reloading the .006 map again, but I'm gonna try to figure out the codes first, and go from there.

[This message has been edited by RPM (edited 09 June 2000).]
 
Ok, here it goes. I have installed my BMC filter, Akropovic full exhaust, (stainless header, ti mid pipe,
ti muffler), and my Power Commander II (with map .006, that's the one for a Hayabusa w/ a full Akropovic), and I have removed the PAIR valve.
That's what I have done.
The bike would barely even run. My tach was flickering from 2500 to 9500 RPM while the bike was @ approx 3500 RPM!!!! The bike would not accelerate hardly at all. I called Dynojet they said to try the .004 map for the full Yosh system. Better, but way not right. FI light flashing, mid range seems really strong, but the low and top RPM are totally messed up, sputtering and making the light come on. HELP!!!!!! Anyone have a good map to start with, or suggestions as to how I can adjust from one of the ones in there myself. Better yet if you can email me a map, I'm ready to try anything, I only have a week to get this thing straightened out.

My email is:

robertpmurphy@bellatlantic.com
 
Try removing the power commander II and use stock ECU,then work from there.Must be something new that you installed and the brain is the first thing I would suspect.Maybe JohnneyCheese can help.
 
Something doesnt sound right, i have a similar bike setup and have tried the maps you mention and some of the others. I find it hard to accept that the map alone would cause the problems you describe. You could try the revised euro stage 1 map (502?) but it sounds more like a connection problem or a fault in the pc2.

Just out of interest, i had a problem with my temp gauge showing hot when i first connected the pc2. I refitted it and it has been ok since...i put that down to connectivity problems, but i dont know for sure.
 
low voltage in the system causes tach fluctuation sometime so check this first.once you rev the motor voltage increases covering up the problem
 
It was the opposite, it was fine until I revved it up. I think when I get home, I'll try the .502 map.
 
forgot to mention check all vacuum lines you did say you took of pair system keep all of
your electrical connections connected that was for pair system. they are for sensors if you disconnect bike will not run or run like crap.
 
If the FI light is flashing, the ECM has detected a fault. Jump the diag plug and read the fault code. This should tell you where the problem is.

Dave
 
There were no electrical connections to the PAIR valve, and DaveO, I assume you are speaking of the diagnosis plug, but did yo mean jump it, like with a paperclip, and where would the code show up??
 
Ok, before the laptop croaked, I got the .006 map back in there. That map produced codes 24-27, and th eYosh map .004 produced codes 26-27. I looked them up, all ignition related stuff, any tips?? Oh, by the way, running bike without the PC II, it runs strong, just seems a little lean on top.
 
How or why would I have spliced into a coil wire?? I just put in the PC II according to the instructions. Are you suggesting that I should have spliced in to one, or asking if maybe it happened by mistake??

Better yet, can you email me your phone #??

robertpmurphy@bellatlantic.com
 
no the code you are getting is for loss of ingnition signal.
that is why your tach is off.
I am headed out to go racing will not be back till Tomorrow.
Try Motorhead's site
 
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