Need some expert advice

Odin

Registered
Ok I was racing and at about 150 it started making a sound like a knock . It lost a lot of power and knocked like crazy. I had it towed and have torn down the engine. No piston ring damage, no valve damage that I can see, connecting rods good. So now that I have torn the engine down on the advise of another Busa owner who swore I threw a rod, any idea of why I would have had a knock, even when I pulled the bike over and started it again, it knocked like crazy. I did notice the more the load on the engine louder the knock.
 
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I bought the bike used and didn't even notice until now, at some point they removed the oil cooler and plugged the engine side. Wondering if that added to problems in the engine at this point. Your right I hope it didn't ruin the crank but guess I will find out after I pull it.
 
Frank they put on a add on to angle the filter away from the custom exhaust. From looking at stock pics and mine I think they also added a custom oil pan that doesn't even have the hook up for the oil cooler. Pic of it here if you can confirm that.

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No idea I bought it couple of years back when my son started driving my ZX-14 , the bike has a lot of mods on it. Never realized they removed the oil cooler, change the oil all the time but never had a Hayabusa before this to know something was missing.
 
The oil gallery jet - or "diverter" jet diverts oil from the main galley to the oil cooler. Hahn Racecraft gives you some fittings and about three feet of hose that loops all the way around the back of the motor and makes a big loop from the oil cooler outlet fitting to the oil cooler return; some sidewinder manufacturers give you two fittings and a short section of hose to do the same thing. The third method is to remove the dam jet and use block offs where both cooler fittings were. This is what is done on 99% of turbo installs.
 
Get a good shop to polish that up and see how it looks. As long as theres no gouges left over and they don't have to take off too much material that you can't get the proper clearance needed with a new bearing, you should be good to go. A micrometer for the crank and a bore bulge for the rod will help you choose the proper bearing size. It's also in the shop manual.
 
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