Need help with suspension settings

[mcantar]

So the previous owner of my 08 had the bike set as low as possible. I don't know a whole lot about bike suspension, but I know it should be adjusted for your weight and riding style, not for ride height. It definitely doesn't feel right... it wants to buck me off when I go over a bump. The rear shock spring adjusters are set all the way up to the top of the threads.
I was going to mechanically zero the front and back (as one would for optics on a rifle) but I figure I may as well see if I can find some basic numbers to point me in the right direction.
I'm around 150lbs, ride on twisty roads frequently, and ride rather aggressively... where should I be, roughly, on everything? (X clicks from all the way counterclockwise on the forks, Y inches from the top of the threads on the rear spring adjusters, etc). I know these won't be exact and I'll need to fine tune it, I just want a good starting point.

 

[twotonevert]

Give this a read and see if it helps you out. https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenance-do-yourself/89876-jinkster-attacks-suspension.html

 

[mcantar]

That is helpful, thanks! Looks like I'll still need to do some math, he's a lot heavier than I am.

 

[Dark3]

Putting it to factory settings should be a good bet with your weight.

 

[c10]

I'm 136 pounds or about 150 in gear . I set my sag front/rear @ .75" and run with comp / rebound on front and rear two clicks less than the manual . This is good for every day riding for me with mild twisty rides , but if I pick up the pace its not enough rebound/compression damping . When I add the two clicks back its better
but adding a few extra makes it better . Once back on the hwy/regular roads , and riding it becomes to stiff . I just know what ride I plan for the day , and set it accordingly . FYI Gen II 30 pounds lighter than stock weight of 589 lb , and my first settings I still run off n leave 90% riders . My Rain pace is most peoples
dry pace . The busa is sweet compared to my old FJR 1300 with major suspension upgrades .

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[sixpack577]

All you really need to set sag is two things.
Instructions on how to set it, which you have in Jinkster's thread.
And, someone to measure the sag while YOU sit on the bike.
If you wear gear, wear it while sitting on the bike. My full leathers and helmet weigh around 23 lbs, and that much difference is noticeable.
I like to ride corners hard and still occasionally drag a knee.
I keep my sag set for that, and that can make for a stiff ride on rough roads.
However, I prefer it that way, and it keeps me confident that the bike is capable of handling at it's best.
A good handling ballpark sag is 30mm to 32mm for the track(smooth surface), and 36mm 38mm for the street(rougher surface).
Chain tension must also be correct. If it's too tight, it will limit the rear shock's travel and still give you a pogo stick ride.
If the rear is off, but the front is good, or vice versa, the other suffers.
Both front and rear must be correct for proper handling.
Tires also need to have correct psi, and they
can rise 3 to 5 psi as they heat up. The front tire is the majority of your control.
The lower the psi the larger contact patch the tire has with the road.
34 to 36 psi cold front and rear is a good starting point for cornering.
Add a couple psi for staight long distance riding, and 1or 2 psi to the rear for a passenger.