Need help with homegrown turbo

[reaper0995]

i am thinking that intake temps go beyond 150 deg....

10psi of boost at sea level will yield, by calculation, 202 deg F. thats not the theoretical one, thats the projected actual with adiabatic corrections. and then think about potential heat soak... just go to ACE or something and buy a piece of conduit. its what my individual velocity stacks are made from. doing the bends is trickier on it though, since you may not have access to a bender (i didnt). for that, you can buy silicone couplers from ebay or a local performance shop....though i think finding a muffler shop that has some spare mandrel bends laying around (scrap) would be even one better.

 

[Jonny Hotnuts]

Now that I have my oil dump installed, oil cooler blocks (with plug removed) and hedder mounted where does the oil feed come from.

My oil feed input on the turbo body is a 5/16 (or 3/8 not sure yet) flair metal line and not the two bolt line that I have seen on most setups.

I can have a diffrent end put on a line if one is not around but I want to make damn sure that where the oil is tapped from is the correct one.....last thing I need is to starve a bearing becuse flow was deverted incorrectly.


Thanks Reaper......
My stainless welding setup is almost done and I will build it like you suggest.
I see from your pics that you have a few weld in bung holes lol, off hand do you remember how many and what size they are?

 

[reaper0995]

i cant remember the sizes on the bungs and such, but all i did was take off the air temp sensor from the airbox (brass thingy) and go to the hardware store and buy a bolt that it fit. thinking maybe 10mm threads??? i also go an HKS steel flange from ebay. got a bung on the up-pipe too, i think it was a 1/8 inch barb from a hardware store (got from neighbor). also steel.

besides the barb for the wastegate and the bolt/bung for the temp sensor, i dont believe you really need any other specific ones. and depending on your turbo, you may not need a barb (mine didnt have one on it, most t3 and t4's do i believe...). and i have heard of people just wrapping their air temp sensor in foil and putting on the inner fairing since it cannot adjust for air temp nearly as fast as the inlet temps change (NA motors see pretty slow inlet temp drops RELATIVE to turbo inlet temps which change very fast, sensor from the sounds of it cant realistically keep up...) but hey, might as well put the temp sensor in IMHO. its a 10cent nut and takes 5 mins to drill and weld in.

the other bungs you see are for the tie downs. you WILL need t tie it down. there is very little for the couplers to hold on to, so the plenum and/or throttle-bodies tend to blow off if they arent tied down. get whatever works for yours. make sure it fits under tank.....low profile bolts are good. there are two front tie down locations at the fairing holder bolts (small peice of aluminum with rubber bushing in it), then the left side rear of bike use the MAP sensor thing on frame, and right rear there is one way far down somewhat close to the tranny case. these are the ones i use and most others. some have gotten away with three, but having 4 is just that much better.