need help for basic home wiring...

kkattan

Donating Member
Registered
okay guys.. need some basic home wiring help..

i have an switch that is about the kitchen sink. one i turn this switch on.. the sink garabage disposal comes on.. so look under the sink.. and there two outlets..
the garbage disposal is plugged into one of them.. if i plug the disposal into another one.. it still comes on.. here what i want to do..

i want to add an outlet on where the switch is.

can i just get one of those combination switch an single outlet thingies..


like pic below.. so basically just changing it from a single switch to combo switch.. i guess its a very simple procedure..

just wanted to make sure.. anybody have advice before i start.

thanks.

601167_front200.jpg
 
You can absolutely do that but you must make sure that you have a GFI breaker or outlet if you are going to be that close to water.

CAp
 
if it not going into a marble or tile backsplash,(too much hassle to cut,for some folks)if its just going into drywall you could always install a switch/outlet combo that is side X side. That way the outlet could have its own breaker right on the outlet. They get used in bathrooms and other hi humidity area's. I look for a pic for ya...

I found the cover to give you an' idea.

myknobs_1881_1140036452.gif
 
What is the difference between a GFCI outlet and a GFCI breaker?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


For most situations, you can use either a GFCI outlet as the
first device on the circuit, or you can install a breaker with
a built-in GFCI. The former is generally preferred, since GFCI
breakers are quite expensive. For example, an ordinary GE
breaker costs ~US$5; the GFCI model costs ~US$35. There is one
major exception: if you need to protect a ``multi-wire branch
circuit'' (two or more circuits sharing a common neutral wire),
such as a Canadian-style kitchen circuit, you'll need a
multi-pole GFCI breaker. Unfortunately, these are expensive;
the cost can range into the hundreds of dollars, depending on
what brand of panel box you have. But if you must protect such
a circuit (say, for a pool heater), you have no choice.

One more caveat -- GFCI outlets are bulky. You may want to use
an oversize box when installing them. On second thought, use
large (actually deep) boxes everywhere. You'll thank yourself
for it.

Incidentally, if you're installing a GFCI to ensure that one
specific outlet is protected (such as a bathroom), you don't
really have to go to all of the trouble to find the first
outlet in the circuit, you could simply find the first outlet
in the bathroom, and not GFCI anything upstream of it. But
protecting the whole circuit is preferred.

When you install a GFCI, it's a good idea to use the little
"ground fault protected" stickers that come with it and mark
the outlets downstream of the GFCI. You can figure out which
outlets are "downstream", simply by tripping the GFCI with the
test button and see which outlets are dead.

Note that the labels are mandatory for GFCI-protected-but-ungrounded
three prong outlets according to the NEC.




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
What is the difference between a GFCI outlet and a GFCI breaker?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


For most situations, you can use either a GFCI outlet as the
first device on the circuit, or you can install a breaker with
a built-in GFCI.  The former is generally preferred, since GFCI
breakers are quite expensive.  For example, an ordinary GE
breaker costs ~US$5; the GFCI model costs ~US$35.  There is one
major exception:  if you need to protect a ``multi-wire branch
circuit'' (two or more circuits sharing a common neutral wire),
such as a Canadian-style kitchen circuit, you'll need a
multi-pole GFCI breaker.  Unfortunately, these are expensive;
the cost can range into the hundreds of dollars, depending on
what brand of panel box you have.  But if you must protect such
a circuit (say, for a pool heater), you have no choice.

One more caveat -- GFCI outlets are bulky.  You may want to use
an oversize box when installing them.  On second thought, use
large (actually deep) boxes everywhere.  You'll thank yourself
for it.

Incidentally, if you're installing a GFCI to ensure that one
specific outlet is protected (such as a bathroom), you don't
really have to go to all of the trouble to find the first
outlet in the circuit, you could simply find the first outlet
in the bathroom, and not GFCI anything upstream of it.  But
protecting the whole circuit is preferred.

When you install a GFCI, it's a good idea to use the little
"ground fault protected" stickers that come with it and mark
the outlets downstream of the GFCI.  You can figure out which
outlets are "downstream", simply by tripping the GFCI with the
test button and see which outlets are dead.

Note that the labels are mandatory for GFCI-protected-but-ungrounded
three prong outlets according to the NEC.




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
your a genius Rubba..
smile.gif


thanks to Cap also..

guess i have to weigh my options..
 
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