My wooden safe has broken (roll top-roll top desk)

rubbersidedown

rubbersidedown

TURBO-BUSA-RIDIN'-BASTID
Donating Member
Registered
My "Anti-Roomate/and her friends" safe keeping vault has broken. Not much company info except perhaps a company in Oregon,USA.
I'm guessing thats where it was manufactured. One site says "Closed" permanently. Anyways, was wondering if anybody knew what the material was that is used on the inside to give the wood that flexibility to open/close as it rolls up/down. My idea is to use some type of cloth,scuff up the surface and glue on a full length patch using contact cement.It almost looks like some type of heavy paper or something. The 2 halves have separated as clean as if it was cut with a razor blade or scalpel,it's that clean of a break.
Idea's? I would prefer to avoid total disassembly of the desk upper,even thou it appears not to have been glued during manufacture.

d2.jpg


d3.jpg


IDK....feels more like paper than cloth...

d4.jpg


It may come apart nicely...you can see daylight between the contact joints.

d1.jpg


But what an' undertaking...
Thanks,
Rubb.
 
How thick is the wood slats? I'll propose you go to a hardware store and look for cabinet screws. You will want like 1/4". (Based on guessed wood thickness.) You want to not go through the slat but take up as much thickness as you can. Next you will want to go to the drywall section and get webbed taping. I don't have a picture but it is used in bathroom walls as its fiberglass and waterproof. Its also a pretty tough webbing. Get like a 2" wide one. A bit wider if they have it.

Cut 2 pieces the length of your rolltop piece. Stack them on each other. (Doubling the thickness). Use the screws to screw through the webbing screening into the thickest part of the slats and go like 2 slats on either side for attaching. Set your screw gun to like 1. The lightest setting. These screws will strip easily with too much torque. You just want to stop when they hit the surface with the head. I'd put the screws in a zigzag pattern. So one screw in the closest slat, the next screw in the "zig" pattern in the next slat. Do the same for the other side. That webbing should hold just fine with all that reinforced attach points.

You will want Tape wide enough to cover 2 slats on each side at least. I was guessing at 2 inches.

*Disclaimer*
Now I will also say I just tried Gorilla Glue for the first time. That looks to be some good chyt there. Lay in a bed a GG and stick that tape into it. You eliminate the screw tediousness and that would maybe give you an even better bond overall. Once that dries you should have a very tough repair IF its as good as my one time non wood application was.
 
Alternatively, buy a thin rubber (rubba!) sheet, cut it into strips and affix them on the backside of the roll portion. Depending on the thickness of the slats, you could use a staple gun or some very short wood screws to attach it.
 
3m double sided tape on the inside. Put it across the whole thing to the joint on the inside.
 
TallTom said:
How thick is the wood slats? I'll propose you go to a hardware store and look for cabinet screws. You will want like 1/4". (Based on guessed wood thickness.) You want to not go through the slat but take up as much thickness as you can. Next you will want to go to the drywall section and get webbed taping. I don't have a picture but it is used in bathroom walls as its fiberglass and waterproof. Its also a pretty tough webbing. Get like a 2" wide one. A bit wider if they have it.

Cut 2 pieces the length of your rolltop piece. Stack them on each other. (Doubling the thickness). Use the screws to screw through the webbing screening into the thickest part of the slats and go like 2 slats on either side for attaching. Set your screw gun to like 1. The lightest setting. These screws will strip easily with too much torque. You just want to stop when they hit the surface with the head. I'd put the screws in a zigzag pattern. So one screw in the closest slat, the next screw in the "zig" pattern in the next slat. Do the same for the other side. That webbing should hold just fine with all that reinforced attach points.

You will want Tape wide enough to cover 2 slats on each side at least. I was guessing at 2 inches.

*Disclaimer*
Now I will also say I just tried Gorilla Glue for the first time. That looks to be some good chyt there. Lay in a bed a GG and stick that tape into it. You eliminate the screw tediousness and that would maybe give you an even better bond overall. Once that dries you should have a very tough repair IF its as good as my one time non wood application was.
Click to expand...
hayabuser said:
Alternatively, buy a thin rubber (rubba!) sheet, cut it into strips and affix them on the backside of the roll portion. Depending on the thickness of the slats, you could use a staple gun or some very short wood screws to attach it.
Click to expand...
VIPER said:
3m double sided tape on the inside. Put it across the whole thing to the joint on the inside.
Click to expand...
Gentlemen...*and you too 'Buser*....good ideas. :thumbsup:
Thank you,
Rubb.
 
@TallTom wood to thin for screws.
@hayabuser I thought rubber too hard to work with getting it a fixed to every slat.
@VIPER gave yer idea some serious thought,then figured I do some preventive and cover any future breaks.

So grabbed some clothlike/canvas stuff. Scuffed surface to promote adhesion with wire wheel,applied flexible cloth glue,stuck down new piece over entire surface...GTG.

1A.jpg
1AA.jpg
1AAA.jpg


TA DA....

1AAAA.jpg


Thanks for the idea'rs...
Rubb.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

D
Roll on
Replies
11
Views
874
BIKE DUDE
BIKE DUDE
rubbersidedown
Current living sitchu sukks,but this will help...
Replies
8
Views
737
Slowstang305
Slowstang305
Revlis
Rolled my Own... First AR15 build... Good Fun, learned a lot.
2
Replies
33
Views
1,799
Professor
Professor
R
Rolling knock driving me nuts!!!
2
Replies
20
Views
2,692
Rdmetz
R
ColdBusa
Top 10 douchebags
2
Replies
25
Views
2,417
jgm1320
jgm1320
Back
Top