My 'tasteful' mods thread


#22
Oem location Is situated in a high heat area, especially at slow speeds/ stopped in traffic. On a warm day it can skew the air/fuel mixture due to 'warmer than actual' readings. Ive heard of people experiencing a rough run, or negative symptoms.
Moving it to the ram air tube cures that :) and i was looking for stuff to do, so... lol
fun little project
 
#23
Hey all,
Things are slowin down here. I think i ran out of things to do lol oh wait, still have a seafoam throttle body treatment and to clean/lube/straighten the chain.. *yawn*
Took her for a ride today. My goodness she is loud. Like not okay loud lol need a muffler baaad.. but damn is she light! Can def notice that exhaust is gone lol gettin closer to my old 750....

Anyway, finished up the flush mount turn signals yesterday, and just finished installing the bar end mirrors. It all looks awesome.

Thats all for now. Ill post some 'checkpoint checkpoint 1' pictures tomorrow in the sun. Prob gonna spend a lil money tonight internet surfing :) hmmmm

Thanks again for following. Take care

20180617_223124.jpg


20180617_223133.jpg


20180617_191018.jpg
 
#25
Today not really anything new. I cut the stock muffler up-pipe to match the end of the titanium akra midpipe. They are the same outside diameter so i installed a coupler. Does not sound like i want it to, nor look like i want it to, so its not gonna stay.

Gotta go out of town for a few days now. But to all following this thread, i have a surprise coming soon :) just waiting for the mail :)

Thanks and have a good one guys

20180618_175913.jpg
 
#27
20180619_111041.jpg

Hey guys, back from out of town. Went for awesome rides this weekend. Logged probably bout 600miles. Def looking into heli-bars soon lol maybe even shave the seat. Anyones thoughts???

Next round of mods coming soon.

Today did some cool stuff. Pulled the steering stabilizer, purged the old fluid, then put in 75W90. Way stiffer! Im excited. For some reason at about 145mph it feels like she may be gettin a little headshake. May be in my head, but better safe than sorry.
Redid all the suspension adjustments also, even took the calipers to the front preload, just gotta adjust sag tomorrow and we'll be ready again :) excited to see how the stabilizer may stiffen things up.

The ecu-flash i had done right before going out of town turned out decent. They loaded a full-Akrapovic map, rev limiter at 11k, ignition retardants gone, blahblahblah.. the outcome..
definitely smoother at really low rpm/low gears! The sound even seems more full, but havent noticed any increase in power per se'.. wasnt expecting to tho really.
Once i get the Delkevic muffler (which came in today) completely installed and a bmc race filter theyre gonna dyno tune it for only an extra $100 :)
Thatll be cool.
Anything else i should do before getting the custom tune?
Thanks for reading y'all.

Oh one more thing.. Lucked out and found a 99-02 wva1 euro busa ignition switch with the lights shutoff. Ordered that! Spent the last few hours going over all the wiring to bring it up to the euro-spec. Turns out someone who installed the alarm before must have done some wierd stuff. So i took it all apart and re-did so itll be a plug n play once the switch arrives. Super stoked. Tested it with a switch and its awesome! A ground interrupt is cool and all, but actual factory switched headlights is SOOO COOL lol

Thanks guys. And whoever read this novel, get back to me about the questions.
Later!

20180625_215655.jpg
 
#28
whats up guys and gals, hope everyone is well and happy 4th of July! Make sure not to blow any limbs off...

So BMC race filter came in
BMC air filter.jpg


Also, if anybody has any recommendations of what should be installed before a professional dyno tune, please let me know!!!!!

So, took the bike apart this week and had a few things in mind.

Lately, I've been slowly testing the waters with straight line speed. A tad different than my K7 750. But higher speeds on the Busa bring me fear of headshake/ speed wobbles. It just feels finicky, or untamed, or like at any second it could just shake out of control.. maybe I'm just not used to it.
So this had been especially more since dialing in the front suspension!

My theory; adjusting the preload in the front for my weight (225lbs+) lifted the front end ride height, and the other adjustments stiffened it way up. Buuuut, this was never fully completed with proper rear adjustments. Thus the increase in only front ride height decreased the 'rake', causing a more sensitive touch. I could be wrong tho…

Anyway, I finally set the rear sag, and set the rest of the rear to my weight. Then redialed in all the front suspension settings as well. Once she's back together I will take some notes and try some new adjustments.
have high hopes!

Here's some pics. Put it up on rear stand. put a long 3/8" extension thru swingarm bolt, lined it up with jack stands to unload rear suspension. Taped the end of the flexible tape measure to the swing arm, then put a piece of electrical tape on the rear cowling. Measured 'unloaded', then set it down, had a buddy hold it up while I got in riding position, then he measured. I set the sag to 1.5". Then used one of the notorious suspension guides on here to complete the adjustments.
Super excited to ride it!

Resized_20180703_215749.jpeg
Resized_20180703_215801.jpeg



Next I pulled the steering dampener off, drained and purged all the fluid, then put 75W90 in.
I used a 3cc syringe to get it all in there. Took a while and I heard submerging it is the way to go, but I didn't feel that necessary.
Again, haven't ridden it yet since this either, but just moving the bars at a stop is a huge difference. You'll feel it when you get the new fluid it and your compressing and extending the dampener to purge it. It
is way stiffer. ***just realized I wrote this part on the previous post as well.. sry****

Resized_20180703_213905.jpeg

Resized_20180703_215422.jpeg



Next, I removed the handlebars. Reason being is that as tall as I am, the grips are just a tad narrower than I prefer, so.. To widen them you have to remove the bar, then flip it over and cut out another notch so one the clip-on/ bar clamp screws will be able to thread thru properly. That was easy, and only widened them about 1cm. Made about 8-10mm more room on each clip on between each master cylinder and the respective switch housing.

Resized_20180703_221014.jpeg
Resized_20180703_213929.jpeg



Also, I picked up an R1 throttle tube.
Resized_20180703_213918.jpeg



While I had everything apart from my last post, I decided to completely remove the wiring harness and do some clean-up (yes, I am crazy).

First, I cut the wires at the ignition lock cylinder; It is now to be used as only a handlebar locking mechanism. Next, I traced all the wires towards the back of the bike, shortening anything wherever possible. Wired in 2 separate fuse panels at the rear of the bike; keeping the fan and fuel on their own circuits, and then separating the ignition circuit from the signals and light circuits. Kept the factory fuse box and relay center up front, but it only controls lighting. I re-wired the factory 'run/stop' switch on the right handlebar to be a 'jump to ground' for manual electric fan override, am waiting for the garage door opener to be here so I can wire that in to the factory 'ignition push-button', and when the 'Euro' handlebar switch finally arrives I can finish hooking up the optional lights :)
The Euro connector has 3-positions for lights, so i'm thinking: Run all lights off in 'Off' (duh), THEN, run only the brown wire in the 2nd position so only rear running light and front USB charger will be on, then the "on" position will be all of the them of course.

This was a lot of work, tedious work, but it'll be cool. I like having the fuse box's in the back under the seat cowl so I will always have easy access to them, and I like having the absence of the bikes ignition on the handlebars. All the switches are hidden and I plan to install an RFID very soon for extra security.
ALSO, lol I deleted the kickstand connector and ran a switch off of it. That way when I get off the bike, I can kill the switch, then if somebody happens to be successful stealing it, the bike will simply shut off whenever they put it in gear... lol Pretty stoked.
Putting the harness back together now.

Resized_20180703_214045.jpeg

Resized_20180703_215717.jpeg
Resized_20180703_215515.jpeg
Resized_20180703_215544.jpeg



Starting from right to left:
Ignition on switch..... run/ kill switch..… push-button start...….

Resized_20180703_215615.jpeg



Ok, almost done...
I removed the crankcase breather hose that plugged in to the airbox, and routed a hose to the back of the bike. Pretty much cosmetic, but I did try and get it in a place that would create some sort of vacuum to aid in free flowing crankcase pressure. The hole in the right side of the rear cowling seemed perfect. And it looks awesome when the fairings are bolted on (completed pics coming soon).
crankcase breather plugged.jpg
Resized_20180703_220912.jpeg



So the last thing i'm doing for now is making the undertail a little more custom.
I like the look of no reflector on the back light, and the undertail flush with the bottom of the painted cowling. I will attempt to do that with the stock undertail plastic. Probably do a sort of 'body drop' with it; lowering all the inside portion and raising the outside portion to match underneath. Then Dremel off the reflector and install a new license plate light. Pretty stoked. But I wish I could use the Dremel at 2am lol but I suppose it's a little unnecessary....
Also, I found a plastic bin I will be cutting up to make for more trunk space. I will never lower the bike, and having just set the Sag, I have a pretty good idea of how much deeper I can go without bottoming out; even 2-up.
Resized_20180703_214153.jpeg



Just kidding, not even close to done.
So I got the exhaust reducer in for the Delkevic Muffler. It's a 50.8mm inlet, and the Akrapovic Header/ midpipe is 60.5mm outside diameter. Needless to say, the cheap Chinese exhaust adaptor did not work at all. I may just buckle down and buy an Akrapovic slip-on and return this Delkevic… Or I could pop the rivets off the muffler inlet, have my buddy cut the 50.8mm inlet section out and weld in a flange that will slide right in place on the Akrapovic pipe. Then maybe even weld on 2 of those spring holders too.. Still thinking about it...
But I got a carbon fiber heat shield to compliment the exhaust joint, just want a dang muffler already! lol
I mounted it up for ya'll to see at least. Pretty cool looking :)
Resized_20180703_214134.jpeg
Resized_20180703_213707.jpeg



Ok, and lastly.. Cleaned the chain, gonna wax it once I get her back on the ground. Pretttttyyyy...
Bleed the brakes with fresh AMSOIL DOT4 fluid.
And once she's running again i'll use the Seafoam treatment spray in the throttle bodies, etc.... Pretty awesome stuff!
Resized_20180703_215448.jpeg
Resized_20180703_215355.jpeg


Thanks for following everyone. I know their long posts but I was this to be a help to somebody someday thinking of doing the same kinds of stuff. So mayyybe.. just mayyybe… They will use the search function successfully instead of playing musical thread-starter...

Take care and talk soon
 
#29
whats up guys and gals, hope everyone is well and happy 4th of July! Make sure not to blow any limbs off...

So BMC race filter came in View attachment 1583217

Also, if anybody has any recommendations of what should be installed before a professional dyno tune, please let me know!!!!!

So, took the bike apart this week and had a few things in mind.

Lately, I've been slowly testing the waters with straight line speed. A tad different than my K7 750. But higher speeds on the Busa bring me fear of headshake/ speed wobbles. It just feels finicky, or untamed, or like at any second it could just shake out of control.. maybe I'm just not used to it.
So this had been especially more since dialing in the front suspension!

My theory; adjusting the preload in the front for my weight (225lbs+) lifted the front end ride height, and the other adjustments stiffened it way up. Buuuut, this was never fully completed with proper rear adjustments. Thus the increase in only front ride height decreased the 'rake', causing a more sensitive touch. I could be wrong tho…

Anyway, I finally set the rear sag, and set the rest of the rear to my weight. Then redialed in all the front suspension settings as well. Once she's back together I will take some notes and try some new adjustments.
have high hopes!

Here's some pics. Put it up on rear stand. put a long 3/8" extension thru swingarm bolt, lined it up with jack stands to unload rear suspension. Taped the end of the flexible tape measure to the swing arm, then put a piece of electrical tape on the rear cowling. Measured 'unloaded', then set it down, had a buddy hold it up while I got in riding position, then he measured. I set the sag to 1.5". Then used one of the notorious suspension guides on here to complete the adjustments.
Super excited to ride it!

View attachment 1583222 View attachment 1583221


Next I pulled the steering dampener off, drained and purged all the fluid, then put 75W90 in.
I used a 3cc syringe to get it all in there. Took a while and I heard submerging it is the way to go, but I didn't feel that necessary.
Again, haven't ridden it yet since this either, but just moving the bars at a stop is a huge difference. You'll feel it when you get the new fluid it and your compressing and extending the dampener to purge it. It
is way stiffer. ***just realized I wrote this part on the previous post as well.. sry****

View attachment 1583223
View attachment 1583219


Next, I removed the handlebars. Reason being is that as tall as I am, the grips are just a tad narrower than I prefer, so.. To widen them you have to remove the bar, then flip it over and cut out another notch so one the clip-on/ bar clamp screws will be able to thread thru properly. That was easy, and only widened them about 1cm. Made about 8-10mm more room on each clip on between each master cylinder and the respective switch housing.

View attachment 1583224 View attachment 1583225


Also, I picked up an R1 throttle tube. View attachment 1583226


While I had everything apart from my last post, I decided to completely remove the wiring harness and do some clean-up (yes, I am crazy).

First, I cut the wires at the ignition lock cylinder; It is now to be used as only a handlebar locking mechanism. Next, I traced all the wires towards the back of the bike, shortening anything wherever possible. Wired in 2 separate fuse panels at the rear of the bike; keeping the fan and fuel on their own circuits, and then separating the ignition circuit from the signals and light circuits. Kept the factory fuse box and relay center up front, but it only controls lighting. I re-wired the factory 'run/stop' switch on the right handlebar to be a 'jump to ground' for manual electric fan override, am waiting for the garage door opener to be here so I can wire that in to the factory 'ignition push-button', and when the 'Euro' handlebar switch finally arrives I can finish hooking up the optional lights :)
The Euro connector has 3-positions for lights, so i'm thinking: Run all lights off in 'Off' (duh), THEN, run only the brown wire in the 2nd position so only rear running light and front USB charger will be on, then the "on" position will be all of the them of course.

This was a lot of work, tedious work, but it'll be cool. I like having the fuse box's in the back under the seat cowl so I will always have easy access to them, and I like having the absence of the bikes ignition on the handlebars. All the switches are hidden and I plan to install an RFID very soon for extra security.
ALSO, lol I deleted the kickstand connector and ran a switch off of it. That way when I get off the bike, I can kill the switch, then if somebody happens to be successful stealing it, the bike will simply shut off whenever they put it in gear... lol Pretty stoked.
Putting the harness back together now.

View attachment 1583227
View attachment 1583228 View attachment 1583229 View attachment 1583230


Starting from right to left:
Ignition on switch..... run/ kill switch..… push-button start...….

View attachment 1583231


Ok, almost done...
I removed the crankcase breather hose that plugged in to the airbox, and routed a hose to the back of the bike. Pretty much cosmetic, but I did try and get it in a place that would create some sort of vacuum to aid in free flowing crankcase pressure. The hole in the right side of the rear cowling seemed perfect. And it looks awesome when the fairings are bolted on (completed pics coming soon).
View attachment 1583232 View attachment 1583233


So the last thing i'm doing for now is making the undertail a little more custom.
I like the look of no reflector on the back light, and the undertail flush with the bottom of the painted cowling. I will attempt to do that with the stock undertail plastic. Probably do a sort of 'body drop' with it; lowering all the inside portion and raising the outside portion to match underneath. Then Dremel off the reflector and install a new license plate light. Pretty stoked. But I wish I could use the Dremel at 2am lol but I suppose it's a little unnecessary....
Also, I found a plastic bin I will be cutting up to make for more trunk space. I will never lower the bike, and having just set the Sag, I have a pretty good idea of how much deeper I can go without bottoming out; even 2-up.
View attachment 1583234


Just kidding, not even close to done.
So I got the exhaust reducer in for the Delkevic Muffler. It's a 50.8mm inlet, and the Akrapovic Header/ midpipe is 60.5mm outside diameter. Needless to say, the cheap Chinese exhaust adaptor did not work at all. I may just buckle down and buy an Akrapovic slip-on and return this Delkevic… Or I could pop the rivets off the muffler inlet, have my buddy cut the 50.8mm inlet section out and weld in a flange that will slide right in place on the Akrapovic pipe. Then maybe even weld on 2 of those spring holders too.. Still thinking about it...
But I got a carbon fiber heat shield to compliment the exhaust joint, just want a dang muffler already! lol
I mounted it up for ya'll to see at least. Pretty cool looking :)
View attachment 1583235 View attachment 1583236


Ok, and lastly.. Cleaned the chain, gonna wax it once I get her back on the ground. Pretttttyyyy...
Bleed the brakes with fresh AMSOIL DOT4 fluid.
And once she's running again i'll use the Seafoam treatment spray in the throttle bodies, etc.... Pretty awesome stuff! View attachment 1583237 View attachment 1583238

Thanks for following everyone. I know their long posts but I was this to be a help to somebody someday thinking of doing the same kinds of stuff. So mayyybe.. just mayyybe… They will use the search function successfully instead of playing musical thread-starter...

Take care and talk soon
That is very nice work. If you look at my post [my very slow build] you can see what I did. The throttle is from an R1 with an R6 tube, the switches are from K&L and Parts Unlimited and MPS Racing, The clip ons are Driven the top tree is from McIntosh. There is no ignition switch. All parts picked for light weight.
 
#30
That is very nice work. If you look at my post [my very slow build] you can see what I did. The throttle is from an R1 with an R6 tube, the switches are from K&L and Parts Unlimited and MPS Racing, The clip ons are Driven the top tree is from McIntosh. There is no ignition switch. All parts picked for light weight.
Heck ya ill check out ur thread soon. Tryin to bolt this all back up asap so i can go buy an akrapovic muffler nearby lol

Ya thats similar to what im trying to do. Mainly ergonomic stuff with just a hint of flash. Switches are my focus right now.
The R6 throttle tube i had on a K7 750 a few years back, it was even a little much for that bike lol we'll see how the R1 feels.

Here is a switch assembly i was looking at for the left side, but idk what id do with my high idle lever.?.?...
Any experience with moving it? Or removing it for something similar but still operational?
Screenshot_20180704-071420.png



Was thinking about this but also i wouldnt want the labels on it already lol id want it blank and/or ill tell em what to engrave. Know what i mean?
 

sixpack577

Top Gun
Registered
#31
If you have stock front fork springs, and are 225lbs, that's your problem.
You Need aftermarket springs for your weight, anyone over 200lbs (remember to account for the weight of your gear, leathers, boots, helmet, whatever).
The rear shock can handle your weight fine, as you've noticed.
What psi front/rear are you running?
 
#32
If you have stock front fork springs, and are 225lbs, that's your problem.
You Need aftermarket springs for your weight, anyone over 200lbs (remember to account for the weight of your gear, leathers, boots, helmet, whatever).
The rear shock can handle your weight fine, as you've noticed.
What psi front/rear are you running?
Thats crazy. Suzuki had to know big American beef cakes would be majority riding this thing.

Well i fluctuate with the seasons. Currently i am 210, once fall hits i put on 30-40lbs... lol ... i lift and change diets, etc. So i average 225.

Being at least 210+ what would u recomend i change with front suspension? Could i get away with just a heavier fork oil?
Alsl i have the front preload set to i believe 3 or 5 full turns out (just shy of revealing the 3rd line). dampening set to 4 clicks out top, 5 clicks out bottom. Any recomendations?

Anyway... tire pressure..
I run a solid ~35 front and rear for everyday riding. I air down to 32 if we are planning on being spirited. Ideally in that range at all times.
32-34 cold is ideal. I trust the feel more.
Oh and with passenger i jack rear up to 40 and front to ~38

What u think?
 

sixpack577

Top Gun
Registered
#33
psi is about what I run
The reason the springs don't work, is because they have a weight range.
The average sport rider is under 200lbs in gear.
You need to talk to Ohlins or Racetech, they will get you what you need.
Heavier oil will change the feel, but not correct the problem. The forks would likely feel less flimsy with 7w than stock 5w.
The sag should be ballpark of 35mm front and rear for street riding, and then roadside adjustments to get it just right.
There is no specific correct setting.
 
#34
Ok, thanks for info. Ill talk to Ohlins.
And im right about 38mm so not too shabby.

psi is about what I run
The reason the springs don't work, is because they have a weight range.
The average sport rider is under 200lbs in gear.
You need to talk to Ohlins or Racetech, they will get you what you need.
Heavier oil will change the feel, but not correct the problem. The forks would likely feel less flimsy with 7w than stock 5w.
The sag should be ballpark of 35mm front and rear for street riding, and then roadside adjustments to get it just right.
There is no specific correct setting.
At the beginning of ur post? What is the PSI u run?
 
#36
Hi. I run Trach Dynamics Slammers with 10W racing shock oil. The springs are set for my weight + gear at 160lbs + the weight of the turbo. The front forks brakes masters and switches and wheel was about $8000.00
Holy s**t, spoiled much.!.! Lol

And Wheel? (Not plural)? Only one aftermarket wheel?

Ya Ohlins assemblys are radically expensive, im sure theyre worth it tho.
And marchesini mag wheels :shocked: what i would do for a set of those..

I could prob settle for ohlins cartridges. But someday i will own magnesium wheels. Its my dream. That and a dodge viper lol

Thanks for ur input. Im excited to get the handling capabilities of this beast locked in.

I have a set of Michelin power 3's for when these powers wear out. Im excited to go back to a 180 rear tire too.

Anyway.. almost all patched up here in the garage. Gotta plug the harness in and pray she fires.
Thanka for following everyone who is.
 
#37
Holy s**t, spoiled much.!.! Lol

And Wheel? (Not plural)? Only one aftermarket wheel?

Ya Ohlins assemblys are radically expensive, im sure theyre worth it tho.
And marchesini mag wheels :shocked: what i would do for a set of those..

I could prob settle for ohlins cartridges. But someday i will own magnesium wheels. Its my dream. That and a dodge viper lol

Thanks for ur input. Im excited to get the handling capabilities of this beast locked in.

I have a set of Michelin power 3's for when these powers wear out. Im excited to go back to a 180 rear tire too.

Anyway.. almost all patched up here in the garage. Gotta plug the harness in and pray she fires.
Thanka for following everyone who is.
Hi. That was a magnesium DYE mag front wheel. I also the rear too not included in the price of the clip. the clip DYE mag rear wheel McIntosh swingarm Penski shock with Ti spring, Ti rear chain ,subfraim,+ ti bolts about $9250.00
 
#39
Hey all, another update on the mods :)
Things havent changed much here except for they have! Haha
Check out the akra muffler
20180803_140417.jpg


It is so perfect (except for being slightly used) and sounds sooooo good.
Thats the latest mod so far. Was gonna go with a Delkevic but the inlet was not the right size. Tried a 61mm>51mm adaptor but that still didnt work like id wanted. Figured to spend a lil extra an get the akra, glad i did. Only ran $325 on ebay. Just gotta give her a good polish this winter and she'll be good as new.
Check oujt the little heat shield on got on her too. I like it, $40 on eBay, tasteful and unique.

Next project is wiring again. I really enjoy it and want it to be perfect. Just arrived are these three parts:
Screenshot_20180731-222129.jpg


Left side aluminum switch assembly

Screenshot_20180731-222203.jpg


Right side aluminum switch assembly

20180727_172147.jpg


WAV1 Euro switch assembly :)

Def still thinking of the combination these will take in varying their operations. You'll see with time.

And the most important mod....
Screenshot_20180801-090828.png


The M.unit Blue
if you dont know what it is, def check it out.

So I know what you're thinking. What about the choke cable on the left side? Well I also ordered the remote idle cable and mount to mount it out the right fairing by my shin so I can do away completely with the choke cable and still have a high idle choice by screw. Will post pictures with part numbers once they arrive.

Also ordered the R6 throttle tube. The R1 throttle tube is still not quick enough for me so hopefully the R6 will feel better. May get some K7 gsxr1000 grips for her, those are my favorite.

So there it is, my winter projects. I I have a feeling that this thread will go on for years lol

I got a staple in my rear tire the other day and have had to fill it twice every day in order to ride so I finally pulled it off and took it to the shop to get patched. Hoping I can get the rest of the season on that rear tire, if not I have some Michelin Pilot 3s that are going on.

The rear brake pads are super low so I'll get some EBC high-heat sintered pads or something of the sort, and may even be ordering some ceramic wheel bearings. Might as well put a braided line on the back too, and a lightweight rotor, or at least a new rotor because the guy who had it before me definitely warped the rear rotor slightly.
I'm a big believer in rear brake use and I might as well put it back together better then it came apart. We will see

Thanks for following
 
#40
Replacement akrapovic springs ps-1 came in for exhaust
20180811_093831.jpg


New ebc prolite rear rotor, sintered hh pads front, organic rears
20180811_093853.jpg

20180811_093838.jpg


Titanium sprocket nuts too, for the hell of it lol
20180811_093927.jpg


Ceramic wheel bearings, 90° valve stems, and michelin pilot power 3's being installed today at local shop
20180811_102815.jpg

20180811_102834.jpg

Screenshot_20180811-103412.jpg


Lots more coming shortly
 

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