My Rostra Cruise Install



FALQN

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Just adding to the Rostra Files:

Bought my cruise from The Cruise Control Store in MI. It was here the next day with all of the necessary parts, including upgraded engagement switch for $255.

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FALQN

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Drilled a hole in the trunk for the cable and sent the wires an cable down the left side of the bike next to the battery.

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FALQN

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Routed the cable and loom next to the main harness and secured them with ties to keep them from getting pinched by the seat.

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FALQN

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After a small loop under the tank, for the cable, I clamped the cable to a bracket that came with the kit. I cut the end off of the black bracket and secured it to the upper fairing pin bracket. Attaching to the throttle bodies from the rear keeps the linkage free from catching on something and sticking open. I had to make my own linkage bracket to step it away from the throttle linkage and I used a star washer to grip the throttle body securely, so there would be no slipping.

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FALQN

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The loom continues up the right side next to the main harness. The VSS signal is tapped into at the speed sensor (white wire). I tried to splice into secondary harnesses and not the main, when possible. All splices are soldered. I spliced into the black (pulse) wire on the sensor harness, which is the pink/white wire in other write-ups.

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FALQN

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The loom terminates behind the left fairing. Many of the splices take place here. The power for the unit is taken from a heavier gauge orange wire. Hot side of the brake switch is followed down from the front brake switch. The Rostra switch is tied into the position lights; which was pretty easy since there were connections already made for the switchbacks. I hacked up the Rostra harness at this point also. I cut off unused connectors and took almost a foot of the harness out of the equation...soldered everything back together. The NSS Neutral Safety Switch is also tied in here...more about this in a minute....

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FALQN

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There are multiple ways to deactivate this cruise; brakes, tach signal (senses over-revving when using manual trans), NSS, and optional clutch disengagement switch. I wanted to use the brakes and the clutch switch and had read where other installers used the NSS (neutral safety switch normally used for auto trans) to function as a clutch disengagement. It took awhile but I was able to find out how to use the NSS at the clutch. The black/yellow wire at the clutch is the wire to use. Follow it down the left side harness and tie in near the other connections. Now, when you go through your diagnostics for testing, make sure you have your Run/Stop switch in the run position. When using the NSS wire and the Run/Stop switch is in the Stop position, it creates some kind of ground that disables the unit and keeps the LED diagnostic light on. Since the bike will not be using the cruise in the 'Stop' position...this is not a big deal.

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FALQN

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For the switch bracket, I used a galvanized anchor plate from a home store. I mounted mine angled down to maintain visual access to the clutch fluid reservoir. I marked off the template and then notched the hole so that I could remove the bracket when needed without messing with the harness. I then cleaned and sanded the bracket and gave it a couple coatings of plasti-dip.

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FALQN

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If you opt for the switch with the engagement light, you will need two relays: one for the brakes and the other for the engagement function. Because the Busa has LED's, there is no ground through the brake lights. So, you have to use a relay to create a ground connection for brakelight deactivation. You can see mine right next to the brake strobe module.

The engagement light relay is mounted on the other side where all of the ground wires are routed to the battery.

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FALQN

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Cleaned up wiring...

The number of wires involved was daunting, especially with two relays and many of the wires are the same color. I took my time and went at my pace.

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FALQN

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Finished and working! I only took it out to go down the street a few times to see if it works. My first passes were at 40 and 45 and nothing happened, the engagement light turned on and went out. Did another pass at 60, the engagement light came on and she settled in at 55!!!! I had the biggest grin on my face as she held steady and firm before I hit the brakes to shut it down. I still need to do a full trial and adjust some of the toggles...it could come on a bit sooner, I lost 5 mph while it engaged...BUT I'm a happy camper!!

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Sous

Donating Member
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Congrats and welcome to the club. As Captain mentioned, this is the single best mod I have ever done to any motorcycle for my riding style. During my 120 mile round trip commute, the cruise control not only maintains my speed nearly to the exact MPH, but it also increased my MPG's because I am not constantly adjusting the throttle.

I use it on a daily basis and love the mod.
 

FALQN

Registered
Congrats and welcome to the club. As Captain mentioned, this is the single best mod I have ever done to any motorcycle for my riding style. During my 120 mile round trip commute, the cruise control not only maintains my speed nearly to the exact MPH, but it also increased my MPG's because I am not constantly adjusting the throttle.

I use it on a daily basis and love the mod.
Thanks, Sous. I'm anxious to see how much I'm going to appreciate this mod. I'm planning on some extended trips this year and can't wait!
 

twotonevert

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Oh you will love this on cross country trips. We took two long trips last years, one in April and one in September. This is invaluable and the miles melt away. Check your dip switch settings, you shouldnt be losing 5mph when setting it.
 

OZZYBUSA

Registered
Great writeup with brief but effective notes and brilliant pictures....go to the top of the class!!:laugh:

But ... I would like to know if the cruise control unit has been tested by yourself or anyone else on long down hill runs ?

How does this setup control your set downhill speed ?

Does it let the bike build up speed like most units do ?
 


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