My first attempt at this EVER...

[PaLVBusa]

So im doing my first ever oil change by myself so bare with me while I explain my dilema.

My father never changed any oil in his vehicles growing up, we always took it to a garage so I have never witnessed first hand what to do.

I am well aware of the basics. Take off oil plug, drain oil, remove filter, replace filter and plug, fill it up and pray you did it right. Not an issue there.

My questions:
Should I warm the bike up first?
Change filter each time?
I Only have rear stand, would it be better to just change oil flat on ground rather then just on the rear stand?
Changing to Synthetic Oil for first time, is there something special I need to do to prepare bike for change from regular oil to synthetic?

Anyways didnt mean to start yet ANOTHER oil thread but unfortunatly there are so many that finding simple answers is harder then you might think..

Thank you in advance for any advice you can give..

 

[III]

My questions:
Should I warm the bike up first? Yes. Let it run for a few minutes to get the oil warmed up and moving around. It drains better when its warmer and less viscous.

Change filter each time? The manual says you can get away with it like every other time, but as I read once on here https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-...74-how-often-do-u-change-your-oil-filter.html -- see comment #4 (Johnny Cheese). I'd listen to what he suggests.

I Only have rear stand, would it be better to just change oil flat on ground rather then just on the rear stand? I like to put mine up on the rear stand for clearance when getting to the bolt and taking the fairing's off for stability and keeping it upright. Once you've drained it and put everything back together, I usually take it down then and fill it on level ground so you can get an accurate reading in the oil window down by the case.

Changing to Synthetic Oil for first time, is there something special I need to do to prepare bike for change from regular oil to synthetic? I've read that some go from non-syn, to semi-syn, to full-syn over the course of the first 3 changes. Keep searching for input on this...it's on the board here somewhere, but most are looking to go to full synthetic.

Anyways didnt mean to start yet ANOTHER oil thread but unfortunatly there are so many that finding simple answers is harder then you might think..

Thank you in advance for any advice you can give..

See responses above...

A few other things to note:
- Watch out for overtightening or STRIPPING the oil pan bolt when you put it back in. If you have a torque wrench, I'm pretty sure it's 23 ft/lbs. Basically, get it as tight as you can with your fingers, then a 1/4 of a turn with the wrench. Very common mistake the first time people change their own oil.
- Make sure when taking off the old oil filter that the old o-ring isn't still stuck to the motor. Sometimes if it's been awhile, that old ring stays adhered, so when you go to put the new one on, there's a double ring, no seal and oil will leak when it starts moving. Just double check to make sure it came off with old filter.
- Use Blanca's fairing removal tutorial if it's your first time. It's a sticky in GEN II info.
- Make sure to add oil on level ground, NOT ON THE STAND. You'll end up putting to much in and have to drain some out once you take it off the stand and see the oil window is over full.
- Aftermarket exhaust may require some removal of connecting hoses, etc.

Here's a link to my photos that I took when I did my first oil change. I covered the headers and pipes with foil to keep the oil off them when it drains. https://www.hayabusa.org/gallery/sh...e&direction=ASC&imageuser=27183&cutoffdate=-1

 

[PaLVBusa]

Im good with taking the fairing off but everything else is exactly what i was looking for.

Your awesome III...

 

[busa186]

might be only a little bit, but I change the oil on the rear stand and then took the bike off and a little more oil came out. Plus I like to pour some oil trough the filler with the plug out, untill the oil comes out clear, I dont think it does anything but give me a piece of mind.

 

[Sous]

I used to remove the filter with a strap wrench, but that became a pain in the rear. I started getting the K&N filters with the nut welded on the end and will never look back. I use a ratchet wrench to tighten/loosen the filter now without even having to take the fairing off. It is not very comfortable for a few minutes, but there is enough room to wiggle in there with a wrench and then loosen/tighten the filter by hand.

Just be careful with the pan bolt. I use a torque wrench to 14 ft lbs and some think that is a bit overkill, but I have piece of mind that I will not strip the pan.

Also, a crush washer is probably good for a while, I keep mine on the bolt for about 5 changes.

 

[III]

See responses above...

A few other things to note:
- Watch out for overtightening or STRIPPING the oil pan bolt when you put it back in. If you have a torque wrench, I'm pretty sure it's 23 ft/lbs. Basically, get it as tight as you can with your fingers, then a 1/4 of a turn with the wrench. Very common mistake the first time people change their own oil.
- Make sure when taking off the old oil filter that the old o-ring isn't still stuck to the motor. Sometimes if it's been awhile, that old ring stays adhered, so when you go to put the new one on, there's a double ring, no seal and oil will leak when it starts moving. Just double check to make sure it came off with old filter.
- Use Blanca's fairing removal tutorial if it's your first time. It's a sticky in GEN II info.
- Make sure to add oil on level ground, NOT ON THE STAND. You'll end up putting to much in and have to drain some out once you take it off the stand and see the oil window is over full.
- Aftermarket exhaust may require some removal of connecting hoses, etc.

Here's a link to my photos that I took when I did my first oil change. I covered the headers and pipes with foil to keep the oil off them when it drains. 1st Service - Hayabusa Owners Group Gallery

Oil bolt is 16.5 ft/lbs, 23Ng

 

[2006busa]

ive been keeping an eye out for a factory oil pan for cheap on ebay just in case this happens to me somehow. at least ill have a replacement on hand

 

[Sous]

ive been keeping an eye out for a factory oil pan for cheap on ebay just in case this happens to me somehow. at least ill have a replacement on hand

If you can get one dirt cheap, so be it. But, if you torque the pan bolt down to 14 ft lbs which is 2.5 lbs less than recommended but still more than enough to hold the fluid, you will be fine. I have been doing this since the first oil change and replace the crush washer about every 5 times or when it is going completely flat.

 

[PaLVBusa]

Oil change went beautifully. No issues thanks to all of you guys. :thumbs:
Glad i switched to synthetic, big difference is the feel and shifting of bike

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

 

[skydivr]

Oil change went beautifully. No issues thanks to all of you guys. :thumbs:
Glad i switched to synthetic, big difference is the feel and shifting of bike

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

Your moving up! Wheel Removal and brake pad change is next!!! Congrats; wrenching on your own bike is a lot of FUN!

 

[PaLVBusa]

Haha thanks. Brakes are my next adventure but still reluctant on that one. Something about messing up the thing that keeps me from hitting a car may be out of my realm..

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

 

[mattrat]

I have been doing this since the first oil change and replace the crush washer about every 5 times or when it is going completely flat.

you can anneal the crush washers and use them dozens of times...

 

[Sous]

you can anneal the crush washers and use them dozens of times...

Right, but they are also 50 cents at the dealer. I picked up 6 of them a couple years ago and still have a few left. I just do a quick inspection of the washer and if it is starting to flatten, throw another one on there. Piece of mind is all that is for me.