Multi Stage lock up help, please!

[chunk1340]

I have added this to the 1/4 mile and GenII forum for maximum response:

I am using a MTC multi stage lock up on a stock motor. I am running 1.6 60’s launching at 7500rpm with a launch controller. Prior to fitting the lock up I ran a best of 1.47 60’ launching at around 6500 with no launch controller. I only changed to the lock up for consistency and as I will be fitting the turbo in a few weeks.
I seem unable to reduce the sixty foots with the new clutch set up. The bike will either wheelie as it is just out of the gate, or start to wheelie at approx 60 feet out. The trace on my logger show that the rpm rises to around 9,000rpm after I dump the clutch, rpm dips slightly and then rise to the limiter, drop and then rise to the limiter again before dropping and this where I believe I get real traction, bringing the front up. All of this is on full throttle.

I have messed about with more base, more/less weight on the arms etc. I have tuned a multi stage clutch before but this has me a little stumped. I believe I need more base to stop it flaring through the clutch. Any ideas?

I am also making a few chassis mods to try and stop the wheelies/wheel stands.

Pic below shows the point of "real" traction!

 

[bigfootatplay]

1. what size springs are you using??

2. How do the steels look?

3. Is it blowing thru the clutches?

4. How much weight do you have on each arm?


Try:

All stock busa springs with a 2.01" stack height and 8grams on every other arm.

 

[chunk1340]

Thanks for that. I will try it.

I will let you know what springs etc.

I have nut and bolt on each arm and additional 2 grams (one washer) on two opposite arms.

Steels are OK, I inspect them after each run and clean them.

It is blowing thru the clutch.

Thanks again.

 

[bigfootatplay]

Is it blowing thru the clutch down low or out the back??


check your stack height and see where its at thats #1... then go from there.


I'm sending a PM

 

[jspin]

if you're spinning the tire, you will never the get the clutch to work right. the older lockups are driven by wheel speed. this means if you start to spin the tire, it will accelerate the clutch lock up and most likely spin the tire. if you're completely lost on the tune up, i would suggest going to a SOFT clutch tune up that doesn't ever spin/wheelie. from there, you just have to bring it in to a point where it's does what you want consistently.

if you're used you tuning a clutch on a bar bike, you may have a hard time with it. a no-bar bike with a street tire is the worst case scenario for a lock-up. honestly, you may never be able to get the CONSISTENT 60's times that are possible with a true hand clutch.

 

[jspin]

i had an older style multi-stage on my bike and i never got it to work right with dumping the clutch. i ended up setting the clutch up with a lot of static spring pressure (for a lock-up) and rode it like a stock clutch. the lock up helped with clutch life, but didn't really make me any faster.

if i was on a slick and a good track, i could make it work.

good luck

 

[chunk1340]

Thanks for the advice. I have a soft setting at the moment and I'm working from there. Not getting too much wheelspin but when I do you are right it locks up quicker. It's trial and error from here. It's all experince. Lol.

Last bike was similar spec. Got pretty consistent with it, but not in the 1.3's like my superstreet pals. I am seriously contemplating going for a newer style lockup or slider.

 

[bigfootatplay]

I went with a slider about a year ago. Only draw back is you need someone to push you around. Try a Shink Slick, Shinko Hookup, P1 Race or equilvalent... get a good sticky tire and cut that beast loose