MTC gen2 starting point

202mphbusa

Registered
any suggestions?
I bought this thing two years ago and put it in a couple of days before Loring
(stupid) FRIED the clutch even with extra static and dynamic (on me my fault, the way I was shifting)
So I went and reinstalled it, but I still have a ton of spacers under the springs and a lot of weight on the arms
Looking for a starting point that won't fry the clutch on the first run or kill me

bike is 705lbs with me on it about 68 inches and pretty much whatever horsepower I want (standalone/Big turbo) spray off the line if need be
 
Several thoughts ....

If you bought it new, whoever sold it should give you a baseline starting point. Tunes can be very different depending on your application. For a nitrous bike I like to see 7200-7600 rpm flash, and boosted applications seem to like the 9000-9200 rpm flash.

You can contact Dustin Lee. I believe he will provide initial tune and then tell you what to change based on how the clutch performs at the track. You will definitely want to have a data log to share. I think he charges a hundred bucks or something.

Ask anybody using one with a similar application what their tune is and adjust to get what you need. I run the Hays Revolution which is a similar concept but not the same regarding spring rates and weights.
 
any suggestions?
I bought this thing two years ago and put it in a couple of days before Loring
(stupid) FRIED the clutch even with extra static and dynamic (on me my fault, the way I was shifting)
So I went and reinstalled it, but I still have a ton of spacers under the springs and a lot of weight on the arms
Looking for a starting point that won't fry the clutch on the first run or kill me

bike is 705lbs with me on it about 68 inches and pretty much whatever horsepower I want (standalone/Big turbo) spray off the line if need be
Hi. Have you talked to Eric at DAS? I did not know that you sprayed off the line. How much now do you for 1 pass? Can you get it a Loring? I do wish you would call. 508-496-3312.
 
Hi. Have you talked to Eric at DAS? I did not know that you sprayed off the line. How much now do you for 1 pass? Can you get it a Loring? I do wish you would call. 508-496-3312.
I don't spray off the line, but could I have a starting point a buddy threw to me.
50 lbs static Gotta measure but first measure installed height
also have to try arm weights and limiter settings
 
I don't spray off the line, but could I have a starting point a buddy threw to me.
50 lbs static Gotta measure but first measure installed height
also have to try arm weights and limiter settings
boyfriend.. like Isaid I have the MTC Gen 2 but with the air assist. I have no idea where to start. I will need Eris's help for sure.
 
From MTC tech support who rock
I told him I was worried and gonna launch at LOW rpm till I get a FEW passes
So please don't flame me :devil:



4k is a bit low, especially for a turbo bike. Later on you can shoot for a higher launch, but for now to get your feet wet how about 5000 RPM?
.125” total shim per static
8 grams per arm (usually just the steel nut and bolt)
(2) #9
(2) #13
(2) #18
As with any untested clutch tune up, be careful the first few times you launch it. If the clutch slips at high RPM in any gear, add a washer(1 gram) to each arm.

For future, most turbo bikes leave between 6500 and 7500 RPM, depending on total HP level. When you are ready to make that jump, let us know and we’ll give you a different baseline starting point.

Burnout should be done over 9000 RPM. Gear isn’t important to the clutch just the RPM. If you ride to and from a run in the pits, do it at idle speed only, holding the throttle open to maintain speed with put excessive heat and wear on the fibers.
 
From MTC tech support who rock
I told him I was worried and gonna launch at LOW rpm till I get a FEW passes
So please don't flame me :devil:



4k is a bit low, especially for a turbo bike. Later on you can shoot for a higher launch, but for now to get your feet wet how about 5000 RPM?
.125” total shim per static
8 grams per arm (usually just the steel nut and bolt)
(2) #9
(2) #13
(2) #18
As with any untested clutch tune up, be careful the first few times you launch it. If the clutch slips at high RPM in any gear, add a washer(1 gram) to each arm.

For future, most turbo bikes leave between 6500 and 7500 RPM, depending on total HP level. When you are ready to make that jump, let us know and we’ll give you a different baseline starting point.

Burnout should be done over 9000 RPM. Gear isn’t important to the clutch just the RPM. If you ride to and from a run in the pits, do it at idle speed only, holding the throttle open to maintain speed with put excessive heat and wear on the fibers.
Here's what I would do if I was at the track tuning it for you. I'm down to 1.25 60' so it's working for me.
For a starting point for you:
Stack height: 1.717"
2 #15
2 #18
2 #21
2 washers on each arm to start with
Launch at 6900. This should allow it to flash yp to 9k RPM
3 statics with no washers. You could run 6, but it will shock the tire harder.

This isn't what's in mine currently, but it's a really good starting point.

You need to leave higher RPM as the clutch needs to work. Throw your first one with just spring pressure on the turbo to see how it feels. One thing to remember, these clutches like power out of the hole to work properly. It's gonna pull like crazy, but don't get out of it unless it wheelies. That's how you burn plates and fibers up.

Yes, burnout over 10k RPM.
 
Here's what I would do if I was at the track tuning it for you. I'm down to 1.25 60' so it's working for me.
For a starting point for you:
Stack height: 1.717"
2 #15
2 #18
2 #21
2 washers on each arm to start with
Launch at 6900. This should allow it to flash yp to 9k RPM
3 statics with no washers. You could run 6, but it will shock the tire harder.

This isn't what's in mine currently, but it's a really good starting point.

You need to leave higher RPM as the clutch needs to work. Throw your first one with just spring pressure on the turbo to see how it feels. One thing to remember, these clutches like power out of the hole to work properly. It's gonna pull like crazy, but don't get out of it unless it wheelies. That's how you burn plates and fibers up.

Yes, burnout over 10k RPM.
See here in lies the problem

EVERY FIBER IN MY BEING IS SCARED TO THROW AWAY THE CLUTCH LEVER WOT ON A TWO STEP


Freaks me out
218 at Loring with a blown rear shock a bump throws both feet off the pegs
I try from the mile to just before 1.5 to just pull my legs up dangling behind at 210+ no problem

throw away the clutch lever for the first time .......Butter flies
 
First pass you can throw the lever at half throttle on the two step then roll into it. I don’t mean take the 60 to roll in, but definitely less than half a second. Next pass 3/4 throttle and roll it open faster. Third pass full throttle on the two step. If you are flashing to 9k and making much power you will find you need to pull the plates EVERY pass, then cool, oil, and reassemble.
 
Okay so I went to go change the clutch to a starting point

MTC says
2 #9 springs
2 #13
2 #18

So #13 springs are marked 1.192
#18 are marked 1.321

I do not have #9 in my tuning kit

Springs that were OEM are 1.130 and 1.074 Can someone tell me their weights?
I asked MTC but the answer is in my work E-mail and I an't working this weekend HEHEHEHE
I went with the 1.074 but can swap easy enough
 
ones from the factory are #9 and #11
So the 1.074 length that I left in was the correct #9
and the #11 is the 1.130 length ones

Gonna make a card with the size/lengths to keep in the tuning kit

Next problem is the bolts weight 7.4 grams
AND the washers vary about .05 of a gram
 
log from a Street "Hardish launch"
clutch log.png
 
yes I was
Baby steps man I wasn't sure if actually hooking with 16x40 on gate spring pressure was gonna loop me
Other tire and wheel spin far easier

BTW shorts Tee shirt sneakers and a helmet so I was being easy
HOPE to go Wens to do some test hits? at local track
 
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