Morimoto Mini D2s Retrofit - Mini How-to





#1
There's not too much information on the site for retrofits, so figured I'd add a thread and explain a few things I learned along the way. Hopefully this will help someone down the road considering a retrofit. I would recommend EVERYONE running PnP HIDs to do this upgrade. It's UNREAL how much more light you get, words can't explain how awesome it truly it. I wished I'd done this years ago. It's not bad for a couple hours everyday after work for a few days.

The end goal was to have a somewhat stock-like appearance while gaining ALOT of usable light. I ordered everything from TRS and got their mini D2S single motorcycle H7 kit. It comes with EVERYTHING you will need to accomplish the build. At this point I'd like to state, make sure you have LOTS of time and patience to fit the D2S. If you have only 1 or none of those, I'd recommend the mini H1 kit. Basically you remove the stock bulb and this projector slides through the opening and you're done. The only downside to the mini H1 is it's a 2.5" projector (vs D2S 3") and not quite as good beam. If I was to do it over again, I'd do the mini H1.

Firs thing is once on stands, turn your low beam on and mark on the wall in front where it’s at. You will use this later when aligning the projector. Assuming you have the light off the bike, the first thing is to get it apart. Remove the 6 rubber grommets along the outer edges and preheat your oven to 200deg and bake it for 9min. Once done, with gloves and a big screw driver, slowly work your way around the housing. It comes off fairly easily, I expected a little more fight out of it.

Once apart and cooled down, start disassembly. Reflector/projector is first thing to get off, just back off the 3-10mm adjustment bolts on the backside of housing. Once that's apart, there is a 4 screws to get the stock projector high beam off the reflector. Now with the reflector off, time to start grinding/sanding, I used a Dremel with a sanding wheel for this. You have to widen the area where the stock bulb was so the threaded part of the D2S can fit through. Then you have to cut/grind the bottom of the reflector to allow the solenoid to fit through it. As easy as all that sounds, but there's a TON of test fitting. Once you get that fitting right, reassemble the light with the D2S and make sure the projector clears the stock outside lens. Every time you pull the outside lens off again, be prepared to fight it a little. Mine didn't clear it and had to go back a few times and make more room for the D2S to sit further back. Just take your time and a little each time, don't want to get carried away even though you will be tempted. I did end up cutting out a plate to go after the rubber seal so I'd be able to snug it down evenly and flat. This may not be needed, but made me feel better and was worth the extra effort. Also don't forget to plug in your solenoid plug.

Time to install your shroud of choice, I went with the Ocular one in an effort to keep a stock look. You will have to grind this down on top and bottom to fit. Again take your time and just do a little at a time. I could have done a better job on my shroud in hindsight; if I ever pull it apart again I'll get another one and redo it.

Now that you have that all fit perfectly, go ahead and wire up the bike with the included kit. It's pretty straight forward. I mounted my ballast on top of the right air duct and zip tied it. Now install the HID bulb with the spring and end cap. Put the housing back on the upper fairing and put it on the bike. Plug in your bulb and test it. One thing about this kit is Morimoto thought it through and has a 10 second delay before the bulb ignites. It gives your bike time to start before it kicks on. With the HID warmed up, be prepared to be impressed! You'll want to adjust the projector so it's oriented perfectly horizontal. Now is the time to adjust the height with the OEM 10mm bolts to match the tape you put on your wall in the beginning. Take the upper fairing back off and remove the headlight and tight up the projector nut so it's completely snugged down.


Wipe everything down to get all finger prints off lenses and all dust out of it. Repeat baking the headlight and reattach the outside lens. Secure it with clamps while it cools. Some people scrape all the OEM retro butyl rubber off and put new stuff on. I bought some and planned on doing that, but I am pretty confident that there was enough OEM stuff on there that I could reseal it without issue.

SIDE NOTES:
- I already had my headlights wired independently of each other (high beam is normal, flip the high beam switch and it turns off and HID comes on) so I didn’t wire the solenoid up. I didn’t feel like figuring out how I wired up the 2 relays 6yrs ago. I wanted the bike back together so I could ride with all this warm weather we’ve been having. I fully intend to go back and rewire it so my OEM projector will be my DRL and my D2S will becoming my high/low beam.

- I bought the Morimoto XSB demon eyes. I was hoping to install it on both the D2S and OEM projector. I had plans on using one to light up the OEM high beam projector when my D2S was on, but in the end I didn’t end up wanting to modify that projector. I could have easily used it on the D2S, but didn’t really care for a random switch on the bike for just that.

- I have been running a 30w 3000K LED for my DRL. Decided to change it up and try a cheap orange bulb. Not impressed with it, though looks cool on a bike. It'll be swapped when I make final adjustments on the height alignment.

- I ended up painting my reflector/shroud a couple times. The Krylon aluminum paint was too bright, basic primer gray was too dull. I ended up having some cheap Wal-Mart “silver aluminum” paint that wasn’t as bright as the Krylon and used it along with 3 coats of clear. I went with something that bright because 6yrs ago when I was building the bike, I had the outside headlight lens slightly tinted to match the signals. It's not a perfect match IMO, but it's closer than I expected.

- While it was definitely worth the extra effort to fit the D2S 3” projector, if I did it all over again I think I’d go with just the mini H1.

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You can see here how the OEM high beam lens is defective.... Good job Suzuki!
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#6
I can't believe we can't edit our own posts!

Disregard the 3rd picture down, false advertising, lol. That opening ended up being alot bigger as you can see a few pictures below that one. I took that one before I realized the projector needed to go further back in the reflector.
 

mabupa

Registered
#7
Nice right up. I also completed this job at the end of last year. I decided to go with 2 mini H1 kits. I was shocked when I turned them on and rode to the wood and hit the high beam switch. I went this route because I liked the idea of having 2 low beams and 2 highs. I also could have done a better job with my shroud but, I'm pretty happy overall.
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#8
Nice right up. I also completed this job at the end of last year. I decided to go with 2 mini H1 kits. I was shocked when I turned them on and rode to the wood and hit the high beam switch. I went this route because I liked the idea of having 2 low beams and 2 highs. I also could have done a better job with my shroud but, I'm pretty happy overall.
Yep, if I had to do it all over mini H1's for sure. It'd made the retrofit alot easier. Have any pics of your install? I'm curious on the mini H1 high beam mounting. Also how do you have it wired? 2 lows and 2 highs?
 

mabupa

Registered
#9
Yep, if I had to do it all over mini H1's for sure. It'd made the retrofit alot easier. Have any pics of your install? I'm curious on the mini H1 high beam mounting. Also how do you have it wired? 2 lows and 2 highs?
Unfortunately I lost the pics when I switched phones but, to answer your questions, the install was a lot easier than I thought and I bought their relay harness that feeds both projectors from the battery and wired them to the OEM connectors. All the OEM wiring harness does is activate the relay. I did it this way because I felt it wasn't smart to load those thing OEM wires. When I start the bike I have 2 low beams, hit the high beam or flash to pass button and both shutters move out of the way and I blast that dumb cager that didn't see me with both high beams. Lol!! They tend to get out of the way pretty quick.
 
#10
Unfortunately I lost the pics when I switched phones but, to answer your questions, the install was a lot easier than I thought and I bought their relay harness that feeds both projectors from the battery and wired them to the OEM connectors. All the OEM wiring harness does is activate the relay. I did it this way because I felt it wasn't smart to load those thing OEM wires. When I start the bike I have 2 low beams, hit the high beam or flash to pass button and both shutters move out of the way and I blast that dumb cager that didn't see me with both high beams. Lol!! They tend to get out of the way pretty quick.
Mine wasn't as easy as I hoped, but I expected it wouldn't be due to fitting a larger projector. I agree, no way would I hook up an HID anything without a Morimoto wiring harness or a relay. Sounds like the wiring harness you have is perfect and can use both lights as high and lows!

I'm curious about the high beam mounting. How did the you mount the high beam? I'm already considering going back in there and adding a mini H1.
 
#11
Mine wasn't as easy as I hoped, but I expected it wouldn't be due to fitting a larger projector. I agree, no way would I hook up an HID anything without a Morimoto wiring harness or a relay. Sounds like the wiring harness you have is perfect and can use both lights as high and lows!

I'm curious about the high beam mounting. How did the you mount the high beam? I'm already considering going back in there and adding a mini H1.
High beam took some cutting and patience. Take the H1 and cut all 4 corner tabs(it has holes in the corners for mounting it with screws if possible. Next, remove the 4 screws that secure the OEM projector to the back of the OEM shroud/ frame and disassemble the projector(you are using the "bowl"). The idea is to fit the h1 inside the OEM "bowl" and secure from the back with the supplied rubber washer and nut. After that, is just a matter of trimming and test fitting until it falls back together. After fitting and securing the H1 inside the OEM "bowl", you will bolt it to the OEM shroud/frame. (This took some serious trimming of the metal frame). After you reassemble, you'll probably notice a gap between the h1 lense and OEM shroud, I ended up using the supplied plastic ring that slides over the H1 lense to increase the diameter (OEM projector is a little larger diameter than h1)and fill the gap. It's kind of hard to explain and English is not my first language. Sorry.

Let me know if you decide to tackle that project and have questions.
 
#12
High beam took some cutting and patience. Take the H1 and cut all 4 corner tabs(it has holes in the corners for mounting it with screws if possible. Next, remove the 4 screws that secure the OEM projector to the back of the OEM shroud/ frame and disassemble the projector(you are using the "bowl"). The idea is to fit the h1 inside the OEM "bowl" and secure from the back with the supplied rubber washer and nut. After that, is just a matter of trimming and test fitting until it falls back together. After fitting and securing the H1 inside the OEM "bowl", you will bolt it to the OEM shroud/frame. (This took some serious trimming of the metal frame. After you reassemble, you'll probably notice a gap between the h1 lense and OEM shroud, I ended up using the supplied plastic ring that slides over the H1 lense to increase the diameter (OEM projector is a little larger diameter than h1)and fill the gap. It's kind of hard to explain and English is not my first language. Sorry.

Let me know if you decide to tackle that project and have questions.
I definitely follow what your saying. The only part that I don't understand is after you fit it in the bowl properly, you have to secure it to the OEM frame/shroud. I assume using the 4 ears of the H1 to secure it or are you talking about just using the big rubber washer and nut?

After I get a few projects out of the way, I really would like to either add a mini H1 to mine or get another headlight and repeat your retrofit with 2 mini H1's. I (with the help of you explaining the lower projector install) have talked myself into doing another retrofit in a couple months. :)
 
#13
Remember that you are cutting the ears off on the H1 so that you can push it in the bowl deep enough to secure it with the rubber washer and nut from the back. this will be the only thing securing the H1 to the bowl. you will use the 4 factory bolts to secure the bowl back to the frame like it was from the factory(but with the H1 already secured inside by previous step). I have to say, I really enjoyed the project and the results even more but, I love doing these kind of things.
 
#15
I follow you now perfectly! Thanks for taking the time to explain it to me, now I really want to go back in it, haha
Hahahh! I'm glad you posted. I was considering going back and upgrading to two ds2 but, you scared me now. I've seen it done but, read that is better make brackets to mount them. I think I'll just be happy with my H1 pair.
 
#16
Hahahh! I'm glad you posted. I was considering going back and upgrading to two ds2 but, you scared me now. I've seen it done but, read that is better make brackets to mount them. I think I'll just be happy with my H1 pair.
Glad I could help! I feel confident no bracket would be needed for the low beam, but for the high beam you definitely will need one. I want to say TRS sells generic brackets maybe? Someone on here told me the issue with the D2S on low beam is the solenoid being so low in housing. He used FX-R projectors I believe, it was on another retrofit thread.

I think if you do it, I'd get another light and start over since you know your H1's work fine. You can at least ride while messing with the new one plus when you do swap you can sell your old setup. Also if you got the kit again you could leave your wiring and give the new owner the new wiring part is it's all generic. That being said, I'm already planning to do the same but go with a dual mini H1 setup and instead of getting my lense smoked again I'll just get the reflectors painted the charcoal color to match my bike. ... I've already talked to a guy to paint them, lol.
 
#17
Glad I could help! I feel confident no bracket would be needed for the low beam, but for the high beam you definitely will need one. I want to say TRS sells generic brackets maybe? Someone on here told me the issue with the D2S on low beam is the solenoid being so low in housing. He used FX-R projectors I believe, it was on another retrofit thread.

I think if you do it, I'd get another light and start over since you know your H1's work fine. You can at least ride while messing with the new one plus when you do swap you can sell your old setup. Also if you got the kit again you could leave your wiring and give the new owner the new wiring part is it's all generic. That being said, I'm already planning to do the same but go with a dual mini H1 setup and instead of getting my lense smoked again I'll just get the reflectors painted the charcoal color to match my bike. ... I've already talked to a guy to paint them, lol.
Ok. Sounds like you have a plan already. Lol !
Definitely post pics whe you complete it.
 

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