More Shifting Help.




mike1180

Banned
Basically, visually it appears to have smaller and more elongated lobes, and a heavier spring for the detent arm. (Original on left, Mod on right)
The shifting is now very firm and precise. It moves into gear much faster and with more force (it even sounds louder as it clunks in).
The best thing is that I just have to flick the shift lever and it jumps all the way into gear.
On upshifts, I used to push the shift lever all the way to make sure it got into gear.
Now it does most of the work itself.
A real joy to shift, especially coupled with my extended shift lever.
My tranny should last a long time now.
It was about a 2 hour job to put in and had a couple of twists, but still acceptable considering the results.
Highly recommended"¦.

These guys seemed to have the best price: http://stores.ebay.com/Worldwide-motorcycle-equipment

If anyone would like some pictures and text regarding the install, speak up and I will post some.

Mike A

Both.JPG
 

mike1180

Banned
Absolutely!
Have to take off the sprocket, kickstand, clutch slave support, waterpump and shifter housing, but very easy job.
2 hours or so.
 

ToXSicK RoCKeT

Registered
Basically, visually it appears to have smaller and more elongated lobes, and a heavier spring for the detent arm. (Original on left, Mod on right)
The shifting is now very firm and precise. It moves into gear much faster and with more force (it even sounds louder as it clunks in).
The best thing is that I just have to flick the shift lever and it jumps all the way into gear.
On upshifts, I used to push the shift lever all the way to make sure it got into gear.
Now it does most of the work itself.
A real joy to shift, especially coupled with my extended shift lever.
My tranny should last a long time now.
It was about a 2 hour job to put in and had a couple of twists, but still acceptable considering the results.
Highly recommended"¦.

These guys seemed to have the best price:  http://stores.ebay.com/Worldwide-motorcycle-equipment

If anyone would like some pictures and text regarding the install, speak up and I will post some.

Mike A
SOUNDS AWSOME, i would be interested in seeing install pic's/tutorial
please.gif
THX
 

mike1180

Banned
First it may help to see how this thing works.
Factory Pro has a small video how an set up o works on an Aprilla.
It is very similar to ours and will help a lot to see what it is supposed to do.
Go to www.factorypro.com
Go to The 5th button from the top on the left side "shift stars"￾
Go to "Evo shift star kits"￾ (blue in the first box)
Go ½ way down the page and the movie is the top picture of the 2 pictures "Aprilla"￾


I will spread out my experience installing this product, over 10 posts.
I figure the pics will stay here forever this way?
1. Put the transmission in neutral. Drain the oil, remove left fairing, coolant overflow, kickstand assembly (2 large bolts), clutch slave mount, shifter linkage, this now exposes the sprocket, waterpump and shifter housing.
Remove the 2 bolts holding the waterpump. (it just pulls out when these 2 (red) are removed) There is a slot on the back of the waterpump shaft that has to be lined up when re-installing so look at it now. Plug the hole with a cloth or towel. (Optional: Remove 2 hose clamps and hoses then rad fluid drains. This gives a lot more room, but it is possible to tie up the pump out of the way, with the hose on and fluid still intact.) I drained it, as I like to change the fluids often and this was a good excuse.

1.JPG
 

mike1180

Banned
2. Remove sprocket (speed sensor allen bolt, and large nut) and tie up chain (or put out of the way). I also cleaned off all of the old chain lube"¦YUK
Remove the 5 bolts holding on the shifter housing. There is one bolt (a real ba$tard) that is hard to get (red arrow).

2.JPG
 

mike1180

Banned
4. I took this last bolt and cut a couple of cross slots in it with a dremel, so I could get it back in with a slot screwdriver and then tighten with the wrench. It is hard to get back in and that saved a lot of time.

4.JPG
 

mike1180

Banned
5. Pull the shifter housing off towards you. (leave the shaft there so you can see how it will go back on) You have to turn it 90 degrees or so as it comes off, to clear the frame. Also have to jiggle it a bit for that 1 troublesome bolt to dislodge itself. Here is a pic with the shaft still in the housing (inside view). Now that you have studied it, pull off the shaft. (I took both off together and it wasn't as clear at first how they went back on)

5.JPG
 

mike1180

Banned
7. Remove the old star and the old detent arm and spring and replace with the new ones from the kit. (They are simple and can only go on one way. The star has a small offset hole and that lines up with a pin on the end of the shifter fork hub). Reinstall the allen screw on the star. Replace new gasket (my old gasket looked real good so I left it on and re-used it. No leaks!)

7.JPG
 

mike1180

Banned
8. Remove the shift assembly shaft from the housing cover (if still there) and install it on the engine, and be sure to place the oval opening over the pins on the star (sorry my pic was too blurry, here is one from the manual).

8.JPG
 

mike1180

Banned
10. Goes over this pin - one arm of spring on each side of the pin. (Also see the bottom pic of #8.)
Slide the shifter housing back over the shifter shaft and install the 5 bolts.
Check and see if it shifts nicely (put the shifter lever on temporarily) before you put the waterpump and sprocket etc back on.
Now all goes back together.

TIP: I always put a dab of grease on all the oil seals or o-rings when putting them back together.

10.JPG
 

mike1180

Banned
Thanks man.
You guys have all "paid it forward" to me with all of the info that I have gotten from this forum.
Hope I can pay back just a little.

Mike A
 



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