Modding the new Pashnit Busa
- Thread starter pashnit
- Start date
Been putting off swapping out the stock brake lines.
All three Busa's I've owned had terrible stock brakes IMO. Okay for day to day riding yes. The issue with these bikes are after about 15 minutes of non-stop twisties, the fluid gets hot and you start to lose braking effectiveness.
But Cali has endless non-stop twisty roads.
And swapping the rubber lines to stainless steel solves that issue instantly and is one of the most dramatic low-cost mods you can do to your bike.
All three Busa's I've owned had terrible stock brakes IMO. Okay for day to day riding yes. The issue with these bikes are after about 15 minutes of non-stop twisties, the fluid gets hot and you start to lose braking effectiveness.
But Cali has endless non-stop twisty roads.
And swapping the rubber lines to stainless steel solves that issue instantly and is one of the most dramatic low-cost mods you can do to your bike.
And on the Busa, coupled with the Extreme Pro Pads. These pads are expensive but if you want that extra bite, these pads are amazing.
Tossing your stock lines isn't that hard of a job. But it's messy and requires swapping out the fluid and bleeding the brakes which can be a multi-day job.
When I was a kid, I can remember helping my dad bleed the brakes on our '72 Ford Pickup. "push the pedal" he would say and I remember that sensation of no resistance to the brake pedal while he bled them. But I learned about brakes.
I have sold hundreds of brake line kits as a Galfer Dealer, and many kits to members here.
And I'm still an ardent believer in tossing your stock rubber lines. Many new bikes these days don't even come with rubber lines anymore.
On the Hayabusa, it is a simple swap job. Remove old line, and replace it with the new lines from the kit. Many of us do Front/rear/clutch kits to make them all match. While there's likely not any real performance benefit with having a braided clutch line, my OCD wants that 'complete kit'.
Rear line is easiest so I'll do that first. Unbolt & replace, right?
Not quite. I didn't realize the two banjos bolts are different thread pitches. One is fine thread, other is coarse. Nuts.
Tossing your stock lines isn't that hard of a job. But it's messy and requires swapping out the fluid and bleeding the brakes which can be a multi-day job.
When I was a kid, I can remember helping my dad bleed the brakes on our '72 Ford Pickup. "push the pedal" he would say and I remember that sensation of no resistance to the brake pedal while he bled them. But I learned about brakes.
I have sold hundreds of brake line kits as a Galfer Dealer, and many kits to members here.
And I'm still an ardent believer in tossing your stock rubber lines. Many new bikes these days don't even come with rubber lines anymore.
On the Hayabusa, it is a simple swap job. Remove old line, and replace it with the new lines from the kit. Many of us do Front/rear/clutch kits to make them all match. While there's likely not any real performance benefit with having a braided clutch line, my OCD wants that 'complete kit'.
Rear line is easiest so I'll do that first. Unbolt & replace, right?
Not quite. I didn't realize the two banjos bolts are different thread pitches. One is fine thread, other is coarse. Nuts.
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Once I figured that out, was a simple case of getting the line aligned. Aftermarket kits often don't match the stock lines exactly. But they do work and just remember to use two banjo washers on each side of the banjo fitting. Why they call them banjo fittings, I have no idea, maybe the guy that invented these hollow bolts played banjos. Plus you have to remove the right foot peg bracket to access the rear master cylinder. Line should be routed on the inside of the swingarm if you want to keep the original patch of the stock line.
The rear was relatively simple, but as I started fiddling with the front kit, realized I really needed to take the nose off. Gen-II fairings suck. The Gen-I was so much easier. You can't reach the bracket bolt on the fork brace without taking the nose off.
Plus aftermarket kits use a double banjo bolts up top and route two single lines downward - one left, one right. Most stock lines are single right down to right caliper and then a horseshoe line to the other caliper up and over the rear of the caliper. Toss that setup. Then try to route the lines properly. Banjo fittings are pre-bent and lines are labelled left and right.
Ended up taking the nose off.
Plus aftermarket kits use a double banjo bolts up top and route two single lines downward - one left, one right. Most stock lines are single right down to right caliper and then a horseshoe line to the other caliper up and over the rear of the caliper. Toss that setup. Then try to route the lines properly. Banjo fittings are pre-bent and lines are labelled left and right.
Ended up taking the nose off.
Tenderfoot
Registered
Good to know were to get my brake/clutch lines from!
The flexible RAM arms I built with parts from ExpressMounts.com which is the retail site for RAM.
Lots & lots of experimentation on the previous 08 Busa & the '00 Busa. Some things worked. Some did not.
RAM balls even on the license plate bracket
On the end of the Throttlmeister bar end (yes, this actually worked)
Lots & lots of experimentation on the previous 08 Busa & the '00 Busa. Some things worked. Some did not.
RAM balls even on the license plate bracket
On the end of the Throttlmeister bar end (yes, this actually worked)
After several years of playing one of the tour participants who was into RC cars built me a homemade GoPro Gimbal. The bike leans and the camera stays level.
No, this didn't work. Arm is too long. A second arm is needed.
But you can quickly see the possibilities are endless with a series of varying length arms and mounting points.
No, this didn't work. Arm is too long. A second arm is needed.
But you can quickly see the possibilities are endless with a series of varying length arms and mounting points.
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