Mickey Thompson MCR2

Pinky Winky

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Im looking into running a M/T MCR2 rear to maximize my traction, but Ive heard about the tire having a problem with "splitting". I heard that they develop a slice across the tire but that it has been fixed. Anyone know anything about this?

Thanks
 
Im looking into running a M/T MCR2 rear to maximize my traction, but Ive heard about the tire having a problem with "splitting". I heard that they develop a slice across the tire but that it has been fixed. Anyone know anything about this?

Thanks

The guys that were having issues are turbo bikes running 400+ HP.

I ran them for almost two years without any problems. Don't plan on running it on the street.

I'd recommend other fixes to your bike than the MCR2.
 
Other fixes? and why no street?

Taking a couple of inches of stretch out will help. Also I’m guessing you are still running the stock shock and spring. When adding that much length to the swingarm the ratio changes. It needs more spring , more compression, and rebound valving. In my opinion there is not enough capabilities with the stock shock to re-valve it for drag racing with that much of a stretch.
The MCR2 has a flatter crown than a motorcycle tire should. In turns it will have to roll on the edge. The rain grooves are too shallow and there is not enough tread thickness. It might make 200 miles on the street. Yes it is DOT approved, but only to meet the rules to allow it in street class. With very minimal burnouts, I have got over 50 passes on one with a stock wheelbase stock motor bike. The average guys using them get no more than 10-15 passes . Some are in the 2-5 range.
They are over $200 each now. I really think in your case you are trying to fix a real traction problem by placing a very high dollar consumable band-aid on it.
I might still have one on the shelf with a few passes left on it if you want to try one.
 
Im running at around 5 out on the stretch now and on the rear shock Ive compressed it 7 turns on the ring. I cant remeber what Im at on the rebound but I can check. I changed back to my 16/44 setup and couldnt get a solid hook until the end of second. Ive run the 17/44 gears and the same thing. What about running the shinko ultra soft? I need a new front tire so I was going to put a qualifier up front but I dont know how well the rear would hook using a qualifier. If this was my old mustang then I would know what to do but Im still getting my feet wet with racing bikes. So thank you for all your help.
 
I've hooked mine up pretty good with my Pilot Power street tire @ 2" over....

The U-Soft is a pretty good choice, but it won't fix shock issues...
 
mcr2 will last you 25-30 miles on regular pavement riding 2 much heat melts them.Don't ask me how I know. :rofl:
 
OK so the M/T is out but I was told to stiffin the spring compression and go soft on the rebound. Was I told wrong?
 
OK so the M/T is out but I was told to stiffin the spring compression and go soft on the rebound. Was I told wrong?

There is a difference between stiffening the spring vs changing the preload on it.

Stiffening the spring involves changing the spring with one that has a heavier spring rate. Changing the preload changes the ride height of the bike.
 
So if im 160 geared up what spring rate should I go with the calculator on Racetechs site says to stay with the stock spring but I dont think that is for drag racing. Id like to go with a solid strut but then I cant ride it on the street. To much work to swap. And also how do you get a wheelbase measurement on a bike? Then I could have better data to work with.
 
So if im 160 geared up what spring rate should I go with the calculator on Racetechs site says to stay with the stock spring but I dont think that is for drag racing. Id like to go with a solid strut but then I cant ride it on the street. To much work to swap. And also how do you get a wheelbase measurement on a bike? Then I could have better data to work with.

Wheelbase is measured from the center of the front axle to the center of the rear. Stock is about 88.5

A solid strut is going to cause way more problems than it will solve.

The problem you run into when you stretch the bike is we usually lengthen the rear swingarm. With a stock mono-shock system …look at the pivot points where it hooks up. Now add 6 inches to the swingarm. We didn’t move the shock. The leverage the rear tire has on the bike under acceleration now changes.

Think of a See-Saw when you were a kid… what happens when you move the pivot point away from your side. It gets easier for you to control. You can even support a heavier kid with your lighter weight. You effectively soften the spring rate and reduce the ability of the shock to control the movement.
Also when you lengthen the bike look where the rider weight center is, you are moving the weight forward on the bike. If you scale it you can see how many pounds of bike and rider moved to the front of the bike from the rear. We usually lengthen the bike to prevent wheelies, at the same time it also affects weight transfer to the rear we were gaining as the front lifts.

The data you are getting from race techs site won’t help you much because you are no longer working with a stock swing arm.

Further if you added longer links to the rear to lower it, you have changed the leverage ratio of the whole system. Then if you look a a swingarm on a stock bike at a stock height and compare it to a longer arm on a lowered bike. Look at the angle of the swing arm. When these angles change it can impact what happens when accelerating. The chain is pulling the top of the sprocket… what kind of effect does this have? The angle of the rear swingarm will have some influence on this.

The internal construction of the stock shock severely limits what can be done for drag racing. But… buying a Penske or Ohlin’s is out of the budget from the most of us. Even if you buy one you need to make sure you get some good support with it so that it works with your application. I’ve got 3-4 inch shorter bike, 30 more hp, and 70 more lbs. What works for me is not going to work for you. Getting someone to fix your stock shock could help. Then again… a guy needs to determine if he needs that much stretch.
 
Ok I think Im following you on this. So for right now until I can do some shock work would it benefit me to keep pulling links out of the chain until I start to wheelie?And the setup I have is 2" drop on the front and 4" lower dog bones but with the spring compressed 7 turns thats makes it about a 3" drop in the rear from what I can tell.
 
I got mine from Greg at Hyperbike. Which is one of sponsors. If you call Greg and give him all of your info he will special order the correct spring. I was bottoming out on my 7" over swingarm and he took care of it. His # is 301-473-9191. Greg is great to deal with also. I live about an hour from his shop. Nice people.

Someone last summer gave me this info Have yet to use it though I need too...
 
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