Maximum Safe Amp draw


#1
What is the maximum safe electrical load of the BUSA referring to electric gear such as live support systems? Anybody ever look into this issue?
I also live in a cooler fall winter spring climate and after looking at the topic about electric gear I thought about this. The reason is that I have an old GL1200 '85 wing in CONUS storage. Those bikes had the reputation for getting hot under the collar and melting the main electrical (bus) unions when loaded with accessories such as running lights (christmas lights). You've seen them, they look like a seizure-triggering on road UFO.
Obviously, none of us, (right guys?) will ever do something to emulate goldwing christmas day floats. However, we do like to ride in cooler climates and I wonder if anyone has had an electrical system failure on their Hayabusa. Moreover, whether or not the failure could have be attributed to the fact that they use excess electrical accessories...
 

DaCol.

D' Colonel
Donating Member
#2
I don't know about the Busa yet, but it's the draw at idle or slow speeds that seems to cause the problems (if there is a problem) ! Put a amp meter on and if it goes to 12.5 or below, start shutting things down. I have a lot of BMW LD rider friends that run enough electrical to run a 26,000 pop city
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. And I notice (and have been told by them) that at slow speeds and idling through towns they just turn things off that they don't need and then turn them back up as they leave town as they go up in the revs.
I know this isn't an answer to your question, but it's something  
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#3
It would be my approach also. I think that I would probably lose under-hump storage space to add a secondary battery as well as running a secondary accessory-only fuse panel. That ought to prevent any probs... Obviously this would be for long distance travel using various external storage methods.
 

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