Looking for polishing advice..

Quicker Gixxer

Registered
I've got a McIntosh aluminum swingarm I want to polish..I'm curious what the best way to do it is that will give a longer lasting finish. I checked out a Youtube video on the subject but was told that method doesn't last long. Thanks...
 
no method last long. its extremely labor intensive and requires constant maintenance. Only thing i an think of is polish the crap out of it then clear coat it.
 
First of all, polishing anything makes it smooth. Clear coat wont bite into smooth and will flake and peel before you even get it outta the driveway, good thinking but not gonna work out well. Closer to the point, make it smooth before you polish it at all. its aluminum so keep in mind its a very soft malleable metal. get some real heavy grit polish and start out with that on the ruff spots. this will not make it shiny, remember that. you are going for smoother that is all. step up to a lighter medium corse grit and do the same thing. go to a finer girt finishing compound and go for shiny. it is a VERY labour intensive process requiring patience and skills to do it properly.

don't be scared of it and it you have the time to spend try out a few different compound on a test sheet of aluminum first so you don't damage your swing arm, more importantly you don't get half way done a give up making it look even worse then when you started.
 
I started with my chain guard and it came out ok....but I learned a few things and the swingarm will come out even better. I started with 1500 grit wet sand and moved to 2000 grit. I think I'll drop down and start with 800-1000. I'm also gonna ditch the drill for buffing and get something more suited to the job...more speed. I also got some Mother's Mag / Aluminum polish to finish up... I'll post some pics when it's all done. Thanks..
 
if you do drop to an 800 grit paper watch out for clogged pores, with such a soft metal the paper will clog up and you can gouge the swing arm pretty easy. when polishing go with a red jewlers rouge and a wool buffer pad capable of around 350-425 RPM for best results, some go faster but your just throwing the compounds off the wheel if you do
 
I actually have a block of the red..it was in the kit I bought. Should I use that before the white or after? Or go with "just" the red?
 
EASTWOOD has alot of materials for doing this. They do sell a special clear coat that supposedly works well. I bought it but haven't used it yet. I have used their different color bars with their buffing wheels with very good success.
 
Honestly, I have always done it completely by hand (except rough cast parts)

I start with 320, 400 dry, then go 600, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 wet

Then I hit it with rubbing compound, like for paint. THen finesse, and finally some flitz or other metal polish.

It usually looks like a mirror. You can screw stuff up using a machine if you are not experienced, and extremely careful.

Here is my results (the only thing NOT polished was the wheels and rearsets)

DSC02075-1.jpg
 
Honestly, I have always done it completely by hand (except rough cast parts)

I start with 320, 400 dry, then go 600, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 wet

Then I hit it with rubbing compound, like for paint. THen finesse, and finally some flitz or other metal polish.

It usually looks like a mirror. You can screw stuff up using a machine if you are not experienced, and extremely careful.

Wow...looks good. I didn't think it could be done by hand..
 
powdercoaters and a chrome like powder now that looks like polished alum. then u dont have to worry about polishing it all the time
 
I e generally only used the red rouge for cutting aluminum. works great for finishing and if done right will produce a mirror finish
 
Back
Top