lookin for some help

IS YOUR BIKE LOWERED? ARE YOU WHEELYING OUT OF THE HOLE? WHAT RPM'S DO YOU LAUNCH AT?
DO YOU HAVE A STRAP? ARE YOU SPINNING YOUR REAR TIRE? ARE YOU WIDE OPEN THROTTLE BEFORE 60FT? IS YOUR CLUTCH COMPLETELY DISENGAGED BEFORE 60FT?

THESE ARE ISSUE'S YOU NEED TO ADDRESS FIRST AND FOREMOST. ONCE YOUR 60 FOOT TIMES GET IN THE LOW 160'S THEN MOVE INTO CHANGING YOUR GEARS..
 
yes i know i need work thats why im askin thanks for all the help.yes i have the bike slammed, and have a strap for the front.i think im about 4k rpms commin off the line ,and i dont know if the clutch is all the way out. and yes some times i get some wheel spin off the line,and since i lowered it im not gettin wheelies off the line,and i cant remember if its full thottle at 60ft
 
some say your supposed to be wfo before you get to the lights...your 60s are low casue your not on it hard enough out the gate but dont get on it to hard casue things can go bad fast. I wouldnt go 16 42 out the gate id just go with the 16 cause there is a bit of difference between a 17 and 16 tooth sprocket. I'd go 1 up front over 3 in the rear casue you get a bit of a longer wheel base. Im still a rookie my self but have cut a few 6.x 1/8ths in my short career
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Like Brown said, I have gone some 6.50's with a stock bike. Mods were 16t front, 40 rear, lowered to the second hole, air shifter, strapped, and a shinko.

I don't think the airshifter helped me much though. The 16 makes it a lot easier on your clutch, though.

You need to be able to get consistent 1.7 60's to get into the sixes.
 
yes i know i need work thats why im askin thanks for all the help.yes i have the bike slammed, and have a strap for the front.i think im about 4k rpms commin off the line ,and i dont know if the clutch is all the way out. and yes some times i get some wheel spin off the line,and since i lowered it im not gettin wheelies off the line,and i cant remember if its full thottle at 60ft
do you have a routine everytime you go from staging lane to burnout box to prestage to stage..

if you develop a solid routine it will help you become more consistent, and when your more consistent you will be able to notice any small differences between good launches and bad launches this will expedite your ability to get faster and better.

don't get dissapointed the more seat time you get the better you'll become. tiger woods couldn't drive a ball over 300 yards his first year golfing.

good luck
 
well im in the 6.80s now at 114mph but my 60s still suck they have come down a little but not to much:)
my 6os r still in the low 1.80
and my 330 r in the 4.70s and 60s
 
well im in the 6.80s now at 114mph but my 60s still suck they have come down a little but not to much:)
my 6os r still in the low 1.80
and my 330 r in the 4.70s and 60s
I know how you feel ,,I have the hardest time on my busa getting a good 60 footer .. My bike is stone stock .. Dropped middle hole on the dog bones and strapped ..16/41 gears

1/8 mile

1.78 60
6.42 @ 113.9

It seems if i try to leave hard I wheelie and slide to the back of the seat and my hands refuse to let go of the clutch... So the best i can do is come off at idle... Its funny but i don't have that problem on my other bike , for some reason Busa low end torq makes me feel like i'll let go off the bars ...My other bike has a turbo and make way more power but i never feel like my hands are coming off the bars... I guess i need a tobin drag seat to hold me in the seat better...Lee..
 
Hi, Red Where were you thurs? I was looking for you at Greer. I will be Two monthes before I can return. Do you get to Ware Shoals? I will be making several Semdra Races. See you when ever. Ofcford
 
I have found that a consistant starting line sequence helped me some. I put helmet shiled down just before first staging light, at first stageing light I turn my throtle hand up so I can get full throtle easy and start straetching over the tank to get my weight as far forward as possible, I then raise RPM some and ease into last staging light, as soon as last stageing light comes on I raise RPM and ease clutch out slightly so bike almost moves forward, then look at the last yellow light ONLY and leave when you see any yellow. If it is the LED light I look at only one of th center LED's so I am focused on it. All of this may seem trivial but it has helped me to get very consistant good reaction times and has helped my 60 foot times some. Nest thing is to concentrate on full throttle as soon as possible, I want to feel the twist grip hit the stops. Have fun !!
 
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