left on the busa... didn't make it home under its own power

TommyGunn1300

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yup... first time ever.. I left on the busa and didn't make it back home under its own power. I stopped at a gas station and went in. when I came back out I turned the key and it did nothing at all. so I took the seat off and checked my connections. everything was good. I then had someone jump me off... after awhile of letting it charge up it finally fired up but AS SOON as we took the jumper cables off, she cut back off. good thing is that I was 5 miles from a concert where I had friends tailgating in the parking lot so was able to hang out while I waited on my ride.

PLEASE tell me this isn't a stater problem and its just a known problem for the busas and a very simple ground wire or cheap relay to replace.

has this happened to anybody else? I feel that something isn't right because the bike only has 16k miles on it and its an 07 model. I did install some 55wt HIDs however.

thanks in advance
 
Damn I cant remember the name of it for some stupid reason. I'd check the (rectifier) or relay.


I'd also check all your connections for the HID.
 
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I was thinking stator. I could be wrong but once the bike is started doesn't it continue to run off the stator? I really don't know I just thought the stator acted like an alternator in a car??? Good luck and let us know what you find out.
 
Check the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine on, headlights on, 5K rpm. It should be 12.5-13.7 V and increase with revs. If you see it decreasing steadily, it's a bad rectifier.

Not sure about the '07s, but the 99s had issues with stators running hot. I had mine rewound and got a high output rectifier. Runs 13.8-14.6V with everything on now.
 
Also check your connectors to your rectifier in the tail, the ground to the fuse block in the tail and the connectors from the stator. Possible that a connector burned out and lost connection. If that goes, you're running off battery only and the bike will stall when it gets below 11V.
 
I just changed my battery less than two weeks ago, it was doing the same thing! I would jump it and as soon as I took the cables off,the bike would die. I tried connecting it to my tender and it would not even charge, replacing the battery fixed the problem. Good luck bro!!
 
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It for sure sounds like you have a dead battery. This thread brings up a good question. What type of battery would you replace the old one with?
 
See what makes me think its not the battery is the fact that it dies. on a car, you can start it then take the battery out and it will still run. Shouldn't this be the case with the busa? I put a battery in a few weeks ago, but ended up getting one out of my buddies wrecked bike that had been sitting for two months. I don't have a voltage meter but I do have a test light. Also, what is the rectifier? Like a relay? The hids work fine when running so I don't think there would be a connection problem there. Could I take the battery out and have it tested at advanced auto?
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Throw a voltmeter on the battery. at rest it should be about 12v or so. When the bike is running, it should be about 13.8v. If not the latter, disconnect the rectifier and check the voltage going to it from the stator. I cant remember what it should be but the voltage should be the same across the three windings. The rectifier is the most likely choice. if you dont have the 13.8 from it, form about $50 or so you can replace it to troubleshoot the charging system.

All in all though, it sounds like a charging problem.
 
cant be the starter you jumped it and it started you said it wont hold a charge when you jumped it, so battery or rectifier. so you know a battery has 2 things to check and 1 or both could be bad. cold cranking amps if they are bad you will not be able to start the bike bike if you jump it it will run, then the run side of the battery once you have it running it holds a charge and that provides power to all the stuff on your bike, cpu lights ect...as for being able to take the battery out of a car I dought it there will be no source for the other stuff on the car cpu needs power to tell the cars engine to do what it needs to. on a older car with no cpu and stuff yes all day long untill you hit the brakes or turn on the lights ect.
 
I would check the condition of the battery first then the ground connections. I really think that is where the problem lies. At idle there isn't enough juice coming from the rectifier by itself and the bike still needs some battery power. Fully charge up the battery and then check the recitifier. The stator itself is probably fine but you can check that as well. They don't really go bad but the rectifier could have problems.
 
yea probably check the battery first regardless of age just finished helpin a friend with a zx12 deal with a similar problem went for a ride died and tried to jump it no luck bought a new battery from dealer no warr on electrical parts after a week of testing starter, relay, grounds etc (thought he fried something when he jumped it since headlights stopped working) decided to load test battery sure enough bad ended up going to batteries plus got a battery for 50$ less and 2 year free replacement warr
 
Throw a voltmeter on the battery. at rest it should be about 12v or so. When the bike is running, it should be about 13.8v. If not the latter, disconnect the rectifier and check the voltage going to it from the stator. I cant remember what it should be but the voltage should be the same across the three windings. The rectifier is the most likely choice. if you dont have the 13.8 from it, form about $50 or so you can replace it to troubleshoot the charging system.

All in all though, it sounds like a charging problem.

+1, check the voltage from rectifier, and stator. It is possible for your bike to run with a bad battery once it is jumped if the rectifier and stator are working. I have had 5 bikes and at some point in time 3 of the bikes rectifiers have burned out from getting to hot, suzuki's fault, bad design IMO. I just replaced my rectifier with a ricks motorsports rectifier, because I know how common it is for the factory rectifier to overheat and burn out. Also keep in ming that a rectifier can be working but not outting out enough of a charge to fully charge a battery. Mine was putting out just around 12 volts which was enough to sustain my battery, but once my fan kicked in, the rectifier did not have enough to charge the battery while the fan ran. When I would cut the bike of while the fan ran, the battery did not have enough of a charge to start it back up.

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/electrical-mods/130714-rectifier-ricks-motorsports.html
 
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See what makes me think its not the battery is the fact that it dies. on a car, you can start it then take the battery out and it will still run. Shouldn't this be the case with the busa? I put a battery in a few weeks ago, but ended up getting one out of my buddies wrecked bike that had been sitting for two months. I don't have a voltage meter but I do have a test light. Also, what is the rectifier? Like a relay? The hids work fine when running so I don't think there would be a connection problem there. Could I take the battery out and have it tested at advanced auto?
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If the battery has an internal short, it can draw enough current out of the system to shut everything down. Start with the battery and work your way out from there. The rectifier is more like a voltage regulator than a relay.
 
Just my two cents worth.
The rectifier is a device normally consisting of 4 diodes that changes the alternating current from the
generator/alternator to DC voltage for bike consumption and charging. The problem you are describing
sounds like a bad battery and that would be the first place to start and the easiest.
+1 on what the other Bros said.
 
sounds good.. i will borrow a voltage meter and check it out. ill try the battery first and if thats not it, ill move to the rectifier. do i need to pull the tail section off to get to it? after i fully charge the battery, if its not at 12 volts, that mean its the battery right?
 
shold be over 12v measured. To get to the rectifier it would be a whole lot easier if you pull the tail off.
 
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