Jinkster's "how to synch your busa"


Donating Member
i guess i don't have to mess with it,my bike is a 03. but i noticed when i synced with that nipple blocked i get better readings more stable reading thru all four gauges, but when i put everything back togheter and start the bike, it sounds awfull, like is missing. when i don't block the vtv nipple the readinigs are a little off is harder to get all four aligned but at the end it sound smooth and beautiful.


Donating Member
i synced my t-bodies blocking the vtv nipple and following J instructions, even though the bike sounds different, like is missing, the bike is running good , plugs looked perfect and i'm getting better gas mileage. :laugh: THANKS mike
So I need to do this to my bike, however, when I go ask for a Manometer at any parts house around here they look at me like I am an idiot ??? . WHERE CAN I GET A MANOMETER :deadhorse:


Evil Demon Busa Rider
Donating Member
Motion Pro makes a carb synch tool. They may call it a carb master or something.

Get the guages, not the mercury stick. If they even sell the merc stix any more.

Does anyone have a tutorial on how to set your idle screw? Where is it located? What is the idle RPM to idle at? I am new to Hayabusa and do not know my way around. Kudos for this illustration regarding Syncing. Does anybody have an address as to where I could purchase a digital manometer?
Re: Jinkster's "how to synch your busa"

Thanks for the info Bill. I'll be doing my TB sync. next Spring. And as stated above it's very important to sync your TB's. But I go one step further. I found that on my '08 FJR that the "Throttle Plates" were not synced. So I went ahead and closed all my air bleed screw and then proceeded to sync the throttle plates. I then adjusted the air screw and man did that bike run better.

Anothe option to consider instead of the mercury nanometer is the:
Morgan Carbtune Pro.
The Morgan Carbtune Pro uses calibrated steel rods instead of mercury and works great!
Here's a link to the Morgan Carbtune Pro:
Re: Jinkster's "how to synch your busa"

Wow! What a great tutorial. I would never had know about this.
Why wouldn't it come from the factory all balanced? Or does it and after some miles and mods,things change?
The Factory does the best job they can but as with any mass produced vehicle the factory can't spend to much time syncing TB's. So any new bike will have a little bit of difference in the TB's sync..
Here's a link to a Rider Magazine evaluation of the Morgan CarbTune Pro:

Carbtune Pro

In the article they said it worked "Flawlessly". And even with Morgan being in Belfast, Northern Ireland it only took a week for my CarbTune Pro to arrive. One note about ordering from Morgan. They don't ship to PO Boxes. Luckily for me my postal worked snagged mine before it was sent back and delivered it to my house.

And finally I checked the sync. of my Morgan CarbTune before I used it by hooking up all 4 columns one at a time to the #4 cyl.. The CarbTune sync. was dead on!


Top Gun
Re: Jinkster's "how to synch your busa"

Synching the Throttle Bodies is an important aspect of thorough tuning and maintainance and plays a large role in how well your engine performs with respect to increased power, snappier throttle response and greatly reduced engine vibrations...also....once properly synched?...your bike will exhibit easier, more consistant start-ups with a steadier and more rythmic idle quality.

L8R, Bill.
Used to do this on the old carbureted bikes, never thought about it on FI. I would assume though not all, if any factory FI bikes are in perfect sync. Were any of the throttle bodys dramatically different from another?
Again assuming, that there wasn't dramatic difference, was there a noticeable difference in idle quality or throttle response? Thanks, cool post.
Re: Jinkster's "how to synch your busa"

caught somewhere's between myth and negligable...envouge about a decade ago until the sparkplug shimming igiots noticed the benefit was nearly immeasurable.....and then that minute gain was blamed on the fact that the act of shimming the plugs actually caused less of the plug itself to take up combustion chamber space..because the plugs were now shimmed up...thereby creating just a tad more volume in the combustion chamber.

Reason for Edit: None given...|1140935013 -->
Bill, where abouts do you live, Im in southbend and was wondering how close you are to me?


Re: Jinkster's "how to synch your busa"

I just did the sync. Thanks very much to Jinkster for the write-up and nice pictures which are so much clearer than shown in the manual.

I have some points I wanted to add.

- The IAT sensor needsd to be unplugged, unscrewed from the airbox and re-plugged back when doing the sync. I know the manual says it.

- Like Jinkster pointed out, the hoses wouldn't budge and I couldn't remove them from their nipples on throttle bodies. However, the three T-connectors holding it all together come off really easy. So, I removed all three T-connectors thus leaving the short hoses going to each throttle body open on one end. All you need to connect the hoses from the gauges is to have a male-male coupler. So, for 3 out of 4 TB'S I used such couplers, and for the one of them I used one of T-connectors, and instead of connecting the IAP sensor to another nipple on the 4th throttle body, I simply plugged it into the 3d end of the one T-connector I used.

- without the airbox, the bike sounds like crap, and it's idle needs to be maintained around 3k (either hold the throttle or adjust idle, but don't forget to adjust back when the airbox is back on), otherwise my dial gauges were going crazy (the handle jumps all over the place).

- after doing all that, it's a good idea to check that your TPS adjustment is still good. Mine went off, so I had to adjust this one as well.

I've done this the first time after about 30k miles. TB's were not so badly out of sync. I noticed that #1 had less vacuum than #2 and #3 had less vacuum than #4. To correct that I had to screw in the respective screws which suggests that over time with all the vibration, the adjustment screws unscrew themselves a little bit. What's interesting that I didn't have to adjust the middle screw which controls the balance between #1 & #2 on one side and #3 & #4 on another side.

Rode the bike and I think all in all it was behaving noticeably smoother.

Also, I've had another slight issue unrelated to throttle syncing: when I just try to crack the throttle open from completely closed position, it sort of jumps a bit. I traced it back to a purely mechanical issue - there was some stickiness in the axle on which all butteflies sit. So, I sprayed good old WD-40 where the springs on the axle are and other places around the axle where moving parts rub against non-moving parts. This fixed the problem. Now initial crack of the throttle goes pretty smooth.


Re: Jinkster's "how to synch your busa"

I'd love to get this done on my Gen II but manual says it requires the SDS for some electronic doo dads. Can I be safe just to try this method? Anyone have any experience syncing a Gen II?


Re: Jinkster's "how to synch your busa"

I'd love to get this done on my Gen II but manual says it requires the SDS for some electronic doo dads. Can I be safe just to try this method? Anyone have any experience syncing a Gen II?
Shaft, don't try and synch without the SDS tool or the ECU Editor harness. You have to turn the electronic idle control off before you synch otherwise you'll throw everything off.


Re: Jinkster's "how to synch your busa"

Thanks Falqn. Anyone wanna sell me theirs, Loan it, or rent it to get this done? PWWEEEEZEEE?? :please:

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