jinkster suspension feel gooood

Now you have a baseline to get you started. It's time to tweak knobs and fine tune your setup.

What did you end up with for sag numbers for a big fella like you?

Dave Moss has a couple of dvd's out that teaches you how to fine tune that puppy. May be worth the time and $$$?
 
You do realize that Jinkster's set up was on a Gen I which has different suspension components? :dunno:
 
In any case, an alternative setup I am using and transforms the handling of the bike, is

Rear
barely any static sag at all, when the bike supports its own weight (which is about 5mm).
compression -5 turns
rebound -8 (or -7) turns

Front
about 50mm static sag (with rider)
middle positions of compression and rebound dampening (more or less).

Those are for a 95kg rider on a stock gen1 busa with gen2 shock and 1.0 Kg/mm front springs with 10W oil and
42psi front and back, stock size tyres. The bike sits about 10mm lower on the front and 15mm higher on the back than Jinkster's suggestions and to my opinion makes a very big difference. Busas need a steeper angle of attack to show what they can do in the handling department.
 
jinsters settings arnt too far off from sport riders settings foa a gen 2, only stiffer in front to make up for a heavier rider. maybe one click stffer in rear than sport rider
 
drbig said:
In any case, an alternative setup I am using and transforms the handling of the bike, is

Rear
barely any static sag (With the rider on board) at all, when the bike supports its own weight (which is about 5mm) (What you are referring to is "FREE SAG" not static/rider sag).
compression -5 turns (Clicks not turns)
rebound -8 (or -7) turns (Clicks not turns)

Front
about 50mm static sag (with rider)
middle positions of compression and rebound dampening (more or less).

Those are for a 95kg rider on a stock gen1 busa with gen2 shock and 1.0 Kg/mm front springs with 10W oil and
42psi front and back, stock size tyres. The bike sits about 10mm lower on the front and 15mm higher on the back than Jinkster's suggestions and to my opinion makes a very big difference. Busas need a steeper angle of attack (See Below) to show what they can do in the handling department.
Click to expand...

Raising the rear via shock linkage (Dog Bones) does two things, makes the bike steer quicker at the expense of high speed stability (Makes the bike more prone to head shake under hard acceleration off the corner and over bumps). Doesn't make it handle better in any other situation other than tipping into a corner. It may actually contribute to poor handling in other areas.

As your skills develop and you learn to use the brakes to compress the forks prior to tip in you may find the steering too aggressive with a tendency for the bike to fall on it's face and arresting the lean becomes problematic (Especially at slower speeds).

I'd suggest spending $25 for Andrew Trevitt's book "Sportbike Suspension Tuning". Great Read for the novice as well as the seasoned ride. :thumbsup:
 
Tufbusa said:
Raising the rear via shock linkage (Dog Bones) does two things, makes the bike steer quicker at the expense of high speed stability (Makes the bike more prone to head shake under hard acceleration off the corner and over bumps). Doesn't make it handle better in any other situation other than tipping into a corner. It may actually contribute to poor handling in other areas.

As your skills develop and you learn to use the brakes to compress the forks prior to tip in you may find the steering too aggressive with a tendency for the bike to fall on it's face and arresting the lean becomes problematic (Especially at slower speeds).

I'd suggest spending $25 for Andrew Trevitt's book "Sportbike Suspension Tuning". Great Read for the novice as well as the seasoned ride. :thumbsup:
Click to expand...


THANKS. I wasnt going to raise the rear. I dont think It would benifit me. I just wanted it to feel good, I just got back form a 20 min highway trip. some off ramps. feels great.
 
Oh no.. que tuffbusa telling you your an idiot... this is how he "helped me" in the past LMAO... guys a jerk !


QUOTE=Tufbusa;2933738]As with most home tuners you are going to twist knobs until the suspension is noticeably worse then you'll quit.

Your rebound is not what makes the bumps bang you in the arse, its compression. The rebound is what controls the how the spring releases stored energy. Just so you know!

You may not want suspension advise but you desperately need it.

Sportbike Suspension Tuning by Andrew Trevitt - Buy it, you'll be glad you did.[/QUOTE]
 
See... just buy the book and be as big a smart arse as he is!!!!! And you can aim to be twice as condocending too!
 
Jza said:
Oh no.. que tuffbusa telling you your an idiot... this is how he "helped me" in the past LMAO... guys a jerk !


QUOTE=Tufbusa;2933738]As with most home tuners you are going to twist knobs until the suspension is noticeably worse then you'll quit.

Your rebound is not what makes the bumps bang you in the arse, its compression. The rebound is what controls the how the spring releases stored energy. Just so you know!

You may not want suspension advise but you desperately need it.

Sportbike Suspension Tuning by Andrew Trevitt - Buy it, you'll be glad you did.
Click to expand...
[/QUOTE]

Apparently my delivery offended you and factually I could care less. Your attitude combined with your mouth is what generated that response and it appears you are still whimpering over it. You didn't know diddly squat about suspension in that thread or you wouldn't have been asking for advise on simple basics. I doubt you have made any noticeable improvements since. :dunno:
 
Seems to me there should be a chart somewhere with recommended settings from stock and indexed to rider weight and maybe agressiveness i.e. Tour-sport-track that can get you in the ballpark. Maybe include a variance for weight reduction/increase for accessories. At least there would be a good starting point for those of us who don't weigh 165 lbs. You up for it Tuff as you seem to be the expert on suspensions?

I weigh 250 and rode my bike on stock settings for a year and didn't have a problem. I have increased preload front significantly and rear moderately and increased rebound damping front and rear significantly. Compression stayed within 1 click of stock. I have never bottomed the suspension and going higher just made it more harsh. This suits my style of riding which includes a lot of commuting. Through much trial and error I have my bike where I like it but it took a lot of time to get there.
 
E Zurcher:
Sadly, there is no "One size fits all" adjustments in the suspension tuning world. Lots of variables to contend with. What works for me may or may not work well for you. Skill level has a great deal to do with suspension set up. A rider on his first bike requires different settings than does an advanced rider.

Setting proper sag is the first step before twiddling knobs. When you have a suspension guy set up your suspension, he is only giving you a baseline. It's up to you to play with the settings in order to get the best from your suspension. Reaching a final goal takes lots of trial and error. Most importantly "Take Notes" along the way. Be sure to write down the settings before you start so you can go back to the original set up if you get lost.

Properly adjusted suspension can tame a bucking bronco into a sleek, muscular, streamline steed. I encourage everyone who has interest in suspension tuning to acquire a copy of Andrew Trevitt's "Sportbike Suspension Tuning". It's the most detailed, easy to read and understand with lots of illustrations book I've read. There is hardly a page on my copy that doesn't have something highlighted.

Your stock suspension on your busa is actually quite versatile. It works amazingly well right off the shelf.

Suspension settings for Street use is a balancing act between stiff for smooth surfaces and soft for bumpy surfaces as road use covers a wide range of road surfaces. Most home tuners adjust their suspension (As well as their steering damper) on the stiff side. Both work well on smooth roads but doesn't function so well on rough bumpy roads.

Don't be afraid to play with the adjustments. Just be sure you know where the baseline is so you can go back to ground zero and start over. Lastly, only adjust one thing at a time so you know how that adjustment affects your ride.

If you get confused or hit a bump, feel free to drop me PM. I'll be happy to do what I can to help you over the hump. :beerchug:
 
E Zurcher said:
Seems to me there should be a chart somewhere with recommended settings from stock and indexed to rider weight and maybe agressiveness i.e. Tour-sport-track that can get you in the ballpark. Maybe include a variance for weight reduction/increase for accessories. At least there would be a good starting point for those of us who don't weigh 165 lbs.
Click to expand...

I agree a basic settings chart would be an awesome start for folk's suspension settings, based on weight and riding style. HOWEVER, getting a consensus on what those settings should be will be a challenge. So many "experts" and arguments will ensue based on their "opinions". I would like to see someone put a basic weight-related chart for us talent deficient folks. :laugh:
 
Poppy said:
I agree a basic settings chart would be an awesome start for folk's suspension settings, based on weight and riding style. HOWEVER, getting a consensus on what those settings should be will be a challenge. So many "experts" and arguments will ensue based on their "opinions". I would like to see someone put a basic weight-related chart for us talent deficient folks. :laugh:
Click to expand...

Let me give that prospect a bit more thought?
 
Tufbusa said:
Let me give that prospect a bit more thought?
Click to expand...

Haha, ok! I read your posting above mine after I posted(makes sense?) and agree there are a lot of variables to consider on suspension settings. But without trying to gather information about tires, riding style, aggressiveness, blah, blah,.....it may prove to be a hard chart to compose anyway. I adjusted my settings a several years ago but at that time I weighed 330lbs. While it only improved a little due to the OEM equipment limitations, it did help some. After an extended illness and a subsequent loss of 100 lbs., I used the settings in Jinkster's thread and that improved the overall "feel" of the bike but I need to re-do the settings as I've lost my notes from all the measurements. But I remember mine were very close to Jinkster's results. I'm hovering around 240lbs. now, +/- 5 lbs. :laugh:
 
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