JE Pistons

scrappy

Registered
JE Pistons Part#: 213918

So im looking at these things, and my stock pistons that i removed. (No instructions came with the JE pistons so im going off of shop Knowledge and a Haynes manual.)

I posted a pic below, and my question is, which side is the exhaust and which side is intake? Im assuming in orientation of the photo, the top in the photo would be the exhaust and the bottom in the photo would be intake.

am i correct?

DSC01211.JPG
 
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cool, i thought so, but i didnt want to just drop them in without some info.. my first turbo build and these pistons are flat .. so i was a little confused.
 
look at the bottom of the piston there is JE stamped on one side that is the exhaust (JE=just exhaust)
 
You will clay them and check for clearance, right?


I wasn't planning on it. Is that even necessary? I am having my head and my block prepped by ape and a new spacer will be installed.

It would be nice to have a mechanic or a builder around here that actually knew what they were doing when it comes to force induced machines, but as far as i can tell no one i have met here is competent, so im learning all this stuff first hand, and praying i don't F something up.
 
i bought the pistons new from ape, along with some Carrillo h beams.. and apes wrists pins (yes they are sized for the JE Pistons). APE did a spec test on the block after i sent it to them and told them what i was doing to it. They inspected the block told me all the clearances were good, de-glazed it, cleaned up the head, put new valve springs in for me and are sending it back, should be here Monday.
 
Make sure to measure your deck height. You may suprised as to what the clearance is. On mine I had .008/.008/.008/.002. Just because of the #4 cyl with only .002 I had to had a second base gasket. You can get a .005 or .010 base gasket to set the clearance.

Get it right, you don't want the pistons to kiss the head/valves.

Here is a pic so you can see the piston orientation.
000_1024.jpg


.008"
000_0901.jpg


000_0898.jpg



Here is the tight #4
000_0891.jpg
 
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Block should be bolted down to get an accurate measurement,

Richard

Oh yeah I forgot to mention that.....I used the old wrist pins out of the stock pistons as spacers as well as some flat washers to snug the cylinder block down square. Also rock the piston in the bore to make one side protrude all the way up, then measure that high side.
 
i bought the pistons new from ape, along with some Carrillo h beams.. and apes wrists pins (yes they are sized for the JE Pistons). APE did a spec test on the block after i sent it to them and told them what i was doing to it. They inspected the block told me all the clearances were good, de-glazed it, cleaned up the head, put new valve springs in for me and are sending it back, should be here Monday.

If you bought those pistons new, why do they look like they were sand blasted or glass beaded?

Richard
 
I should probably clarify my last statement..

I had them prepped by a local machine shop

also, i stated this before... when i started the thread


It would be nice to have a mechanic or a builder around here that actually knew what they were doing when it comes to force induced machines, but as far as i can tell no one i have met here is competent, so im learning all this stuff first hand, and praying i don't F something up.

And that is why those pistons look the way they do. I asked to have them de-burred/edged and i got a soft topped pistons.. who knows, maybe it will do just fine.. Im so F N mad right now i can barely sit still..
 
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i polish my pistons and let the buffing wheel do the deburring (does a real nice job and doesnt remove huge amount of material and gets rid of sharp edges real nicely)
 
Looks like it was effective at deburring, if you want some extra durability and heat isolation from this point you could get them ceramic coated..
 
i thought about ceramic coating, but that just adds more weight.. so i think i will run them like this and i am getting lots of detonation i will look into that
 
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