Is The Head Bolts Streching?

My begi rising rate regulated stage one Mr Turbo kit supported 18lbs on stock injecters and was in the 10.8s a/f. Your gen 1 injectors should easily support the boost you are running.
Please listen to Frank. He is one of a handful of major pros on the planet.
 
Once you get it all back together, find another tuner who knows what he is doing and won't "hot lap" your bike on the dyno. Tuning a turbo bike - or any built motor for that matter - requires some time and patience and an emphasis on monitoring the proper parameters and targeting the right air/fuel ratio. A properly ventilated dyno room and good fans that keep the bike cool play a part, timing, not burying the bike into the rev limiter, fresh and proper fuel, and a tuner with experience is all part of the list. This thread emphasizes the necessity of having your bike tuned at the right place, signing a dyno release form and then allowing someone to blow up you investment is not a happy ending for anyone involved . . . :poke:
 
Once you get it all back together, find another tuner who knows what he is doing and won't "hot lap" your bike on the dyno. Tuning a turbo bike - or any built motor for that matter - requires some time and patience and an emphasis on monitoring the proper parameters and targeting the right air/fuel ratio. A properly ventilated dyno room and good fans that keep the bike cool play a part, timing, not burying the bike into the rev limiter, fresh and proper fuel, and a tuner with experience is all part of the list. This thread emphasizes the necessity of having your bike tuned at the right place, signing a dyno release form and then allowing someone to blow up you investment is not a happy ending for anyone involved . . . :poke:

I don't have a dyno......Datalogging and that is why it has taken me 6 months to get my tune close(this time)(partly cause our weather has been spotty)
Either pay someone who KNOWS what they are doing or.......Do like me and spend 6 years learning to tune
first a FMU
then FMU with S2000's
then a secondary controller
then PCV-TPI
Tuning on the street can be dangerous, 14 PSI is about as high as I can "safely" tune on the street as the distance between me and the car in front closes VERY quicly
 
No spacer coz i dont want a laggish pig at low rpms
First of all you cannot have it all, everything in life is a compromise.
Maybe in the future with variable compression engines....
Well at 8 psi, stock compression with no spacer, (i guess) no intercooler and no water injection your engine will have problems especially in the summer.
For me the max psi with stock gen1 engine should be 6 psi especially now that you will need to trim the warped head which will raise compression close to 12:1
My opinion is to check the fuel system first (i think you have done that), install the head studs after checking the head for flatness which btw may increase compression to 12:1 or more and finally install water injection (for me this is a must) and remove some timming at 7-9 Krpm.
The best way to correctly adjust fueling in a gen 1 Hayabusa cheap enough is with a pcv pti btw.
Also i would not use a spacer for lowering compression as it will mess the quench area and the engine will detonate easier, get the correct turbo pistons when you find the right time.
One final word, the engine should never ever loose coolant in any way, if yours do and it is not caused by a leaky radiator or leaky hose or a bad radiator cap or a faulty water pump then the head gasket is gone and it needs to be replaced.
 
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First of all you cannot have it all, everything in life is a compromise.
Maybe in the future with variable compression engines....
Well at 8 psi, stock compression with no spacer, (i guess) no intercooler and no water injection your engine will have problems especially in the summer.
For me the max psi with stock gen1 engine should be 6 psi especially now that you will need to trim the warped head which will raise compression close to 12:1
My opinion is to check the fuel system first (i think you have done that), install the head studs after checking the head for flatness which btw may increase compression to 12:1 or more and finally install water injection (for me this is a must) and remove some timming at 7-9 Krpm.
The best way to correctly adjust fueling in a gen 1 Hayabusa cheap enough is with a pcv pti btw.
Also i would not use a spacer for lowering compression as it will mess the quench area and the engine will detonate easier, get the correct turbo pistons when you find the right time.
One final word, the engine should never ever loose coolant in any way, if yours do and it is not caused by a leaky radiator or leaky hose or a bad radiator cap or a faulty water pump then the head gasket is gone and it needs to be replaced.
The motor dropped and the gasket gone the head checked for flatness and its ok but resurfaced.Head studs and cometic gasket ordered,the gasket is the .30 and if i am right compression has to be near stock.You are right no intercooler but i order aem water meth injection and s2k injectors.I have the pcv but not the pti,i think i saw in somewere in other thread that you connect aem failsafe wideband with pcv for boost/rpm strategy is that a good choice as i have the failsafe or is better to order a 3bar map sensor?sorry for my bad english!!!
 
The PTI is not necessary. The PCV is quite capable of providing the correct fueling on a turbo bike with a single level of boost. A PTI comes in handy when multiple levels of boost come into play . . .
 
sorry for my bad english!!!

Your writing is perfectly understandable. There is nothing to apologize for. Your second-language reading and writing skills are actually superior to many Americans' primary language-skills. I am so grateful that people like you have learned my language so that we can communicate. I was never able to string more than a sentence or two together in any foreign language that I studied. Your are to be commended for your skills.
 
The PTI is not necessary. The PCV is quite capable of providing the correct fueling on a turbo bike with a single level of boost. A PTI comes in handy when multiple levels of boost come into play . . .

I have the pcv and the aem failsafe and s2k injectors so this is the reason for converting to boost/rpm if its accurate for connecting the pcv with the failsafe or to buy a map sensor for pcv,i think is better than the rpm/tps
 
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