Yep Now my Brocks went on before delivery and a PC III and base map was installed, but that bad boy flowsExhaust has nothing to do with break-in. Your bike is broken on in the first couple hundred anyway. The only thing I would caution is installing a full exhaust, (Header/cans) without remapping your bike because it will probably run lean without a remap. Probably won't make a difference though.
SO to paraphrase the above, there are many ways to skin a cat. Go ahead and put your exhaust on. and educate yourself by participating in this board. It is the best around!It's smart to ride your new bike a little while before doing anything to it, that way you can more easily notice the difference after the changeout, you should notice the bike pull much harder during acceleration even thought the numbers aren't that significant on the graph. Since the stock pipes are basically boat anchors it will handle much better and sound better, with my stock set up I can't even hear my bike when riding with a group, I have to look at my tach, that's weak.
I'm not sure if you're talking just about cans only or changing out the whole thing but since you bought a busa and not a scooter do yourself a favor and go with a full system. You're just gonna want it later and if you do decide to upgrade the slip-on's won't be able to work with it.
There are headers available which directly match the stock exhaust (Vance Hines for one) You can put on slip-ons and then add the header later.
You save much more weight and better everything, you'll just have to lose the O2 sensor
Vance hines is O2 sensor compatible. You can always add a bung to install a sensor on those which don't come equipped.
and also as you may or may not know go ahead and get a K&N air filter to open up the flow on the intake side to help the overall flow through the engine.
K&N air filters actually reduce HP slightly over the stock filter, B&H Race and the stock filter perform better. The only benefit to the K&N is it's cheaper because if its cleanable which is why I use one also.
Now all you need is the Power Commander 5 or V. I would also recommend to have a good performance shop custom tune your map on a Dynojet dyno if you can find one. If not then I guess go with their preset flash.
ECU editor, which allows you to edit the ECU directly, turn off limits, remap all three modes to include air/fuel and secondary opening, log data and automap and much more is a far superior way to go with the Busa. You will have to find a shop that knows how to do the editing though. See boostbysmith for more info.
You will lose your riding modes since the PCV will override your bikes ECU but big deal, I rode today in the rain in "A" mode because rider input is my riding mode. My bike only does what I tell it too.
If you use ECU editor you can have three custom set-ups at your beck and call via the mode switch. When I get mine I will have street, stock and strip set-ups.
If you install slip-ons you will see no performance increase but it will sound better
If you install a full exhaust you will see no performance increase and maybe even a decrease without a tune. Also look up the Marble Mod on this board.
I'm going with Akrapovic full system carbon fiber and also getting Marchesini wheel rims put on first. I will have to also modify the suspension a bit but losing 10 lbs. of "spun" weight will be like adding 100 horsepower to your bike.
From 175 at the back wheel to 275 just by changing rims and exhaust? Not happening. A good exhaust and tune will net you maybe 10-15 hp at the rear. Weight reduction will help but not nearly to the point of 275 HP equivalent.
It won't show up on the dyno but your bikes engine will be able to do more with what it has. I figure my bike will hit 7000 RPM's much faster when it really starts to open up and pull. They're telling me to watch the front end because it's going to want to come up off the ground. oh darn
But back to your original question, the owners manual says your bike is broke in at 1000 miles keeping the tach below 5500 the first 500 and below 8000 until you hit the 1000 mile mark (p. 4-2). I hope you changed your oil at 600 miles oh and stick with conventional oil unless you like changing out your clutch every 10k miles. Also change your oil & filter every 2000 miles.
Lots of oil and break-in threads on this board but here are the basics.
Run dino oil until your second oil change. Then move to synth if you wish. As long as it's motorcycle oil, it has the proper additives to be compatable with your clutch. I have been using Mobil 1 Racing 4T for nearly 30,000 miles without a problem.
Changing oil and filter every 2000 miles is just a waste of expensive oil and an expensive filter. Go by what your owners manual says and change the filter every other oil change. If you are using synth, you can go twice the mileage but I change mine every 4000 and the filter every other. That is still overkill by the way.
There are three schools of thought on break-in
1. Ride it like you stole it.
2. Factory break-in procedure.
3. Dyno pulls to seat the rings.
Look em up and make an educated choice.
Well I think I'm done saying YES you can go ahead and do your mods
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