Is Changing a Clutch This Easy?

Kat600

Kat600

Registered
The clutch in my 03 busa has been slipping a bit for about 3-4 weeks now. Only occasionally and only under heavy acceleration. It started in 6th gear, then 5th and 6th and now occassionally in all gears except for first. It has 60,000 kms (about 37,000 miles) on it, so I figured it's time for a new clutch.

I've always been told that replacing clutches on motorcycles are easy and came across these videos on youtube. It looks way easier than I thought. I noticed in the videos, he didn't torque anything to spec or replace the gasket. Other than what I noticed he missed, is it really this easy?

I plan on replacing the springs and friction plates myself if it is truly this simple. I know from reading on here that I have to ensure the right plates are ordered and that the stack height is correct and I should soak the plates overnight. Other than that, does anyone have any tips or other things I should look for when doing this? I have the Haynes manual and will read up on the clutch change there, but would really appreciate any feedback from people who have done this. I'm no mechanic, but love doing as much as I can myself. Even if I have to take it to the shop, it looks like a 30 minute job tops.

Thanks for your help!!

Part 1 -
- ‪Hayabusa motorcycle new clutches install PART 1‬‏[/url]
Part 2 -
- ‪Hayabusa motorcycle new clutches install PART 2‬‏[/url]
Part 3 -
- ‪Hayabusa new clutches install PART 3‬‏[/url]
Part 4 -
- ‪Hayabusa motorcycle new clutches install how to PART 4! Final‬‏[/url]
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Its so hard to answer a question like this. Everyones technical abilities vary. Some are challenged checking air pressure, some over torque hardware and cross thread nuts and bolts and we have gear heads that can set and degree DOHC with there eyes closed. And we have those that tools are there worst enemy.
Changing a clutch isnt difficult or challenging IMO but I have been working on 4 stroke engines for over 25 years.
 
Bro, changing clutches is very simple. A few things to remember:
1) if you want to re use your gasket do NOT over torque the cover bolts. You will crush the gasket; and it WILL leak.
2) You do not have to soak the friction plates over night. Just cover them in oil before you start pulling bolts for the job. They don't 'soak up' oil, they just need to be well lubricated when they go in.
3) make sure you get the plate tabs in the right grooves...study the ones you take out.
4) before you put your pressure plate back on you have to push the center shaft in as far as you can, otherwise the pressure plate won't be seated properly on the basket.
5) before you put the cover back on, give a pull on your clutch lever and watch your plates. They should expand and contract. If they don't, something isn't 'grooved' properly...try again.

You can do this brother...just be patient and ask questions. :beerchug:
 
Thanks for all of the tips so far! Keep'em coming, I appreciate it. I will be ordering up the plates and springs today.
 
1 more thing use the Blue loktite and USE a torque wrench to tighten all the bolts. The spring/pressure plate bolts only get torqed to 7 ftlb, these bolts do have a tendancy to backout at the wrong time so use the loktite on these and the cover bolts also to 7 ftlb.
 
Thanks again guys! I did know from here to stick with OEM plates, and thanks for the torque settings. I don't think my torque wrench goes down to increments that small, but I always like buying new tools!
 
Good luck man.. sounds like you are on the right path... I do agree with the blue loctite... you don't want things like that backing out.. you don't have to use a ton of it either just a little dab will do.
 
How did the clutch job go? I too enjoy doing as much as I can myself before I have to turn to the professionals. It just hurts my wallet less :laugh:
 
CruzinBusa said:
How did the clutch job go? I too enjoy doing as much as I can myself before I have to turn to the professionals. It just hurts my wallet less :laugh:
Click to expand...

Still waiting for the parts. My dealer orders Suzuki parts twice a week and I think I missed the first order. If they're not here by tomorrow, then Monday they should be here.

I'll post an update once I'm done. I may even record it and post up a video so I can get some feedback on the install.
 
The video would be a great idea. Not to mention it helps to see how someone who has not done a billion of these gets through it.
 
Clutch plates and springs arrived today... Wedding this weekend, so I will attempt this on Sunday as long as I can get my hands on a torque wrench for the spring and cover bolts. My torque wrench doesn't go down to 10Nm (7 ft/lb) and I won't do the job without it.

If all goes well, I'll post up some results and a video Sunday night.
 
Good luck on getting through the wedding and the clutch job without any injuries :laugh: Autozone has saved my bacon a number of times with tool rental. Most large parts stores have that program. Just in case you have trouble tracking one down.
 
PLEASE post up pics along the way! I'd LOVE to see it in action other than a vid so when I get home I can do mine without f'ing it up!
 
04Duramax said:
Good luck man.. sounds like you are on the right path... I do agree with the blue loctite... you don't want things like that backing out.. you don't have to use a ton of it either just a little dab will do.
Click to expand...

I dont personally use blueloctite unless the factory did on certain bolts.
If you are going to use loctite on the hardware its not going to do any good unless you clean the harddware with contact cleaner to remove the oil residue.
 
New clutch is in, install was a breeze! What a difference in shifting already. A mechanic friend of mine was on hand to watch and he was able to show me where to look for additional wear and tear. If I still have the bike for the next clutch install, I'll probably replace the steel plates as well. They have a tiny bit of wear due to slippage. There was a bit of wear on the pressure plate too. Enough in fact that I might change it out over the winter.

Unfortunately, my girlfriend drove away with the laptop and webcam in the car, so no video was taken. I can honestly say it was the same process as the videos above in my original post.

Thanks again to everyone for your advice, I appreciate it!

@MLSDUKE1, sorry no photos either. It really is an easy job. Just ensure that your plates are in the right order when you put them in. That was honestly the "hardest" part.
 
I have changed A clutch before on my 900RR and let me stress the letter "A." This was roughly 8 years ago and I really don't remember much about it. I just remember taking the cover off with the cable disconnected, taking out the clutch plates and fibers and putting them back in in the same way. I remember the cable being the hardest part to "align" but that's about it. I got the full clutch kit this time with new fibers, steels, and springs
 
Kat600 said:
New clutch is in, install was a breeze! What a difference in shifting already. A mechanic friend of mine was on hand to watch and he was able to show me where to look for additional wear and tear. If I still have the bike for the next clutch install, I'll probably replace the steel plates as well. They have a tiny bit of wear due to slippage. There was a bit of wear on the pressure plate too. Enough in fact that I might change it out over the winter.

Unfortunately, my girlfriend drove away with the laptop and webcam in the car, so no video was taken. I can honestly say it was the same process as the videos above in my original post.

Thanks again to everyone for your advice, I appreciate it!

@MLSDUKE1, sorry no photos either. It really is an easy job. Just ensure that your plates are in the right order when you put them in. That was honestly the "hardest" part.
Click to expand...

If your steels are blued/purple in color meaning warped from slipping they could also glaze and wear your new fibers premature. You could have them sand blasted to remove the heats spots and then check them with a gauge if you have no gauge to see how true they are you can lay them on a piece of glass to see how true they are. (Kind of like doing a brake job and not turning the rotors or replacing them) It works yeah, but its a half azz way of doing things.
Also with the steels I believe they have an oreintation to them meaning dont flip them 180 out. Not sure about the Hayabusa but I know on other bikes that had a mark on them so you could line all the marks up properly.

And as far as this comment................

"Unfortunately, my girlfriend drove away with the laptop and webcam in the car, so no video was taken"

:whistle: I am staying quiet on that one:whistle:
 
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