Installed clutch on my 99
- Thread starter ky busa
- Start date
No i replaced my 2011 busa that was in the fire with another gen 2 i have both gens! Yeah I know you dont have to soak the steels that was just a good place to put them
Berlin Germany
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cheaper way at the gen I is only to change 2 of the thinnest "friction" and put in 2 of the thickest
sliding is, depending on your kind of clutch usage, gone next 20-40,000 mi (or more)
(that trick doesn´t work at gen II - here you have to change all frictions)
but please! never forget to control if the studs (but not! the small m6 screws!) are cemented by unscrewing one of the 6 and watching his thread.
sliding is, depending on your kind of clutch usage, gone next 20-40,000 mi (or more)
(that trick doesn´t work at gen II - here you have to change all frictions)
but please! never forget to control if the studs (but not! the small m6 screws!) are cemented by unscrewing one of the 6 and watching his thread.
What kind of money is anyone really saving by doing this, excuse me, half azz job? With the clutch pack out, all with the same mileage on them, wouldn’t it be prudent to just go ahead and swap them all for new ones? You don’t drain just a quart or two and top it off with a quart or two of new oil when you change oil do you? Sarcasm intended.
Berlin Germany
Registered
dears sorry - i have to correct my former post
you only have to change one "friction" (2.3 to 3.8 mm thickness)
AND
one of the steel (also 2.3 to 3.8 mm thickness)
Berlin Germany
Registered
easy answer - the one who only had left about 25 € in his pocket (here in germany) and has to go by bike.
25 is about 1/3 of costs for all frictions and if you are very close to very low money at all this can help.
dear - some years ago I myself have already experienced such poverty / poorness and was glad about such an opportunity.
(Only those who have tons of real gold dollars in a huge safe in their own house will not experience this situation.)
Mr Brown
Registered
What kind of money is anyone really saving by doing this, excuse me, half azz job? With the clutch pack out, all with the same mileage on them, wouldn’t it be prudent to just go ahead and swap them all for new ones? You don’t drain just a quart or two and top it off with a quart or two of new oil when you change oil do you? Sarcasm intended.
I'm sure most everyone on this board has experienced some type of poverty at some point in their lives, and very few of us are wealthy. There are some members who have more disposable income than others, some who have nicer things than others, however painting those who disagree with your methods as too rich to care is a mistake on your part. While replacing just one or two clutch parts can get you by in a pinch (just like scuffing up your steels can) it is absolutely not a substitute for long term replacement. It's a band-aid not a solution. It costs money to operate bikes (or cars, trucks, busses, whatever) and if it's your primary transportation, budgeting for consumables is part of it.easy answer - the one who only had left about 25 € in his pocket (here in germany) and has to go by bike.
25 is about 1/3 of costs for all frictions and if you are very close to very low money at all this can help.
dear - some years ago I myself have already experienced such poverty / poorness and was glad about such an opportunity.
(Only those who have tons of real gold dollars in a huge safe in their own house will not experience this situation.)
Berlin Germany
Registered
dears sorry - i have to correct my former post
you only have to change one "friction" (2.3 to 3.8 mm thickness)
AND
one of the steel (also 2.3 to 3.8 mm thickness)
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