Idle Speed Control Valve Question

I have an old gs 1100 that I turbo'd'. Nobody wanted to work on it. It wasnt holding a charge. I searched for the issue for months. Replaced the stator and rectifier...then I found the short.
Shorts and me are a love/hate thing. I love to find them, but I hate the process.
In the case of the gs it was a short between 2 connectors on 2 legs of the stator wires. Two of the wire spades were taped together and had worn through their plastic covers to the point that they would occassionally arc. The spades were taped, inside another tube and then inside the main harness. When I found it I was did a super bowl td dance.
I'm sure I'll find the Busas issue. It will be a good day when I do.
 
I may have found it. Instead of just visually inspecting and tightening all comnections I decided to break my personal rule and actually start at step one. I capped the turbo inlet and pressurized everything. Massive air from the underside of the plenum/throttle body boots. The plenum is visually fine and tight and strapped to the frame, but it appears as though when it was assembled they didn't fully seat the plenum and then strapped it in place too high.
Im excited to get home and loosen the straps and rubber mallet the plenum down. This issue would expain a lot. I hope I didn't nust hinx myself by posting this, lol.
 
Loosened the clamps, pulled the plenum off, inspected, pushed it all on, checked, tightened, still leaks, but not the same as before.
I ordered some new plenum/throttle body boots. The existing ones have deep imprints from the the prior clamping and I think the recesses are interfering with the sealing. I ran out of co2 to pressurize the system, so the progress stopped. I can hear a leak and I had just about located the spot when the air ran out. I may hook up my compressor to it. Not as easy, but free. I felt air leaking between and under the #3 and 4 plenum area. Probably the bad boot.
 
Ok, the guys that put my bike back together arent good at listening. Why would you gap the plugs at 32. For f sake, I told them 18.
Clearly they did no leak test either.
I took my bike to them in effn Decdmber and I still cant ride it. Now it 82 degrees and I get to ride a couch. Never again. I dont care if shipping is 3000 dollars to Canada, its going to Richards.
 
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Ok, the guys that put my bike back together arent good at listening. Why would you gap the plugs at 32. For f sake, I told them 18.
Clearly they did no leak test either.
I took my bike to them in effn Decdmber and I still cant ride it. Now it 82 degrees and I get to ride a couch. Never again. I dont care if shipping is 3000 dollars to Canada, its going to Richards.
Do you think your problems after the first build was little things overlooked like this?
 
I thought about that. Most of what they missed has been boost related. Thet seem to be able to get the "stock" portion ok.

My guess is that the head gasket I special ordered was faulty, but I'll never know for sure.

It's pretty hard to get vehicles across the border from what I understand. That being said, Id be riding right now if Richard did all the work. I've had the tank up on this thing at least 20 times since its been back (literally).
 
Fixed!

Massive boost leak found and plugs were gapped at 32 instead of 18. Still has small leak, can hear it but couldn't find it.

The motor is good. it isnt where it should be yet, but its fast again.
The leak I havent found yet is somewhere near the left throttle body and the sound of the leak changes when I open and close the throttle. I sprayed the crap out of it and got no bubbles. I do the soapy water and a dental mirror tomorrow.

Feels good to light up the back tire again.
 
Thanks. I'll keep it in mind. I might do the Texas mile next year. How close are you to that event? Maybe ship, fine tune, pick up and then "off the races"?
I also found that the tps was off.
I have 4 new silicone couplers to install, then I'll re test.
It's still going full close on decel when I let off after a blast or from above about 4k rpm. All this I can live with until I find it and fix it.
 
Yep. IAC is out and plugged. I put the stock map back in to see if the ecu would give me all the codes it should give me if it thinks its stock.
I was expecting to see a code for the tps, secondary valve, iacv, and maybe one or 2 more.
So how do you adjust the idle with the IAC valve removed?
 
The ecu sets the speed mostly. It only effects it when its cold. Once its warmed up theres no differnce in the running.
 
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