I want boost!

Drew Fleetwood

Registered
Purchased my hayabusa with the intention to throw a turbo on. Noticed an rcc kit for sale on here for a decent price, any alternatives? I've read you can make your own kits for fairly cheap?

As far as preference, want a kit you can see, not looking for stealth. Would like to stay around 300 horse. Don't want to dive into the motor just yet.

I have a 2006, yosh pipe and pc3, live in iowa. So finding a tuner may also be difficult. (Ironically enough, down the street from some drag bike professionals)
 
Dive into the motor. Dive into the tranny. Dive into the swing arm. Dive into the credit card and retirement funds. Dive into the air shifter. Dive into the everythingyoudidntthinkaboutbutyouneeditnowthatcosts$whichistwicewhatyoupredicted. Your addiction has begun. Sorry. If you are an adrenaline junkie, whether you know it or not, a stage 1 will not be enough. Neither will the stock wheel base once your addiction is in full swing.

That being said, as a beginner, and newly addicted stage 1 purchaser/installer, I suggest you go ahead and begin your prep for a stage II. Go ahead and put the head spacer and adjustable cam sprockets and head studs in now. None of them will hurt you without a turbo. Get that done, pop it back in. Drive your busa. Work on launching your stock motor and take it to the track. Get the best times out of your stock bike you can. Get your money for your stage II. It will be a snap to pop that on once you have done that versus us that went stage I and now have to go back and do those things to accommodate the boost addiction. You will not be content with a stage 1 regardless of your traction/wheelies/nearlifeending rollons. Not for long. And meet your local track. Do not think that you will spend that beloved money on your beloved addiction and not want the real intravenous speedball of the 1/4 mile.
 
Why not experiment with nitrous first (from a reputable tuner with a 40 shot) before you start the turbo bling and learn as much as you can about tuning and your ecu and the ins and outs of your bike? Learn ecu mapping and components needed for high hp and you wont have to completely rely on a tuner. RACE YOUR BIKE NOW! Make it as fast as possible without major modifications before you take on this. Once you begin the turbo investment, there is no turning back. You will have as much or more into that as you will your actual bike. Im not joking.
 
If and when you do take the red pill, buy an rcc kit off of a dealer on this site. When you are freaking out and something is wrong or just a question, you can call them anytime, night or day and they will help you. They wont charge you for that but you cant put a cost on that. That almost is non-existant in this world anymore. Your tuner on the other hand, good luck. DO NOT go in there with that thing installed and not paying attention to EVERY SINGLE THING going on and without a set price beforehand. Not a wrench gets picked up without a price on paper. I drove 3 hours on my bike one way, worried slightly the whole time that something might go wrong after a 10 hour workday and not completely good in my head about my tuner. I had 3 things break while mine was on the dyno from 11-2am. I dont even want to talk about how much that night cost me nor did I leave with everything I needed as my ecu flash is lost and tuner claims cannot reproduce it, therefore needing another 3 hour one way trip and dyno jaunt just to get the fuggin ecu .bin verifired. Nice trick though. He got me.

RCC=a given. Do it. Dont even think about anything else. You will need customer service and thiers is unbeatable.

Tuner=.....Screw it. Go 8 hours one way if you have to. DO NOT PICK THE WRONG TUNER. Trailer it. Get it tuned at the shop you buy it from if at all possible. IF I COULD GO BACK I WOULD HAVE TRAILERED MINE TO TEXAS from FL. It still would have been less expensive.
 
I did a turbo install on a Gen 1 over the winter. If you are an ok mechanic, the install is easy. Remove exhaust, oil cooler, and radiator. Drill and tap a few holes, modify a few brackets, run a few fuel lines. Bolt on the header with the turbo and dump pipes. Reinstall the radiator, cut a few holes in the plastics and you are done. If you are running stage 1, that is all you need to do for a Gen 1 for the street. If you are gong to race it, you'll need to go into the engine. If you are doing a Gen 2, someone else will need to chime in on anything additional since it has different heads and higher compression ratio.

Now the real challenge begins. Getting it tuned. Here's the lesson I learned the hard way. The tuner I thought I was going to use didn't want to tune the bike because he didn't do the build, and just because someone built a 650 hp drag bike does not mean they know how to tune a turbo bike for the street. Make sure you know who is going to tune it and make sure they are on board before you buy your kit.
 
Well you can make your own for less than a kit for sure but it will take longer than ordering and you get what you got. With a kit you know more or less what to expect.

As far as not wanting to look stealthy, get a big air filter to shoot out the side and some dump pipes. Then lower it, extend it, and cut the bottom of the front plastics.

I would suggest a stg 1 rcc kit though with atleast the bov. then just come back when ready with studs, spacer, pistons, rods, ect to do a complete motor rebuild later. And don't let anyone deter you with bs about getting the most out of your bike then slowly wasting money on mods that don't contribute to the end goal and tunes are worth their weight in gold.
 
Dive into the motor. Dive into the tranny. Dive into the swing arm. Dive into the credit card and retirement funds. Dive into the air shifter. Dive into the everythingyoudidntthinkaboutbutyouneeditnowthatcosts$whichistwicewhatyoupredicted. Your addiction has begun. Sorry. If you are an adrenaline junkie, whether you know it or not, a stage 1 will not be enough. Neither will the stock wheel base once your addiction is in full swing.

That being said, as a beginner, and newly addicted stage 1 purchaser/installer, I suggest you go ahead and begin your prep for a stage II. Go ahead and put the head spacer and adjustable cam sprockets and head studs in now. None of them will hurt you without a turbo. Get that done, pop it back in. Drive your busa. Work on launching your stock motor and take it to the track. Get the best times out of your stock bike you can. Get your money for your stage II. It will be a snap to pop that on once you have done that versus us that went stage I and now have to go back and do those things to accommodate the boost addiction. You will not be content with a stage 1 regardless of your traction/wheelies/nearlifeending rollons. Not for long. And meet your local track. Do not think that you will spend that beloved money on your beloved addiction and not want the real intravenous speedball of the 1/4 mile.

i feared that, it was the same way with my car.. $40,000 in mods later i still just want to go faster.. at least with the bike it's cheaper haha, what would you recommend for head spacer and adjustable cam sprockets? as far as brand, also i don't know much about the companies that make parts for our cycles, all i've really heard about is mr turbo, rcc, and yoshimura..

also, that tuner is in nevada, i know of a reputable one in kansas city, if there is anywhere closer i will definitely jump on that, i would think there has to be one somewhere in chicago. if i can get a for sure from a tuner/shop then i'll jump on the rcc kit, otherwise it'll just be a paperweight
 
do NOT build ur own kit. that wud be a poor idea! get the RCC kit. but just be aware ull get bored with the stage I kit kit pretty fast tho....
 
i feared that, it was the same way with my car.. $40,000 in mods later i still just want to go faster.. at least with the bike it's cheaper haha, what would you recommend for head spacer and adjustable cam sprockets? as far as brand, also i don't know much about the companies that make parts for our cycles, all i've really heard about is mr turbo, rcc, and yoshimura..

also, that tuner is in nevada, i know of a reputable one in kansas city, if there is anywhere closer i will definitely jump on that, i would think there has to be one somewhere in chicago. if i can get a for sure from a tuner/shop then i'll jump on the rcc kit, otherwise it'll just be a paperweight

Go to the RCC site and Richard has it set up on the "turbo parts" section i think where the adjustable cam sprox, head gasket with spacer and cyl head studs are. Just buy the parts. I should have done that. Think about it. Lowering the compression just a bit doesn't really reduce noticeable power, maybe 3%. Big deal. The head studs instead of a the stock bolts are a no brainer. Pop in a new cam chain (always a good idea) or, explore the roller cam chain?!!!(none of us have done this yet) which might not have to be degreed so I read. The cylinder head studs are threaded so easy job there with the motor out. The adjustable cam sprox seem to me to the biggest time consuming thing of it all. In all my V8 days, I never degreed cams. Just popped em in and broke em in, smoke tires, move on. None of this prep for the stage II kit will even make a difference in your daily driving without a turbo. Cost you about $600. Pop motor back in and save up your scratch until you open that #10 can of wallet and get that stage II kit.
 
If and when you do take the red pill, buy an rcc kit off of a dealer on this site. When you are freaking out and something is wrong or just a question, you can call them anytime, night or day and they will help you. They wont charge you for that but you cant put a cost on that.

Boosted cycle performance is the only Rcc turbos dealer that has 24/7 tech support. Don't mislead the guy by saying "they". No one else will pick up the phone or respond to a text at 11pm on a Sunday night except us.
 
Boosted cycle performance is the only Rcc turbos dealer that has 24/7 tech support. Don't mislead the guy by saying "they". No one else will pick up the phone or respond to a text at 11pm on a Sunday night except us.

I can attest to what this man said...I have texted Rob at 5am NY time,forgetting he was in Texas and in a different time zone..and he got back to me within 20mins. Dude is on point:beerchug:
 
Go to the RCC site and Richard has it set up on the "turbo parts" section i think where the adjustable cam sprox, head gasket with spacer and cyl head studs are. Just buy the parts. I should have done that. Think about it. Lowering the compression just a bit doesn't really reduce noticeable power, maybe 3%. Big deal. The head studs instead of a the stock bolts are a no brainer. Pop in a new cam chain (always a good idea) or, explore the roller cam chain?!!!(none of us have done this yet) which might not have to be degreed so I read. The cylinder head studs are threaded so easy job there with the motor out. The adjustable cam sprox seem to me to the biggest time consuming thing of it all. In all my V8 days, I never degreed cams. Just popped em in and broke em in, smoke tires, move on. None of this prep for the stage II kit will even make a difference in your daily driving without a turbo. Cost you about $600. Pop motor back in and save up your scratch until you open that #10 can of wallet and get that stage II kit.

should i just jump straight into a stage 2 kit then? honestly i'm happy with the bike now.. just nobody around here seems to have a turbo busa. the $600 prep for that kit isn't all that bad either, i thought i would need more to keep from breaking
 
If you think you may want more horsepower than what a Stg1 provides down the road,then do yourself a favor and build the engine for a Stg2/400rwhp now. This means a turbo motor build: turbo pistons,rods,studs,HD output shaft,cut trans,lock-up clutch,etc,etc. You will save thousands later by going into the engine once. You can now enjoy your Stg1 and when you get bored,just upgrade the fuel system with secondary's and a Microtech.

Once you get a taste of boost,there is no turning back. You will want more&more. So start off the right way,build a solid engine now and then throw as much boost as the engine can handle. There are no short-cut's when you build a turbo bike the right way. Any way you look at it it's very expensive to do it correctly.
You either pay now,or pay twice or even 3x as much later when you blow your junk up and youre looking at a pile of expensive melted parts.
 
i feared that, it was the same way with my car.. $40,000 in mods later i still just want to go faster.. at least with the bike it's cheaper haha, what would you recommend for head spacer and adjustable cam sprockets? as far as brand, also i don't know much about the companies that make parts for our cycles, all i've really heard about is mr turbo, rcc, and yoshimura..

also, that tuner is in nevada, i know of a reputable one in kansas city, if there is anywhere closer i will definitely jump on that, i would think there has to be one somewhere in chicago. if i can get a for sure from a tuner/shop then i'll jump on the rcc kit, otherwise it'll just be a paperweight

There's Brian at Win Racing in Naperville,never heard anything bad said about him.

Maintenance Mode

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Win-Racing/157106767663044
 
Oldgixxer knows his stuff. I was trying to lead you more toward a stage II which RCC will tell you can run with the studs, adj sprox, and head spacer. RCC says, and Boosted Cycle will confirm, that 300rwhp with those mods is doable. What Oldgixxer is saying is that you will quickly also tire of that. Meaning pistons, HD shafts, etc. Keep in mind, these HP parts for a busa are expensive per se in that you dont have conglomerates like summit and everybody trying to compete. But, they are made by ARP and the big names in forged/shot-peened/micro-fluxed/heat treated/tefloncoated/forgedwithheartsofgreatwhitesharks/etc. But it is only a 4 cylinder. You just need quality low compression pistons to prevent detonation and bending something. And from all I read, the stock crank is the way to go even for 400hp or more. Just get it checked. No need to deck the block, acid dip, 50 bolt mains/cross-drilled, etc that we do with car motors to turn the revs. It is seemingly already designed to do that. You dont have to have the heads swirled/polished/30wayvalvejob/machineshoptakes2weeks@$2k but it looks like guys put in HD valve springs so we arent getting taken to the cleaners from the machine shop like a BBC. From what I gather, Oldgixxer's recipe isnt that expensive. Get your tranny undercut for less than $500 and an HP output shaft, done. No $1000 torque converter and manual valve body/forged casing TH400.

To be honest, he has me scheming to buy a gen 1 motor from a salvage roller and build a little at a time. It is the turbo that will cost you. It is in fact the ultra plenum that will be your massive investment. Intercooled, water-injected, detonation proof, secondary injectors, boost controller interface, runboostuntilyourthrottlebodiescanthandlemorefuel. That thing costs. A lot. A lot more than anything else you will pay for. If you buy any other plenum, like me, I am stuck with my stage 1 which is now not enough for me. If you upgrade to a stage II with secondary injectors and a controller but not the ultra, a little more affordable. Still, the ultra. The precious that Golem wants. This is the key to running boost without detonation.

The reason I am telling you to ride your bike to its hardest now is that I completely underestimated what it would take 1 rear wheel to put power to the ground in a controllable fashion. I was used to the 12 bolt rear with 4.56, ladder bar recipe. No my friend. This is a new ball game. Think about the things outside of the turbo that will allow you to put 400rwhp to the ground and you and the bike not into the stands at the track. 230ish hp made me completely renovate my wheelbase and shock (which I took the cheap route and now have to go back and get the $1k tuned specifically for me and my bike and takes 4 weeks to make). You will see guys here with stage 1 kits with stock wheelbase. Fine, that is their bike and they can do what they want. But you will have to leave the line at the tree like a stop light whilst the kid in the other lane with the grudge zx14 puts at least a full second on your machine you spent huge $ on. Save your money up, research. Build a motor while you ride your bike now. Or go with a stage 2.

Understand too that 400rwhp is not what it appears. It isnt 400rwhp in 1st or even 2nd gear. You cant do that. Boost controllers allow you to put that level of power in when your wheel can handle it.
 
This means a turbo motor build: turbo pistons,rods,studs,HD output shaft,cut trans,lock-up clutch,etc,etc. You will save thousands later by going into the engine once.

From what I gather, Oldgixxer's recipe isnt that expensive. Get your tranny undercut for less than $500 and an HP output shaft, done.

Was expensive to me:dunno:
Built turbo engine to handle Stg2 power on a daily basis(400-425rwhp)is pretty darn costly;$4000+ at a bare minumum. Good rods and good turbo pistons will set you back $1500-1700 alone depending on what brand you use. It add's up,trust me;)
 
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