and "the problem" was me!
as if it could've been anything else.
"the problem": actually began the day i R&R the exhaust cam for the first time...as i should've zip-tied the cam chain to both the exhaust and intake side cam sprockets...but i didn't...i had only zip-tied the intake cam...and when i removed the CCT and the top damper?...The shid sprung and jumped..almost violently..which in hindsight is how i initially lost position on the exhaust cam and when i tried to get the exhaust cam sprocket arrow back on mark?..i encountered pressure on the cam lobes and didn't wanna believe there should've been any at all....and then?..and in my attempts to realign the arrow?..it seemed to be like "1/2 A Tooth" off..and now i know that "THAT" was due to having too much slack still in the cam chain..so...i took my best guess and was wrong..by one tooth..and when i corrected that?.."I"...ditzed out and never double checked my intake cam position....where in effect?...my correction of the exhaust cam..in turn...knocked my intake cam back a tooth...and this went on a couple times as i fought trying to figure things out until the wisdom of the cam gods (or my mothers prayers
) finally smiled upon me and i figured it all out as described in the following....
"Cam Timing Lessons Learned"
1. Even When You Think You've Got It Nailed?: with all three timing marks in their proper respective positions?..you MUST physically/manually turn the crank over several times (With The CCT & Top Damper In Place) let'er click outwards and "then" re-inspect timing positions.
2. USE AN INSPECTION MIRROR: on your intake cam sprocket to make certain the arrow is aligned straight up as i found it extremely easy to parallex by one tooth when looking at it from the side as you would have to with the frame spar blocking any straight on view.
3. "YES": there will be valve spring tension against the cams as you re-assy...(this is where i fugged up big as that's exactly what "the initial almosy violent jump was about) at the initial dis-assy..that an extra zip-tie on my exhaust cam would've prevented and started all this shid.
4. TRYING TO RE-ASSY WITH TOO MUCH CAM CHAIN SLACK: will give you that "1/2 Tooth Off" condition..and you can't be certain your arrows are gonna line up correctly UNTIL TENSION IS PLACED ON THE CAM CHAIN via the CCT, Top Damper annnnnd?...Manually rotating the engine a few times..."THEN"...and only then..if the marks still line up?..ya got it.
so...yes...i'm disgusted with my own stupidity...but i managed to wade through my own ignorance and get'er done!
and i did it so many times now?..i finaly got it...with practice!
L8R, Bill.
as if it could've been anything else.
"the problem": actually began the day i R&R the exhaust cam for the first time...as i should've zip-tied the cam chain to both the exhaust and intake side cam sprockets...but i didn't...i had only zip-tied the intake cam...and when i removed the CCT and the top damper?...The shid sprung and jumped..almost violently..which in hindsight is how i initially lost position on the exhaust cam and when i tried to get the exhaust cam sprocket arrow back on mark?..i encountered pressure on the cam lobes and didn't wanna believe there should've been any at all....and then?..and in my attempts to realign the arrow?..it seemed to be like "1/2 A Tooth" off..and now i know that "THAT" was due to having too much slack still in the cam chain..so...i took my best guess and was wrong..by one tooth..and when i corrected that?.."I"...ditzed out and never double checked my intake cam position....where in effect?...my correction of the exhaust cam..in turn...knocked my intake cam back a tooth...and this went on a couple times as i fought trying to figure things out until the wisdom of the cam gods (or my mothers prayers
"Cam Timing Lessons Learned"
1. Even When You Think You've Got It Nailed?: with all three timing marks in their proper respective positions?..you MUST physically/manually turn the crank over several times (With The CCT & Top Damper In Place) let'er click outwards and "then" re-inspect timing positions.
2. USE AN INSPECTION MIRROR: on your intake cam sprocket to make certain the arrow is aligned straight up as i found it extremely easy to parallex by one tooth when looking at it from the side as you would have to with the frame spar blocking any straight on view.
3. "YES": there will be valve spring tension against the cams as you re-assy...(this is where i fugged up big as that's exactly what "the initial almosy violent jump was about) at the initial dis-assy..that an extra zip-tie on my exhaust cam would've prevented and started all this shid.
4. TRYING TO RE-ASSY WITH TOO MUCH CAM CHAIN SLACK: will give you that "1/2 Tooth Off" condition..and you can't be certain your arrows are gonna line up correctly UNTIL TENSION IS PLACED ON THE CAM CHAIN via the CCT, Top Damper annnnnd?...Manually rotating the engine a few times..."THEN"...and only then..if the marks still line up?..ya got it.
so...yes...i'm disgusted with my own stupidity...but i managed to wade through my own ignorance and get'er done!
and i did it so many times now?..i finaly got it...with practice!
L8R, Bill.