I need to make to-do lists

FLCN72

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My strator cover was the last part that needed to be replaced on my bike. It was scratched and I had a replacement ready to go on, the next time I changed my oil.

Well, today I changed my oil. Drained it out, plugged it back up, and filled it with nice, fresh oil... But I didn't replace the strator cover while the engine was empty of oil...

Ooops. I'm dumb. I guess the part will have to wait until the NEXT time I change the oil. :sad:
 
Don't worry about it FLCN72, the oil drains lower than the stator cover as long as you are on a rear stand and not the side stand. I have had mine off twice and it was full of oil. Granted that there is about a teaspoon of residual oil that dosen't drain completely and will drip on the floor when you pull the case. But that would happen if it were empty. Just be sure to do the work inside - out of the wind and dust. You don't want that stuff in your box.

If you haven't pulled the case before it is a suprize. The magnets for the Stator are on the case and will resist you trying to pull it off. And if you don't get it all the way off, they will pull it back on with a snap. I expected the gasket to give up and then it would slide off easy - BUT NO! Suzuki put little tabs on the edge of the case to pull on once you get it loose from the gasket. I freed it up with a tap of a rubber mallet. You will need a replacement gasket and some gasket seal. The good book suggests that you put a small smooth layer of RTV sealant on the seams where the two halves of the crank case come together. It is applied to where the gasket will sit for about half an inch to each side of the cracks. That is allowed to dry before installing the gasket. I clean the case first where the entire gasket will seat with brake cleaner on a clean rag/towel. That will allow the sealant to grip well. It won't on oil film. The gasket I install dry on the case over the registration pins that stick out. torque them to 7 ft-lbs in three steps. 4 lbs then 6 pounds then finally 7 lbs. Use a star pattern on the bolts like you would install a tire on your truck. It won't leak using this technique. At least it hasn't for me.
 
with situations like this FLCN , or like say forgeting to put on a new filter and its already the next day or something...dont sweat it , drain the oil ,strain it if ya can and once you've done the job(the filter,oil pan gasket,etc etc,whatever) just chuck the oil back in . Look at it like this....the oil is fresh , it was just in the motor , what the h3ll , thro it back in , especially if you just spent 10 bucks a qrt on snythy or something .

have a good 1....RSD.
 
Thanks guys. Great walk-through there, SierraFlyer. I'll look into tackling that strator cover in a few days. I might try to remove and replace without draining the oil. I guess I can drain, strain, and refill like RSD mentioned if I have to.

ICE, I have moved those LED taillights I got from you, into the stock red tail light lens assembly. Man, it rocks. Looks stock until you fire them up... Reason I did it was to make the light more visable from the sides. This way it lights up the whole red reflector and from straight back it is blindingly bright. It was an easy mod, just a little time with the dremmel and some longer screws to hold the base plates. If you want I can posts some pics of the set-up.
 
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