I need help please.......

[illuminati]

Hey .orgster's

I have an 08 busa and it's just started having some acceleration issues. When I twist it full throttle, the rpm's go to 7k.....then when I roll off the throttle a hair, it goes to 13k. I did use petrick's program and the wire that ? made to take off the rev limiter and speed limiter but I don't think that has ANYTHING to do with it.

I took it to a suzuki dealer and they hooked it up to the computer but there was no code from the ECU.

Please .orgsters let me know what you think!!!

 

[DevilDawg1]

Remove the petrixs program and the wire, and see what happens.

 

[illuminati]

Did it...... Problem still remains!

 

[StromBusa]

You've got big time safety problem, roll off the gas & the rev's climb?? No good can come of that. I'd think it had to do with the mods, else check cables, linkages. I would not ride it!

 

[Fastfrog007]

The tach reads thats its goin up to 13k or the bike accelerates?

 

[illuminati]

No......when I roll full throttle it only goes up to 7k rpm. But if I back off a hair, it will go to 13k rpm. Basically I can't roll on the gas fully.....I have to go almost fully and the bike will accelerate almost full throttle. If I release the throttle it wil decelerate just fine.....

 

[sixpack577]

Maybe when you hit it wide open the first time, the throttle cable somewhere binds or hangs, not allowing the actual throttle valves themselves to open, the position it hangs just so happens to be at 7 grand. Backing off and twisting again frees up whatever stopped it the first time. Maybe your throttle cable/linkage is stretched very slightly, possibly around the round fitting on the end of it.
I've seen this happen on older, very worn bikes, although I'm sure your bike is in good shape. One good hard twist of the wrist could be all it took.
That's all I think it could possibly be, Assuming as you said it's not in the engine itself.

 

[red1100cc]

yea, what 6pack said. check your cables.

 

[071300r]

obstruction with the cables and it needs a hair back off to acheive full throttle, any handle bar work?

 

[CTK1]

Any binding when you turn the bars full right and then full left?
I would inspect the cables and make sure they are properly adjusted...Like the others have posted before me.
Hope you figure it out.

 

[StromBusa]

Could possibly be related to the fuel filter.

 

[illuminati]

I checked the cable....no pinches. What I did notice though is that with the tank lifted, so I can see the trireme body, when I twist it full throttle, I can watch the bar which the butterfly valves turn on, it won't turn right away and gets hung up.......any ideas?

 

[Tufbusa]

I have a great idea!

Put a scatter shield on that fooker so it don't gut you if it decides to scatter itself. Bypassing the rev-limiter is fine if you protect your carcass in case she comes apart!

 

[rusheriv]

At the throttle bodies, pull the cables off the throttle linkage and check if the butterfly valves move (open/close) freely.
Check that the butterfly valves themselves are connected proper to the linkage, no missing screws.
If that checks out okay then check the handlebar end of the cables.
Open up the throttle/switch housing, checking that the cables are laying in there correctly, free from binding and that the grip turns freely.
If that checks out okay then the only other thing to check is the cables themselves. Check for any broken strands, kinks and that they move freely in/out. Lube them if needed.

 

[illuminati]

So the motor for the secondaries is faulty. The only way to get the motor is to buy an entirely new throttle body!!! Does anyone that has a drag bike have a secondary butterfly motor?

 

[sixpack577]

Take the secondaries out, I did, as well as several others, with no ill effects. Try it this way until you can fix it, you just might like it. No way I'de ever put mine back.

 

[sixpack577]

And that's just removing the plates themselves, 2 screws each. Leave the rod and servo motor. Bike has more bottom end power available sooner without the secondaries to regulate/restrict the airflow.

 

[sixpack577]

I checked the cable....no pinches. What I did notice though is that with the tank lifted, so I can see the trireme body, when I twist it full throttle, I can watch the bar which the butterfly valves turn on, it won't turn right away and gets hung up.......any ideas?

Are you sure they are your problem? As the secondaries open at a slower rate than the primaries. Is this with the engine running or not?

 

[PetriK]

If not a binding throttle cable or vacuum leak you can quite easily check the TPS and STP sensor adjustments. With engine on, but not running, connect the interface and use the engine data mode to look at the values.

- What do you see as your TPS value for idle ie not touching the throttle (1.2)?
- Turn throttle full open, what TPS value you see (100) ?
- At left hand lower corner you see STP, what value is that (100) ?

Turn the engine on, let it idle
- At left hand lower corner you see STP, what value is that (10) ?

Please let us know this requested info to make educated quessing of the root cause.

 

[coop65sr]

I am not sure from your description but it sounds like you are having the same type issue I am having with my Gen I.... I accelerated fine up to about 80%, but from 80 % to 100 % my FUEL PUMP was going bad.... at WOT my bike would stumble and not run correctly but it was from not enough fuel being supplied by the fuel pump.... I could back off the throttle just slightly and it accelerated hard just fine.... on the dyno we discovered this (put a pressure test on the pump and sure enough at about 80% throttle the pressure would start dropping off)--- just changed out my pump this weekend and am headed back to the dyno Saturday to get the tune done...
All the while, I NEVER got a "FI" red light on the instrument panel, my TPS position indication on the display is correct (in the middle position)--- no other errors....just the fuel pump crapping out on me... You may want to have this looked at--- I would have never known my pump was going out on me because it would run fine under most common circumstances (70-90 mph cruising)... Don't run WOT all the time so I did not know the problem was coming on.
I continued to run the pump for a couple months because I had to come up with the funds to replace first... and during this time it progressively got worse, so finally got to replace it this weekend-- after tune to get the a/f ratio back in line I should be good to go!!!