I need Break Help

[MN72Busa]

I've just about had it with this brake system. Got the rear & clutch switched to Galfer lines, but I cant for the life of me get all the air bubbles out of the front lines. Been at this project for 5 frickin hours.

My brake bleeder is holding 20 to 35 lbs...only took me 2 1/2 hours to figgure out how to get a seal on the darn thing.

Anyhow, all fittings on the front arnt leaking, just bleeding a ton of air after i pump the brake lever and open the bleed valve. Im closing the bleed valve right as the brake lever bottoms out- what am I doing wrong here? Already went through 1 bottle of brake fluid. Im starting to get some tension in the front brake lever, but my skin is almost melting off from this brake fluid.

All fittings are torqued correctly, washers in correct places. I can say the both bolts to the clutch system were extremely tight, but all is working well with the cluthc and rear...just the front is slaying me. Help!

 

[MN72Busa]

oh...keeping resivor full, and no air bubbles comming out of the resivor. Does it matter if I have the cover on or not? Either way I get airbubbles! On the front Im running a 2 line system and both lines getting air bubbles.



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[BusaWizard]

Squeeze the brake lever 3-4 times while holding the brake lever open the bleeder screw, when the lever bottoms close the bleeder repeat on both sides until nothing but fluid comes out of bleeder.

 

[stkr00]

You stated that you're maintaining 25-30 lbs on the system

Are you sure that it's not 25-30 inches of Vacuum?

If you're using a vacuum bleeder setup like the Mighty-Vac, then you'll be drawing a vacuum on the brake caliper bleeder screws. You should have the resvoir cover installed with the rubber diaphram. Keep the resevoir filled so that you can see a level in it at ALL times. Only bleed a very small amount out a time. Try to switch sides often to make sure you're getting ou the air from both sides and one isn't feeding the other.

You should start to see a difference soon if you're already starting to feel resistance.

Good Luck

 

[MN72Busa]

Squeeze the brake lever 3-4 times while holding the brake lever open the bleeder screw, when the lever bottoms close the bleeder repeat on both sides until nothing but fluid comes out of bleeder.

been doing that for hours

 

[motrhedd]

Beg borrow or steal a mighty vac,or a Vacula.They usally work or what he said.You could try opening bleeders and let gravity do some bleeding for you too

 

[MN72Busa]

You stated that you're maintaining 25-30 lbs on the system

Are you sure that it's not 25-30 inches of Vacuum?

If you're using a vacuum bleeder setup like the Mighty-Vac, then you'll be drawing a vacuum on the brake caliper bleeder screws. You should have the resvoir cover installed with the rubber diaphram. Keep the resevoir filled so that you can see a level in it at ALL times. Only bleed a very small amount out a time. Try to switch sides often to make sure you're getting ou the air from both sides and one isn't feeding the other.

You should start to see a difference soon if you're already starting to feel resistance.

Good Luck

Your correct...Vacuum Pressure. Im using a craftsman model, just like the MightyVac, but mad by sears...lol.

I will try the resivor cover on again...should I screw it down, or just have rubber diaphram inserted on top than plastic piece sitting on top of it like I have been doing?

Only bleed small amount at a time? press lever/ open valve / close when lever bottoms out/ repeat?

I hope I see something besides bubbles soon...I mean its starting to look like an aquarium in here.

 

[rob t]

fill the res have somone pull the lever a couple times have them hold the lever pulled in. on like the 3rd squeeze you open the bleeder air comes out(with fluid)while the lever is still held in you close the valve.do this until all air is out .(watching the res doesnt emty.no need for vac or cover on.where do you live.any otherguys that can do it with ya ?its easy with two people.put a hose on the bleeder into a container.



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[motrhedd]

You can bleed with cover on or off.It doesnt matter,if you bleed with it on the rubber diaphram will fill the void you create by removing the fluid through the bleeder.Just make sure you dont run it dry or you,ll be starting over again.Be patiant,fronts can be finicky but you will eventually get it.Good luck

 

[Sane_man]

I paid my local bike mechanic $40 to install my Galfer lines. It took him 15 minutes using a home-made vacuum bleeder made from an old brake fluid container.

I've heard too many horror stories about bleeding front brakes, so I had better things to do with my time.

Good Luck!

 

[PR111]

I gave up on my Mighty Vac after 1/2 hour and just switched to the normal bleed method as mentioned by others (pump lever 3-4 times till tension and open the bleed screw; repeat - reservoir is closed/screwed-in). The Mighty vac only came in handy to get the fluid into the lines initially.

 

[Wag]

I had a similar problem waya back when and it eventually started working but for the life of me, I couldn't tell you what I did to get it working.

Keep at it, you'll get it.

--Wag--

 

[Turbo-Torch]

I gave up on my Mighty Vac after 1/2 hour and just switched to the normal bleed method as mentioned by others (pump lever 3-4 times till tension and open the bleed screw; repeat - reservoir is closed/screwed-in).  The Mighty vac only came in handy to get the fluid into the lines initially.

The mityvac can actually make bleeding a nightmare on some vehicles.
What people don't realize is that when you get 25 to 30" of vacuum, you're pulling the caliper pistons back and sucking air in around the piston seals.

 

[Sloto200]

Did you ever get your brakes bled?? If not i would try doing it with out the "bleeder" hooked up...hope everything worked out!!

 

[ks-waterbug]

Did mine with a $5 plastic bottle from Autozone! Keep at it as said above its no picnic, but it will finally take..........

 

[nitrousjunkie]

Beg borrow or steal a mighty vac,or a Vacula.They usally work or what he said.You could try opening bleeders and let gravity do some bleeding for you too

+ 1,be patient and dont give up.And what ever you do, dont drive it till all the air is gone and you have good pedal and lever feel.

 

[MN72Busa]

Update:

Everythinig is now working. Just took my time, and got all the air out - the fronts took alot longer than I thought they would, but all done thanks to the help of the members here. Havent been able to test the brakes, but Pedal/ lever feel is quite stiffer than stock. Also, I couldn't believe the cheesey stock clutch cable...the new line appears to be quite an upgrade over stock - cant wait to try them this spring. Thanks again for everyone's help

 

[GSXRme]

Update:

Everythinig is now working. Just took my time, and got all the air out - the fronts took alot longer than I thought they would, but all done thanks to the help of the members here. Havent been able to test the brakes, but Pedal/ lever feel is quite stiffer than stock. Also, I couldn't believe the cheesey stock clutch cable...the new line appears to be quite an upgrade over stock - cant wait to try them this spring. Thanks again for everyone's help

Did you buy the tool? I had the same problem with the clutch line as this topic was going. I just got the tool and took me 3mins to bleed the line.

Break bleeder Vac was $25 at auto zone and is worth $40+ for saving me the time and fluid

 

[BusaWizard]

Glad it worked out for you. Patience is virtue.

 

[zukracer]

see, when I clicked into this thread I was all ready with the

"its that lever on the right and that pedel on the right" .... but good to see the thread was more insightful than that answer

Also great to see some of the advice from folks, cuz I'll be doing this mod in the coming months and will have to come back and read this one again