I bought an intercom that I need a 12v power supply. It says to use the tail lights power line to get it. I'm comfortable cutting the line and soldering mine in with it and wrapping it with some electrical tape. I just don't know where to find or how to expose the wire itself. Anyone with experience doing this please help. Thanks.
I need 12v in the tail area (under passenger seat)
- Thread starter gtoinlv
- Start date
You're probably just better off runnin' straight off the battery and using a fusible link and a switch. I'm not sure how much your system draws but it may blow your brake light fuse while riding and no break lights kinda sucks.
Oh yea, no electrical tape please!! Use shrink tubing.
If you reach behind the "storage box" (up and over the plastic), you will find a connector going to the tail light... If you can't reach it, you will have to pop off the rear fairing completely which is easy and only takes about 15 minutes... (if you need instructions, I could provide in easy steps)
I am with everyone else though... go straight from the battery and don't tap your tail light power... Why is it telling you not to run directly off the battery? It may be stating because of the continous power supply in which case, you could run a switch which has already been said.
I am with everyone else though... go straight from the battery and don't tap your tail light power... Why is it telling you not to run directly off the battery? It may be stating because of the continous power supply in which case, you could run a switch which has already been said.
Cloud 9 I can feel the two wires but there isnt enough slack to get to them. Those fairing removal instructions would be helpful. As far as connecting directly to the battery. I just know it say not to do because of risk of fire etc etc... I think you are all right though..if properly fused...and with a switch you could achieve the same result... However the manufacturer specifically suggest the tail light and if that is not suitable then to use any other 12v,fused/ignition switched power source.....because the unit is mounted under the passeger seat and is basically right next to the tail light..I guess that's why they recommend it.
"also you don't have to mess with flipping a switch everytime you use it or accidentally forgetting to turn the switch off.... "
that is true...
alright here we go...
1. Take front/rear seats/hump off.
2. Your bike probably has the two posts towards the front of the rear seat for mounting. You will need to take both of those off. Pop the plastic caps off the end if they are still on and then use the approriate alan wrench to take them off.
3. There are 6 push caps on the button of the fairing. push the centers to pop them out. (three on each side of the bike)
4. In the center where the fairing meets right between the front and rear seat, you will see two more push caps. Push the centers and pop them out. Take out the center divider.
5. There are two phillips screws on the top below where the hump snaps in... (They have rubber around them) Take those off.
6. Disconnect the trunk snap. (Don't forget to reconnect it before you put the hump back on... !!!!)
7. Remove the two alan bolts right where the fairing starts on the sides below the front seat.
8. The fairing should slide back and as it slides back, look for the connector. In order to fully remove the fairing, you would need to disconnect it anyway...
Hope this helps...
Don't think I forgot anything, but use your common sense. Don't force it and if there is any bolts that you see I forgot to mention, just take them off and don't think about it too hard...
Cloud
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Reason for Edit: None given...|1085550189 -->
that is true...
alright here we go...
1. Take front/rear seats/hump off.
2. Your bike probably has the two posts towards the front of the rear seat for mounting. You will need to take both of those off. Pop the plastic caps off the end if they are still on and then use the approriate alan wrench to take them off.
3. There are 6 push caps on the button of the fairing. push the centers to pop them out. (three on each side of the bike)
4. In the center where the fairing meets right between the front and rear seat, you will see two more push caps. Push the centers and pop them out. Take out the center divider.
5. There are two phillips screws on the top below where the hump snaps in... (They have rubber around them) Take those off.
6. Disconnect the trunk snap. (Don't forget to reconnect it before you put the hump back on... !!!!)
7. Remove the two alan bolts right where the fairing starts on the sides below the front seat.
8. The fairing should slide back and as it slides back, look for the connector. In order to fully remove the fairing, you would need to disconnect it anyway...
Hope this helps...
Don't think I forgot anything, but use your common sense. Don't force it and if there is any bolts that you see I forgot to mention, just take them off and don't think about it too hard...
Cloud
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Reason for Edit: None given...|1085550189 -->
"5. There are two phillips screws on the top below where the hump snaps in... (They have rubber around them) Take those off."
One is on so tight that the screw head stripped.... damn it..my new bike... I hope I can order a new one...in the meantime i don't know how i can get it out..... everything else is already off according to your instructions.
One is on so tight that the screw head stripped.... damn it..my new bike... I hope I can order a new one...in the meantime i don't know how i can get it out..... everything else is already off according to your instructions.
If you can get to the screw head with a Dremel you can slot it and use a blade screwdriver to remove it or just drill the head off. Don't rush it.
Also a handy hint if you get any noise from the break light power (hope you don't) a .22uf tantalum capacitor between +ve and ground will usually smooth out any high freq crap. Best to wack it in as close to the unit as poss.
Cheers
Ross
Also a handy hint if you get any noise from the break light power (hope you don't) a .22uf tantalum capacitor between +ve and ground will usually smooth out any high freq crap. Best to wack it in as close to the unit as poss.
Cheers
Ross
yea, those phillips are on their tight... Make sure you use a "big" head phillips and this will help not to strip...
I second the dremel idea on the screw...
If there is some grip left on the head of the screw, try a larger phillips head on it... I was about to strip mine too, but I changed to a bigger phillips and that did the trick... The stripping seems to generally come because there is too much play between your screwdriver and screwhead.
Also, push down hard as you are turning. If the screwdriver slips out, this also generally causes further stripping ...
Remember...
lefty; loosy
righty: tighty
Worst case scenario, you can drill it out...
Cloud
<!--EDIT|Cloud9
Reason for Edit: None given...|1085604823 -->
I second the dremel idea on the screw...
If there is some grip left on the head of the screw, try a larger phillips head on it... I was about to strip mine too, but I changed to a bigger phillips and that did the trick... The stripping seems to generally come because there is too much play between your screwdriver and screwhead.
Also, push down hard as you are turning. If the screwdriver slips out, this also generally causes further stripping ...
Remember...
lefty; loosy
righty: tighty
Worst case scenario, you can drill it out...
Cloud
<!--EDIT|Cloud9
Reason for Edit: None given...|1085604823 -->
Well... i went to bed on it..unable to remove the screw... woke up fresh this morning and had an idea... you know the screwdriver that is in the tool pouch..it has phillips and flat and in the middle of it there are two "wings" protruding from it... whatever you want to call them. I used channel locks on those wings and put the handle of the screwdriver on top of them and just pressed as hard as I could... it worked. THE GOOD NEWS IS... I immediately disconnected the quick connector to the tail lights...cut the red (actually it isn't red colored) line to the lights and I soldered my wire into it per exact instructions.... I grounded to the negative battery terminal...and guess what. IT'S ALIVE!!! Now maybe this seems silly but for me it is an accomplishment.. I started out knowing nothing about how to take the bike apart and I'm proud that I did it... Everything went back together so fast and easily.... I'll replace the stripped screw at some point.... but let me tell you the intercom itself is amazing.... I plugged my MP3 player into it and sound quality far surpasses my expectations... I am very pleased with it.... the coolest thing though is I've plugged my cell phone into it.... and you can talk on the phone as you ride... It is crystal clear..in stereo... and the other person CAN NOT tell your on a bike... I was going 70 talking...and they had no idea.... An amazing product..... as soon as I fit the other helmet with it's headset I'll try out rider to rider communications which is why I got it in the first place.... I can't believe more people don't do this on their Hayabusa... It is the coolest.
The name is Autocom their web site is http://www.autocom.co.uk/
Like I said there is nothing like it... I absolutely love it. The unit itself is only about 2 inches square... it fits perfectly in the back under your passenger seat. When you want to use it it's there... When you don't..everything is just tucked away under the seat. But it Absolutely works exactly as they claim.
Like I said there is nothing like it... I absolutely love it. The unit itself is only about 2 inches square... it fits perfectly in the back under your passenger seat. When you want to use it it's there... When you don't..everything is just tucked away under the seat. But it Absolutely works exactly as they claim.
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