I have one of these coming in the mail .

Install complete . Review = Not as big of a gain on the Hayabusa as other bike models I have done . Install = Easy for me 1 hr . Special notes that instructions
from factory pro do not need to be followed to a T . Water pump = no need to drain water , leave hoses conected just unbolt body/push out of area .
Counter shaft sprocket = Not required to remove with 18 tooth ( OEM factory size ) 17 tooth or 16 . 19 tooth or larger must be removed .
Do I recommend this mod ? Only if you race the bike or have money to burn . I'm disappointed as it does not aid with the 5th to 6th ghost / false neutral as advertised .

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Important dont lose or misplace shift shaft spacer/washers seen in pictures below

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Updates c10?

As millage has gone up the shifting is super smooth . I run GP shift , and the install of a Sato Racing short throw shift arm has made shifts extremely short . @ 23,000 miles I still have the occasional 5 to 6 ghost neutral. Billy at Robinson industries said its due to the 5 dog count vs gen 1 3 dogs .
One day Ill split the cases , and send the trans off to Billy for a overdrive 5th / 6th , and back cutting .
 
As millage has gone up the shifting is super smooth . I run GP shift , and the install of a Sato Racing short throw shift arm has made shifts extremely short . @ 23,000 miles I still have the occasional 5 to 6 ghost neutral. Billy at Robinson industries said its due to the 5 dog count vs gen 1 3 dogs .
One day Ill split the cases , and send the trans off to Billy for a overdrive 5th / 6th , and back cutting .

I thought about running GP shift with my Driven rearsets. Would be my luck the first ride I'd forget and slam into the wrong gear.
 
Not hard, but you need to by a cheap 8 mm wrench to bend for the bottom right bolt as frame is in the way. I cut a grove in mine once off got a flat blade drive to speed future services. Tighten with wrench after seating
 
As millage has gone up the shifting is super smooth . I run GP shift , and the install of a Sato Racing short throw shift arm has made shifts extremely short . @ 23,000 miles I still have the occasional 5 to 6 ghost neutral. Billy at Robinson industries said its due to the 5 dog count vs gen 1 3 dogs .
One day Ill split the cases , and send the trans off to Billy for a overdrive 5th / 6th , and back cutting .
I started to follow this thread when the question about an update was asked, hoping you would say that the 5th to 6th issue eventually went away after your mileage increased with this part on the bike, but no luck. I wish there was an easy fix for that annoying problem.
 
I always wondered how good these really are. I'm too broke to spend the money on something I don't know about. keep us informed !!
I have one on my ZX-14 and for that bike, I couldn't tell a difference between the brand new Evo with ceramic bearings in detent arm and the slightly worn stock one with 44k miles on it. The 14's shifting got better with a lot of miles so maybe the Evo does too so there might be an advantage if you put one in early.

I can see how the shape of the lobes on the Evo should make it smoother and also less likely to misshift into N. As for ceramic bearings, they cost quite a bit more and I don't think they will ever amount to much even after they polish in against the plastic race. The ceramics absolutly do not spin as as smoothly as steel when new. I had both Evo detent arms and the steel one spun more revotutions with a hard spin and it felt smoother under my finger tip than the ceramic. Mark of Faactory Pro said the ceramic has to polish the race before it reaches optimum non-friction. IDK....if the EVO shift star really was like night and day, I might buy that.

If my 14 starts shifting way better that the busa after 10 k miles, I will buy one for the busa but I must agree, the busa has a nice shift stock shift quality as long as the oil is good. The busa shifted smoother than the 14 from day 1 but the 14 got as good after much use.

From what I remember, the busa EVO shift star uses the stock detent arm so no concerns about ceramic or steel bearings. The spring is stiffer but that I cannot feel during shifting either.
 
before I installed shift star on gen 1, you could hear 2 clicks while shifting up with clutch in-gauged. after the install it was only I click. I had a habit of not fully upshiftging 1st to 2nd and would go in neutral when really pushing it.
 
My shift star from factory pro was lighter than stock . FYI I have more Ti in my watch list . pull trigger next week or so .
OK, If it's lighter, I'm getting one!

I really have no problems missing shifts with the stock setup though. If it does it, it's when the oil is getting worn out. About 2000-2500 miles. It might not want to shift down to 1 from a high gear as I roll to a stopsign too but after an oil change, it is really flawless. I can't remember ever missing a gear. I always have used the clutch but I shift the instant I pull the lever.
 
The most convenient time to do it is when you change clutch plates but for most of us, that will be years of riding.
 
From the pictures, I can see there is a difference in the diameters of the stock shift star and the EVO. That should make the required throw shorter in the shift pedal. That was not really the case with the ZX-14. Both the EVO and the stock shift star are the same size. The stock Suzuki shift star does have rounded lobes like the EVO has. The stock 14 shift star has lobes that are very pointy almost like an actual 6 pointed star.
 
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