I can't solve overheating with modified busa. Help please

The problem might be the thermostat being stuck open allowing coolant to flow too fast through the radiator and cannot cool fast enough.
I'd put a new thermostat in it and try it again.
That isn't really how cooling systems work. The thermostat will be wide open once the coolant is at a temperature where it is capable to boil. The job of a thermostat is to increase the temperature of the coolant so the engine is at operating temperature. Once the coolant is at operating temperature, the thermostat no longer has a job, unless the heat generation decreases and the coolant temp drops. Slowing the flow of the heat transfer medium (coolant) will not make it transfer more heat overall.
 
That isn't really how cooling systems work. The thermostat will be wide open once the coolant is at a temperature where it is capable to boil. The job of a thermostat is to increase the temperature of the coolant so the engine is at operating temperature. Once the coolant is at operating temperature, the thermostat no longer has a job, unless the heat generation decreases and the coolant temp drops. Slowing the flow of the heat transfer medium (coolant) will not make it transfer more heat overall.
Even when the thermostat is fully open it's still is a restriction to flow. Just looking at that thermostat I'd say it's time for a new one.
 
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Is there a solution with using in this setup with no problem?

yes going back to standard piston/cyl-size.

one idea:
eventually the lambda/afr of the big bored is way to lean
what then causes damn hot engine.

starting with your place of starting this post i suppose you have a gen2 (´08-´18) ????

if yes ask around who measured the lambda/afr/co-value of a gen2 WITHOUT catalysts .
 
Even when the thermostat is fully open it's still is a restriction to flow. Just looking at that thermostat I'd say it's time for a new one.

the thermostat only causes high temps if stuck in closed position .

if allways open the engine needs longer time to reach working water temp (middle of the gauge) but usually don´t overheat .

if the water overheats u have another serious issue.
_____________________________________________________

hmmmmmmm ...
did ya bleed the radiator like described her ?
 
Engine Ice.
I have used it in multiple bikes for years, and it works great.
I use distilled water and white vinegar for a coolant flush, and do at least 2 of them, or more if needed, until what's coming out of the removed lower left hose is clear.
Then, fill with Engine Ice.
You can burp the coolant system to get out any big air pockets, but I have found that after the thermostat opens, I just fill the overflow tank to the full line.
Within the first or second ride, the remaining air will escape, and the tank level will drop between midway and low.
Midway is fine, and low will require 2-3 ounces of coolant.
Done.
 
Engine Ice.
I have used it in multiple bikes for years, and it works great.
I use distilled water and white vinegar for a coolant flush, and do at least 2 of them, or more if needed, until what's coming out of the removed lower left hose is clear.
Then, fill with Engine Ice.
You can burp the coolant system to get out any big air pockets, but I have found that after the thermostat opens, I just fill the overflow tank to the full line.
Within the first or second ride, the remaining air will escape, and the tank level will drop between midway and low.
Midway is fine, and low will require 2-3 ounces of coolant.
Done.
Unfortunately i dont have engine ice in turkey
 
After 24 years working in the Aerospace Ground Equipment field I've learn the term KISS. I've asked guys why are you R&R that gas engine, they say it will not run, is their gas in the tank, no it's empty. Walked up to guys removing a diesel generator engine and asked what's wrong and they say it will not run, walked around and notice the exhaust flapper valve was shut closed I opened the valve and said try it now and she fired up. Save them 30K and I could go on. So the OP posted a Pic of his Stat and using KISS I would start there but if you want to tear the engine apart first I guess you could LOL.
 
After 24 years working in the Aerospace Ground Equipment field I've learn the term KISS. I've asked guys why are you R&R that gas engine, they say it will not run, is their gas in the tank, no it's empty. Walked up to guys removing a diesel generator engine and asked what's wrong and they say it will not run, walked around and notice the exhaust flapper valve was shut closed I opened the valve and said try it now and she fired up. Save them 30K and I could go on. So the OP posted a Pic of his Stat and using KISS I would start there but if you want to tear the engine apart first I guess you could LOL.
Sorry i didnt understand your english.
 
I Will put 2 liter motul motocool and 1 liter pure water. I think it Will be much better

hello super smart guy

read the damn recommendations in the manual and stick to a 50/50 mixture

all others can lead to major problems and damage,
no matter
a. where in the world and
b. what outside temps.

2:1 liter is the damn wrong mixture - the hydraulics inside the system is going wrong and the volume of pumped coolant decrease,

a reduced volume again / additionally increases the danger of overheating.
(what was your issue???????????????????)

the heck - before you change something look behind the scenes to understand all!!! influences ur change can cause.
 
@BoldPilot

another fact that can cause issues


Calc in the water

one question about this - how many km has your busa down
and has normal tap water (drinking water from the tap at home) been used in the cooling system and if so for how many km - as of today?

I ask because the calc dissolved in the drinking water precipitates when the cooling water is heated to over 65°C and settles everywhere in the system as a quasi insulating layer,
which then, at some point, results in such great heat insulation that the radiator has too little power and the water gets too hot as a result.
could be, but doesn't have to be.

to be able to really rule everything out, I would at least decalcify the entire cooling system.

by which? with the same (decalcifying) medium that is also used for a coffee machine and that can be bought in household shops.
together with pure, distilled water into the system, let it warm up well (until the fan comes on) and then drain the system and rinse at least 3-5 times with distilled water, letting it warm up each time.

and 4 the future - only destilled water plus glycerin in 50:50
 
@BoldPilot

another fact that can cause issues


Calc in the water

one question about this - how many km has your busa down
and has normal tap water (drinking water from the tap at home) been used in the cooling system and if so for how many km - as of today?

I ask because the calc dissolved in the drinking water precipitates when the cooling water is heated to over 65°C and settles everywhere in the system as a quasi insulating layer,
which then, at some point, results in such great heat insulation that the radiator has too little power and the water gets too hot as a result.
could be, but doesn't have to be.

to be able to really rule everything out, I would at least decalcify the entire cooling system.

by which? with the same (decalcifying) medium that is also used for a coffee machine and that can be bought in household shops.
together with pure, distilled water into the system, let it warm up well (until the fan comes on) and then drain the system and rinse at least 3-5 times with distilled water, letting it warm up each time.

and 4 the future - only destilled water plus glycerin in 50:50
My busa has never have drinking water in the system. But i Will clean my system anyway.
 
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