Howdy Y'all

R

Raputā

Registered
I done paid fer my gen 3 Busa. She'll be here next week, if the dealer keeps to his word.

I had never riden a motorcycle before Feb 2022. Got myself a Suzuki Gixxer 250SF, and rode the hell outta that pretty lil thing, put about 1000 miles on her.

I know it's a big jump, but I'm gon' be cautious, and figure my way round my new big gal, for I let her run wild.

Anyway, first question from me, every video I see of people startin the gen 3, they seem to press down on what looks like the killswitch button, but there is also this button underneath the killswitch, incidentally, this button is in the same place, as the ignition button, on my gixxer, it even looks the same.

So what function, does that button beneath the killswitch, serve on the Busa?
 
Thanks everyone. I've been so excited all weekend :banana:, but the wait is killing me and I've still got another 5 or 6 days to go :sad:. I've watched almost every video/reel, about the bike, out there.

I've even got my settings planned out:

U1 - will be max traction, max anti wheelie, most powerful throttle response, aggressive quick shift and minimal engine braking to prevent rear wheel slipping.

U2 - will be the same as U1, but with anti wheelie completely off.

U1 is for racing and U2 is so that I can learn to control/prevent wheelies with such a poweful machine.

Now that I mention it, all else being equal, shouldn't a rider with maximum wheelie control on, always take off faster than one without?

Because you're allowing a computer to modulate the throttle, and get maximum power to the wheel, without wasting it on a wheelie. I would think that a modern computer is far better at this optimisation than any human...
 
I know that with traction control, there are many variables, and so an expert human, might actually optimise for this better, on a track, than a computer. Hence with traction control off, all else being equal, expert human control can and does result in better times.

But, anti wheelie on take off, seems far more simple, simple enough, that a computer is likely to be better at it.
 
The internet is full of experts on all things so I'm not going to offer you any advice and instead I will just say congrats on your purchase and please keep us up to date on how things progress for you. I'm excited to hear how you get along with your new Busa!
 
Hey guys. Put 250 miles on it already (got it on Friday 14th).

Unfortunately I was making a u-turn whilst heading up a steep slope and I braked to a halt midway, bike didn't fall but it tipped and I couldn't keep holding or get it back up, so I had to put it down as gently as I could.

I'm so fsckn pissed. I now know to never come to a complete halt whilst leaning/full turn on such a heavy motorcycle.

You have to keep throttle, clutch and rear brake going, and always make sure you're moving, then you'll stay up.

I can DL 220lbs for reps, overhead barbell press 120lbs, squat ATG 178lbs, all well into working rep range (baseline - out of gym for a year)... so I'm not a complete weakling... but clearly I need to be stronger to handle it like my gixxer 250.

Dealer wants to replace the fairing, exhaust and side mirror.

Ironic that this thing is easy to maneuver at high speeds but an ox at low speed tight turns... or maybe it's not ironic, just physics.
 
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why???

20221015_104412.jpg


20221015_104426.jpg
 
Oh yeah, and with LF completely off but TC still on 10, I can't get this thing to wheelie at all (just using power). Pop clutch wheelies seem a little difficult for me, couldn't get those working either.

I did manage to come up a bit when trying launch control (4k revs), but I keep stalling it on LC.
 
Raputā said:
Hey guys. Put 250 miles on it already (got it on Friday 14th).

Unfortunately I was making a u-turn whilst heading up a steep slope and I braked to a halt midway, bike didn't fall but it tipped and I couldn't keep holding or get it back up, so I had to put it down as gently as I could.

I'm so fsckn pissed. I now know to never come to a complete halt whilst leaning/full turn on such a heavy motorcycle.

You have to keep throttle, clutch and rear brake going, and always make sure you're moving, then you'll stay up.

I can DL 220lbs for reps, overhead barbell press 120lbs, squat ATG 178lbs, all well into working rep range (baseline - out of gym for a year)... so I'm not a complete weakling... but clearly I need to be stronger to handle it like my gixxer 250.

Dealer wants to replace the fairing, exhaust and side mirror.

Ironic that this thing is easy to maneuver at high speeds but an ox at low speed tight turns... or maybe it's not ironic, just physics.
Click to expand...
That thing is much heavier than 220 lbs....there is a technique to lifting it...You Tube has lots of videos on the subject.

 
Mine was on a fairly steep incline... Luckily someone helped. Would've been very very difficult alone.

I know it's much heavier than 220lbs, but you're not lifting all of it, like you do with a DL, your lifting some portion of it... still very heavy.

If you could easily deadlift way more than the weight of that bike, it would be a joke to control, apart from some awkward handling.

Imagine a Brian Shaw or Eddie Hall type guy handling it.

I agree handling should not need excessive stength, so technique should be good. But if I were even 20-30% stronger, it wouldn't have gone down.
 
Raputā said:
Mine was on a fairly steep incline... Luckily someone helped. Would've been very very difficult alone.

I know it's much heavier than 220lbs, but you're not lifting all of it, like you do with a DL, your lifting some portion of it... still very heavy.

If you could easily deadlift way more than the weight of that bike, it would be a joke to control, apart from some awkward handling.

Imagine a Brian Shaw or Eddie Hall type guy handling it.

I agree handling should not need excessive stength, so technique should be good. But if I were even 20-30% stronger, it wouldn't have gone down.
Click to expand...
They fall over on all of us at one time or another...

I got hit at an intersection on my 1200 Bandit which is no lightweight either...as I was in front of a line of cars (a car cut the corner and knocked me off the bike), I had to pick it up and quickly. I managed it before anyone came to help.

The elderly lady that hit me was pretty shook up and it didn't help that the line of cars behind me were all off duty cops and were pretty intimidating to her.

Watch a few videos of how to lift it and you'll be set for any future mishaps
 
Bumblebee said:
They fall over on all of us at one time or another...

I got hit at an intersection on my 1200 Bandit which is no lightweight either...as I was in front of a line of cars (a car cut the corner and knocked me off the bike), I had to pick it up and quickly. I managed it before anyone came to help.

The elderly lady that hit me was pretty shook up and it didn't help that the line of cars behind me were all off duty cops and were pretty intimidating to her.

Watch a few videos of how to lift it and you'll be set for any future mishaps
Click to expand...
My dealer wants to replace everything, around $3,000 full cost.

Insurance is going to make me pay $1,000 of that, if I claim (penalties for accident with first 3 months, no other person involved, only having my leaners licence and standard 10% excess).

Now I'm thinking of just replacing the foot peg, adding crash protector, and then getting all the scratches sanded down, buffed, filled with body filler or epoxy and then painted/sprayed.

I don't exactly know if all of the above is what they'd do, but I'm fairly certain a decent panel beater could get rid of those scratches, for far less than $1,000, and it would be barely noticeable afterwards.

What do you think?
 
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Raputā said:
My dealer wants to replace everything, around $3,000 full cost.

Insurance is going to make me pay $1,000 of that, if I claim (penalties for accident with first 3 months, no other person involved, only having my leaners licence and standard 10% excess).

Now I'm thinking of just replacing the foot peg, adding crash protector, and then getting all the scratches sanded down, buffed, filled with body filler or epoxy and then painted/sprayed.

I don't exactly know if all of the above is what they'd do, but I'm fairly certain a decent panel beater could get rid of those scratches, for far less than $1,000, and it would be barely noticeable afterwards.

What do you think?
Click to expand...
People here have done it so I know for a fact it's possible, sad to have to do it on a brand new bike though.

If you have to pay a $1000 deductible for $3000 worth of work, you might as well fix it yourself...the good news is there are many people here who can guide you along.
 
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