How to make a gen 2 the best bike you ever owned




Pit Bull 13

Registered
Frank The next six customers who purchase RCC turbo kits - in addition to the org discount offered by POWERHOUSE, and the free RCC T-shirt - will recieve a FREE BOX OF TWINKIES!!

Dose this build count?
 

Craash

Registered
Air to Fuel ration - lets you keep an eye on AF to ensure you aren't too lean.

Fuel Pressure - An important part of your bikes health, it actually helped me and my new builder locate an issue my first builder created with an incorrect setup.

My boost also does vacuum, which I'm sure yours does too. Again, a decent diagnostic tool to add to the overall health of your bike.

I don't have pictures now, but I had a machine shop cut 3 holes in that tiger bracket and my gauges now mount from the bottom with just the face visable on the top side. Creates a much smoother look.

I'm on my way to around 500hp now, and it's been anything other than a smooth trip. Make sure you talk with your builder and he has a PERFECT understanding of what you are looking for.

I'm on my 3 turbo, on 4th hot side. First I had a RCC turbo with a stage 2 hot side. It made good power (300) but it didn't hit till 5K or so. I went with a smaller hot side and that helped it spool a bit faster but I was still disappointed in the overall bike.

I developed a issue where the bike would go way fat and shut off. It would start right back up, but still something wasn't right. It was at this point I choose a different builder.

What he found was the water injection kit was soaking the intake charge. That was why the fuel pressure on the bike was in the 30's becuase the original builder was compensating for the huge amount of water they were pumping in.

Turns out the water pooled in the coolside of the turbo and bent a blade or two on the wheel.

So, I went with a new turbo, and basically we redid my entire setup. I moved to complete ECU control and a water to air intercooler. My HP now went over 400, although we backed it down to 375 or so for the street. 4th gear wheelies at 100+ were common place now. The bike hit HARD at 3K or so and was so smooth . . .

Finially I had what I thought a turbo bike should be. But, the relationship I havebwith my builder was so good that we worked out a plan to do more over the winter.

I'm now moving to a DBB turbo, a larger intercooler and all sorts of fun little upgrades - like studs in the bottom end to match my rods, pistons, valves, etc.

We're expecting 450 or so on pump and over 500 on Race gas.

Keep in mind this is a stock wheel base bike! I love the twisties and I've even taken her to track day at Heartland Park. I have a dedicated track bike now, but I'll still take 'busa for a session or too.



What is all those for? I'm running only one for boost..
 

POWERHOUSE

Frank
Site Sponsor
Registered
The transmission is back, thoroughly gone through and modified by Robinson Industries. In addition to a full undercut on all gears, we are obviously going with a heavy duty output shaft. You can see from the pics what a big difference Robinson's output shaft makes . . . with billet shift shafts, we now have a solid transmission to back up the big hp we expect to make and this motor can start going together . . . :cheerleader:

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POWERHOUSE

Frank
Site Sponsor
Registered
Valve clearances done, cylinder head installed/torqued, cams installed, valve cover with the RCC block off plates installed. Now we have to finish up a few more items on the engine - thermostat mod, breather mod, oil pump, water pump, etc. - while we wait for the finished swingarm from Terry . . . :laugh:

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GoldenChild

DID HE REALLY SAY THAT?
Donating Member
Registered
Frank I got question for you, this the first full blown turbo motor I have seen with no adjustable cam sprockets in a high $$ build. Due to motor angle i can't tell if it has spacer plate. Was no spacer plate used maybe with gen 1 block and gen2 pistons?

Do you just set them back to stock timing specs on a big setup and it works fine?

Nice looking setup...


Valve clearances done, cylinder head installed/torqued, cams installed, valve cover with the RCC block off plates installed. Now we have to finish up a few more items on the engine - thermostat mod, breather mod, oil pump, water pump, etc. - while we wait for the finished swingarm from Terry . . . :laugh:
 

POWERHOUSE

Frank
Site Sponsor
Registered
Was a spacer used in the head?
There is no base spacer plate required on a Gen 2 with Wossner turbo pistons, and because the deck height remains unchanged, the stock cams can be dropped in on the stock marks with no adjustable cam sprockets. Also, because we are running stock bore, a Gen 1 cylinder is not required. For any Gen 2 going turbo, this is a much better approach than the stock pistons, spacer plate and adjustable cam sprockets - by the time you are done with the extra labor involved in degreeing cams and the extra cost of the adjustable sprockets, you would find doing it the way we have done it here is not only less expensive, but better all around.:thumbsup:
 

POWERHOUSE

Frank
Site Sponsor
Registered
Well, it seems our custom swingarm from McIntosh made it to the powdercoater, but didn't make it to POWERHOUSE yet. So, we decided to get the motor into the frame anyway, which is done. We are now getting into the best part of the build: installing and setting up the RCC ULTRA - hands down one of the best kits you can buy. Anytime you install a turbo, you have to pull the oil pan and install the fitting for the turbo drain hose. On this build, we are using the best of everything, so the 1 1/2 DME billet pan with the needle bearing swing pickup is our choice. On any 1 1/2 pan you have to be super careful drilling for the drain fitting, since there is not a lot of extra room . . .:laugh:

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Pit Bull 13

Registered
Well, it seems our custom swingarm from McIntosh made it to the powdercoater, but didn't make it to POWERHOUSE yet. So, we decided to get the motor into the frame anyway, which is done. We are now getting into the best part of the build: installing and setting up the RCC ULTRA - hands down one of the best kits you can buy. Anytime you install a turbo, you have to pull the oil pan and install the fitting for the turbo drain hose. On this build, we are using the best of everything, so the 1 1/2 DME billet pan with the needle bearing swing pickup is our choice. On any 1 1/2 pan you have to be super careful drilling for the drain fitting, since there is not a lot of extra room . . .:laugh:
So with this pan will it help keep oil temp down? Will it still hold the same amount of oil?
 



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