"How to build the perfect 1441" it will save you time and headaches!~
- Thread starter GPW
- Start date
great thread Next is the tricky part. Picking your pistons. The factors to consider and questions you should ask:
NOS yes/no
Race Fuel yes/no
stock rods or aftermarket yes/no
pure race or 50/50
every ounce of power or safest reliable settings
stock cams yes/no
big cams yes/no
cam lift and valve spring selection (bind issues)
extended rev or stock
Everything from the piston up begins with "the hole". Get this measurement right it is your most critical because any problems here your day is over. How deep is the piston in the hole. Check it five times.
NOS yes/no
Race Fuel yes/no
stock rods or aftermarket yes/no
pure race or 50/50
every ounce of power or safest reliable settings
stock cams yes/no
big cams yes/no
cam lift and valve spring selection (bind issues)
extended rev or stock
Everything from the piston up begins with "the hole". Get this measurement right it is your most critical because any problems here your day is over. How deep is the piston in the hole. Check it five times.
greensleeves
Registered
When getting your hole measurements leave the gasket out of the equasion just be sure the gasket you select is as close to the thickness on the label as possible. Keep in mind they all crush differently which changes everything.
For instance if your measurements show that your piston is .003 in the hole and you add a true .030 head gasket your piston to head clearance is .033. That flips based on your actual hole depth or height. Your choice of gasket thickness changes your numbers as well. Milling the block or use of custom gaskets will allow for you to get technical "tight" here unless there are other factors.
Selecting the right piston to head clearance based on your purpose of use is also critical. Some have gone as tight as .032 or out to .055 with big shots of spray or .150 for turbo applications or greater. Big question is, is it going to hold together, will the oem rods stretch?
For instance if your measurements show that your piston is .003 in the hole and you add a true .030 head gasket your piston to head clearance is .033. That flips based on your actual hole depth or height. Your choice of gasket thickness changes your numbers as well. Milling the block or use of custom gaskets will allow for you to get technical "tight" here unless there are other factors.
Selecting the right piston to head clearance based on your purpose of use is also critical. Some have gone as tight as .032 or out to .055 with big shots of spray or .150 for turbo applications or greater. Big question is, is it going to hold together, will the oem rods stretch?
The 300 HP. build?very nice!curious of the cost of that build?
Ok, taking this measurement. You will hear several variations on which tool to use. People use feeler gauges, clay, torque plates, expensive German measuring tools or a dial gauge set-up. Using a dial gauge works best for me. I take two measurements.
(1) Thanks to Kevin of KWS, Set your dial indicator up properly. Take a measurement rocking the piston as far forward towards the front of the motor. Write the measurement down. Rock the piston all the way towards the back of the motor and take a measurement. So if forward was .002 and backwards was .007, add the two = .009 and divide by two: .008 would be your depth in the hole.
(2) Check your work here. Try to center the piston in the hole. Heck use the dial indicator and center it properly. Afterall, everything is being put on this measurement. Set your dial indicator up so you can read the depth of the center of the piston. Write, that measurement down.
Now which measurement pulls more weight. As Kevin explained it. The piston under major load or possible detonation forces can rock forward and back so...this measurement is more critical...keep this in mind when considering piston to valve clearances.
(1) Thanks to Kevin of KWS, Set your dial indicator up properly. Take a measurement rocking the piston as far forward towards the front of the motor. Write the measurement down. Rock the piston all the way towards the back of the motor and take a measurement. So if forward was .002 and backwards was .007, add the two = .009 and divide by two: .008 would be your depth in the hole.
(2) Check your work here. Try to center the piston in the hole. Heck use the dial indicator and center it properly. Afterall, everything is being put on this measurement. Set your dial indicator up so you can read the depth of the center of the piston. Write, that measurement down.
Now which measurement pulls more weight. As Kevin explained it. The piston under major load or possible detonation forces can rock forward and back so...this measurement is more critical...keep this in mind when considering piston to valve clearances.
Last edited:
1badbusa74
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thanks everyone!!
Dozerdriver
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I am enjoying this thread... thanks Greg.
greensleeves
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maddogs_1340
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Hi,GPW\Greg
I am curious why you chose a 14.3 AFR?
I am not a builder or tuner but do play a bit.lol
The tuner's say lean is mean but how lean is to lean? IMO
when it comes time for me to see a tuner i would prefer a 13.5 - 13.7 AFR
probably would not make top HP but i like having room to give for fuel and mother nature's changes.lmao..
Greg can i PM you with some of my idea's for my future build?
Thankx,maddogs_1340
I am curious why you chose a 14.3 AFR?
I am not a builder or tuner but do play a bit.lol
The tuner's say lean is mean but how lean is to lean? IMO
when it comes time for me to see a tuner i would prefer a 13.5 - 13.7 AFR
probably would not make top HP but i like having room to give for fuel and mother nature's changes.lmao..
Greg can i PM you with some of my idea's for my future build?
Thankx,maddogs_1340
nice pics 
Maybe I wrote wrong I will check. I got the motor broken as a result of being leaned out and ran hard with MR9. Motor met its breaking point and one pass before complete failure I got the motor. What a lesson many will never see, so I took clear pictures.
Greg
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