How To "Adjust" Your Valves/Cam Removal

JINKSTER

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Should you discover any of your valves are out of spec after following the steps outlined in my "How To INSPECT Your Valves" thread located here...

HOW TO INSPECT YOUR VALVES FOUND HERE

This post is in addendum to walk you through CCT (Cam Chain Tensioner) and Cam Removal so you can replace valve shims and bring your valves back into factory spec..and fear not...as the shop manual can be somewhat intimidating and deceptive whereby they illustrate both cams being removed simultaneously where for simple valve adjustment?....you need NOT remove both cams..just "One At A Time" which is far less intimidating as you always retain cam chain timing to at least one cam sprocket..the "deceptive" part?..the shop manual illustrates this work being done on an engine that's been removed from the busa frame..you won't have as much "working room" as illustrated in the shop manual but all processes are still very negotiable with adequate working room to get the job done...and stunningly simple to get done...as follows..

First remove the Cam Chain Tensioner...

CAM1.jpg


CAM2.jpg


CAM3.jpg


to be continued...

Should you discover any of your valves are out of spec after following the steps outlined in my "How To INSPECT Your Valves" thread located here...

HOW TO INSPECT YOUR VALVES FOUND HERE

This post is in addendum to walk you through CCT (Cam Chain Tensioner) and Cam Removal so you can replace valve shims and bring your valves back into factory spec..and fear not...as the shop manual can be somewhat intimidating and deceptive whereby they illustrate both cams being removed simultaneously where for simple valve adjustment?....you need NOT remove both cams..just "One At A Time" which is far less intimidating as you always retain cam chain timing to at least one cam sprocket..the "deceptive" part?..the shop manual illustrates this work being done on an engine that's been removed from the busa frame..you won't have as much "working room" as illustrated in the shop manual but all processes are still very negotiable with adequate working room to get the job done...and stunningly simple to get done...as follows..

First remove the Cam Chain Tensioner...

CAM1.jpg


CAM2.jpg


CAM3.jpg


to be continued...

continued...

then proceed to remove the camshaft...

CAM4.jpg


CAM5.jpg


CAM6.jpg


CAM7.jpg


CAM8.jpg


to be continued...

continued...

then proceed to remove the camshaft...

CAM4.jpg


CAM5.jpg


CAM6.jpg


CAM7.jpg


CAM8.jpg


to be continued...

continued...

then proceed to swap out the appropriate shims...

CAM9.jpg


CAM10.jpg


NOTE!:Prior to re-installing your camshaft you'll want to apply a thin film of moly/graphite paste to the camshaft journals. The permatext black RTV is "sensor safe" and is to be applied to the 1/2 moon segments of your valve cover gasket to prevent and oil seepage after re-assy of the valve cover.

CAM12.jpg


CAM13.jpg


I will be adding tutorial text to this posting.

L8R, Bill.
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continued...

then proceed to swap out the appropriate shims...

CAM9.jpg


CAM10.jpg


NOTE!:Prior to re-installing your camshaft you'll want to apply a thin film of moly/graphite paste to the camshaft journals. The permatext black RTV is "sensor safe" and is to be applied to the 1/2 moon segments of your valve cover gasket to prevent and oil seepage after re-assy of the valve cover.

CAM12.jpg


CAM13.jpg


I will be adding tutorial text to this posting.

L8R, Bill.
cool.gif
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Awesome! Gonna print these out and put them with my shop manual collection. I love detailed walk throughs.
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Nice write up (as usual)!
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Another tip... sometimes the tappet can give you some grief (oil stiction) when you try to pull it up to expose the shim. I "borrowed" a few window picture hangers (they are cone shaped clear plastic pieces about the size of a penny in diameter that use suction to hold themselves to a flat surface) from my wife and just pushed them on the tappets. They pull out easily and perfectly.
 
(HRJR @ Apr. 06 2007,00:48) Nice write up (as usual)!  
beerchug.gif


Another tip... sometimes the tappet can give you some grief (oil stiction) when you try to pull it up to expose the shim.  I "borrowed" a few window picture hangers (they are cone shaped clear plastic pieces about the size of a penny in diameter that use suction to hold themselves to a flat surface) from my wife and just pushed them on the tappets.  They pull out easily and perfectly.
That's a great idea man!
biggrin.gif


I used a magnet to pull my tappet but in previous threads i had another member advise against this warning that the magnet could polarize the tappet (i guess the fear being that a polarized tappet could/might collect iron based particles?) however...there's two reasons i used a magnet despite the "Polarization Phobia"..

1. The magnet only had about 2 seconds contact with my tappet (hardly enough contact time to "polarize" it to any degree) annnnd?..

2. The shop manual actually advised..

"Use A Magnet To Extract Your Tappet"

so?..i felt "Magnet Safe"
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But great idea on the micro suction cup thingy.
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L8R, Bill.
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biggrin.gif
 
I have to applaud your attention to detail here Bill.  For those that have never R&R'd a head, valve cover, or anything internal.....it is simply complete and informative the way you leave out the commentary and leave in the technical do's and do not's.....thank you once again.  You're awesome Bruddah....
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My 05' just clicked off 23,000 and I may be heading in for a gap check when I have a little time.  I'll also take my laptop into the garage with this page and the other as references.

Thank you again, as if this is the technical information a newb uses for his first exploration, he can get in, AND get out.
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You rock !!
 
thanx, you make it look a lot less scarey, great way to save a lot of $ by keeping it out of the shop. where do you get the shims? do you stack them, or replace them? great write-up.
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thanx, you make it look a lot less scarey, great way to save a lot of $ by keeping it out of the shop.  where do you get the shims? do you stack them, or replace them?  great write-up.
bowdown.gif
GIXERHP was nice enough to ship me his full shim kit as i attempted to get us/H.ORG a "Shim Bank" going as it's nice to have the shimbank handy when you check your valves so that if you need to shim any valves you don't hafta tear it down twice...or?..wait for ordered shims to arrive.

L8R, Bill.
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<!--QuoteBeginHRJR+Apr. 06 2007,00:48-->
(HRJR @ Apr. 06 2007,00:48) <!--QuoteEBegin-->Nice write up (as usual)! ?
beerchug.gif


Another tip... sometimes the tappet can give you some grief (oil stiction) when you try to pull it up to expose the shim. ?I "borrowed" a few window picture hangers (they are cone shaped clear plastic pieces about the size of a penny in diameter that use suction to hold themselves to a flat surface) from my wife and just pushed them on the tappets. ?They pull out easily and perfectly.
That's a great idea man!
biggrin.gif


I used a magnet to pull my tappet but in previous threads i had another member advise against this warning that the magnet could polarize the tappet (i guess the fear being that a polarized tappet could/might collect iron based particles?) however...there's two reasons i used a magnet despite the "Polarization Phobia"..

1. The magnet only had about 2 seconds contact with my tappet (hardly enough contact time to "polarize" it to any degree) annnnd?..

2. The shop manual actually advised..

"Use A Magnet To Extract Your Tappet"

so?..i felt "Magnet Safe"
laugh.gif


But great idea on the micro suction cup thingy.
biggrin.gif


L8R, Bill.
cool.gif




<!--EDIT|JINKSTER|1175869939-->
Also, any cold induction magnetization to the tappet at all will be completely disolved through high heat exposure.
Only an Alnico magnet itself can withstand high temperatures.
So, this is a non-issue completely.

biggrin.gif
 
Looks like a great proceedure you did. Unfortunately I can't pull up the thread or the pics.
 
Yeah, the dreaded X. This sucks because I would really like to get this information.
 
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