Should you discover any of your valves are out of spec after following the steps outlined in my "How To INSPECT Your Valves" thread located here...
HOW TO INSPECT YOUR VALVES FOUND HERE
This post is in addendum to walk you through CCT (Cam Chain Tensioner) and Cam Removal so you can replace valve shims and bring your valves back into factory spec..and fear not...as the shop manual can be somewhat intimidating and deceptive whereby they illustrate both cams being removed simultaneously where for simple valve adjustment?....you need NOT remove both cams..just "One At A Time" which is far less intimidating as you always retain cam chain timing to at least one cam sprocket..the "deceptive" part?..the shop manual illustrates this work being done on an engine that's been removed from the busa frame..you won't have as much "working room" as illustrated in the shop manual but all processes are still very negotiable with adequate working room to get the job done...and stunningly simple to get done...as follows..
First remove the Cam Chain Tensioner...
to be continued...
Should you discover any of your valves are out of spec after following the steps outlined in my "How To INSPECT Your Valves" thread located here...
HOW TO INSPECT YOUR VALVES FOUND HERE
This post is in addendum to walk you through CCT (Cam Chain Tensioner) and Cam Removal so you can replace valve shims and bring your valves back into factory spec..and fear not...as the shop manual can be somewhat intimidating and deceptive whereby they illustrate both cams being removed simultaneously where for simple valve adjustment?....you need NOT remove both cams..just "One At A Time" which is far less intimidating as you always retain cam chain timing to at least one cam sprocket..the "deceptive" part?..the shop manual illustrates this work being done on an engine that's been removed from the busa frame..you won't have as much "working room" as illustrated in the shop manual but all processes are still very negotiable with adequate working room to get the job done...and stunningly simple to get done...as follows..
First remove the Cam Chain Tensioner...
to be continued...
continued...
then proceed to remove the camshaft...
to be continued...
continued...
then proceed to remove the camshaft...
to be continued...
continued...
then proceed to swap out the appropriate shims...
NOTE!:Prior to re-installing your camshaft you'll want to apply a thin film of moly/graphite paste to the camshaft journals. The permatext black RTV is "sensor safe" and is to be applied to the 1/2 moon segments of your valve cover gasket to prevent and oil seepage after re-assy of the valve cover.
I will be adding tutorial text to this posting.
L8R, Bill.
continued...
then proceed to swap out the appropriate shims...
NOTE!:Prior to re-installing your camshaft you'll want to apply a thin film of moly/graphite paste to the camshaft journals. The permatext black RTV is "sensor safe" and is to be applied to the 1/2 moon segments of your valve cover gasket to prevent and oil seepage after re-assy of the valve cover.
I will be adding tutorial text to this posting.
L8R, Bill.
HOW TO INSPECT YOUR VALVES FOUND HERE
This post is in addendum to walk you through CCT (Cam Chain Tensioner) and Cam Removal so you can replace valve shims and bring your valves back into factory spec..and fear not...as the shop manual can be somewhat intimidating and deceptive whereby they illustrate both cams being removed simultaneously where for simple valve adjustment?....you need NOT remove both cams..just "One At A Time" which is far less intimidating as you always retain cam chain timing to at least one cam sprocket..the "deceptive" part?..the shop manual illustrates this work being done on an engine that's been removed from the busa frame..you won't have as much "working room" as illustrated in the shop manual but all processes are still very negotiable with adequate working room to get the job done...and stunningly simple to get done...as follows..
First remove the Cam Chain Tensioner...
to be continued...
Should you discover any of your valves are out of spec after following the steps outlined in my "How To INSPECT Your Valves" thread located here...
HOW TO INSPECT YOUR VALVES FOUND HERE
This post is in addendum to walk you through CCT (Cam Chain Tensioner) and Cam Removal so you can replace valve shims and bring your valves back into factory spec..and fear not...as the shop manual can be somewhat intimidating and deceptive whereby they illustrate both cams being removed simultaneously where for simple valve adjustment?....you need NOT remove both cams..just "One At A Time" which is far less intimidating as you always retain cam chain timing to at least one cam sprocket..the "deceptive" part?..the shop manual illustrates this work being done on an engine that's been removed from the busa frame..you won't have as much "working room" as illustrated in the shop manual but all processes are still very negotiable with adequate working room to get the job done...and stunningly simple to get done...as follows..
First remove the Cam Chain Tensioner...
to be continued...
continued...
then proceed to remove the camshaft...
to be continued...
continued...
then proceed to remove the camshaft...
to be continued...
continued...
then proceed to swap out the appropriate shims...
NOTE!:Prior to re-installing your camshaft you'll want to apply a thin film of moly/graphite paste to the camshaft journals. The permatext black RTV is "sensor safe" and is to be applied to the 1/2 moon segments of your valve cover gasket to prevent and oil seepage after re-assy of the valve cover.
I will be adding tutorial text to this posting.
L8R, Bill.
continued...
then proceed to swap out the appropriate shims...
NOTE!:Prior to re-installing your camshaft you'll want to apply a thin film of moly/graphite paste to the camshaft journals. The permatext black RTV is "sensor safe" and is to be applied to the 1/2 moon segments of your valve cover gasket to prevent and oil seepage after re-assy of the valve cover.
I will be adding tutorial text to this posting.
L8R, Bill.
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