How much HP to hit a 7?

[Ragu585]

I know there are alot more things that come into play than just HP,and people have gone faster than others with less. What is the ballpark magic number just to touch a 7.99?

 

[hairabushy]

This should answer your question, ..found in the Nitrous forumshttps://www.hayabusa.org/forum/nitrous/142307-7-12-197mph-nitrous-street-bike.html

 

[Ragu585]

Sick bike, but it doesn't really answer my question.

 

[Got-Busa?]

I would say LOTS of factors with chassis setup, prep, weight, etc...to just throw out a number. You can get ball park but that doesn't mean it's possible or will even happen with X bike...

How much do you weight and the bike?

 

[Ragu585]

Rider is 145 and skill is top notch. Bike is stock right now. I'm trying to set a goal and go from there. I know a lot of factors play into it but HP is the biggest money factor.

 

[BiggDaddyBusa08]

If ya got the $$$$$ then make all the hp you can afford. I would guesstimate somewhere around 400 hp, depending on rider weight and skill.

 

[Ragu585]

400ish hp is around my budget. I would like to set a goal for 7.99 but if it takes a lot of power, its more money that i want to spend. Im just looking into whats a good goal to shoot for.

 

[Got-Busa?]

Making the power won't be that hard, getting the chassis setup and the power to the ground is the problem. You are talking a lot of time/money in setup...

You figure on a 550lb. BUSA with a 150lb. rider you need maybe 300hp but that's in a perfect world...

Stage 1 Busa to give you an idea..

- The Fastest Stock Motor Turbo Busa in the World *Watch in HQ*[/url]

 

[Ragu585]

So its not as hard as I thought, but wont be easy either. With a good setup and power there's a chance. I'm going to make 7.99 my goal for this coming summer.

 

[Draco1340]

I'm at 250 to 255 HP, and I'm running 8.20 pretty consistently. I figure 270 HP should get me into the 7.9X range. I still have a bunch of stuff I need to do with chassis, but I am still trying to keep bike street legal and registered.

400 HP is not necesary, and would be VERY difficult to control without a pro-stock chassis. Sometimes less is more.

 

[BiggDaddyBusa08]

I'm at 250 to 255 HP, and I'm running 8.20 pretty consistently. I figure 270 HP should get me into the 7.9X range. I still have a bunch of stuff I need to do with chassis, but I am still trying to keep bike street legal and registered.

400 HP is not necesary, and would be VERY difficult to control without a pro-stock chassis. Sometimes less is more.

How much do you and the bike weigh? Didnt you remove alot of weight off your bike?

 

[Ragu585]

I'm at 250 to 255 HP, and I'm running 8.20 pretty consistently. I figure 270 HP should get me into the 7.9X range. I still have a bunch of stuff I need to do with chassis, but I am still trying to keep bike street legal and registered.

400 HP is not necesary, and would be VERY difficult to control without a pro-stock chassis. Sometimes less is more.

Damn that's moving pretty good! What's your stretch? I'm still debating on arm length. I'm thinking +10" but people tell me its to much. My 1k hooks sick at 10" but its stock motor. Gearing is an issue too but I'm focusing on motor and Turbo kit first.

 

[Busa1166]

Are you also going to keep your under 8 machine ridable for street use as a daily driver or weekend warrior. ???

 

[Ragu585]

Mostly for the track. I have 2 gsxrs for the street so I don't need to ride it but I will be taking it for a few rips. I hear anything over 6" with a turbo just spins on the street.

 

[Draco1340]

How much do you and the bike weigh? Didnt you remove alot of weight off your bike?

I'm 165, so I'm no jockey, but I have taken weight off the bike. On the scales with fuel, rider and gear, the whole setup weighs around 650 or so. I'm only 8" over. Our track isn't always prepped well enough to run 10" over. Light weight is easier on parts; I have only taken the head off to put springs in; otherwise the motor is still stock. Its easier to work on chassis and weight than it is to manage huge power.

 

[Ragu585]

What kind of 60' are u cutting with +8"?

 

[Draco1340]

What kind of 60' are u cutting with +8"?

1.37 or 1.38. Nothing too crazy. My plan is to get down to 1.35s next year by lowering the bike and doing a bit more chassis work.

 

[YSI408]

I was going to say around 300hp. Keep up the good work draco

I'm at 250 to 255 HP, and I'm running 8.20 pretty consistently. I figure 270 HP should get me into the 7.9X range. I still have a bunch of stuff I need to do with chassis, but I am still trying to keep bike street legal and registered.

400 HP is not necesary, and would be VERY difficult to control without a pro-stock chassis. Sometimes less is more.

 

[Ragu585]

1.37 or 1.38. Nothing too crazy. My plan is to get down to 1.35s next year by lowering the bike and doing a bit more chassis work.

So would you say 8" is better than 10"? Or any other size. Like I said arm length and gearing are things um undecided about. People tell me different things and at $1300 for an arm I want to get it right the first time.

 

[Draco1340]

There is no "right" arm length. It depends on riding style and your bike. Better track conditions and better tires allow a longer arm. Moving the center of gravity forward alows for a shorter arm. One of the most important chassis adjustments you can do is wheelbase. With an adjustable arm, start with the chain long and with the wheel all the way back. With a good fresh tire and a good preped track, try the longest length. If the tire won't hold launching at 6k, then move the tire forward two chain links (you can only remove a pair) at a time. When the tire starts to hook, and the front tire starts to hover 60' out, stop and work on your short times. Remember, a good short time requires you to hammer the motor wide open throttle at launch and hold it there, so if the tire won't handle WOT 6k, then you have too much wheel base. Remember some of the guys in AMA Real Street (now gone) ran 1.30 short times running only 4 or 5" over stock.