How Much Current Draw Is Normal When Bike Is Off

ChicoTheCop

Registered
you may know about my electrical issues by now. we someone said test each fuse for parasitic draw. whats a normal amount?
 
You may know about my electrical issues by now.

When someone said test each fuse for parasitic draw.

Whats a normal amount?

Any amount will drain the charge with enough time ~ that's why they sell so many Battery Tenders . . .

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What kind of voltage are you getting when your bike is running at 5K rpm? I was reading your other post, did you ever do an upgraded stater?
 
Running volta are fine. Don't remember the number. No didn't up grade the starter
I changed the starter relay.
Thicker battery cables
I'm gonna get a new battery and see what happens
 
what other items should I test?
the symptoms are
1, while trying to start bike it seems as if the battery is dead. even when its not dead and tests fine.
2, not sure if this is an issue but fuel pump and headlight fuses have power even when the key is out.
 
I have the "priority start battery protector" unit on my Car since 2012. The car has a drain that quit looking for after months of searching. It works and is maintenance-free. Check this: installs in minutes, there is a audible gear motor that disconnects from the battery when the voltage drops to approx. 11. So now there is sufficient amps, isolated in the battery, to spin an engine. To hear the gear motor reconnect to the battery, simply activate any aux load source (lights, horn etc). The unit senses this pull and swings the arm back to the battery post.

Although I found the drain, I keep the unit installed for those time SHE leaves the lights on or door ajar overnight. If I open the door and the interior lights fail to illuminate, I touch the brake pedal: hear the gear motor, the lights lite and I turn the key.

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=priority+start
 
I think specific testing is needed to get to the bottom of this. You need a proper multimeter.
Before everyone jumps on me for making this next suggestion, let me say I know what I'm doing and talking about.
Remove your bikes battery terminals from your battery. Using jumper cables connect it to your car/truck battery (don't remove it form your vehicle)
Try to start your bike, if it acts the same way it did before, start the car/truck and then try starting your bike again.
If the bike acts the same, I do not believe the issue is your battery or regulator rectifier or stator.
Unsure about the headlight and fuel pump fuses but that does not sound like an issue, the power is likely not getting to the headlights or fuel pump until you turn the ignition on. Try that and report back
 
I work with batteries every day in life safety . The batteries of today are junk compared to them just ten years ago . There is no more LEAD SMELTING in the USA ! so we get all lead used from CHINA ! Just last weekend my Father said son the jeep is not starting . Auto place says battery is good .
I go over and test the battery with my own load tester from work . Battery Fails . Return to store , and it was replaced under warranty .
What is the point of a warranty if it leaves you stranded in less than 14 months . FYI you can read 12.7 volts DC with no load , but what is your reading when you press the start button ? I bet its LOW !
 
yeah. while starting the battery shows about 7V or 8V, your right.
so what if I connect 2 batteries as a 12V system? would that damage my charging system?
 
yeah. while starting the battery shows about 7V or 8V, your right.
so what if I connect 2 batteries as a 12V system? would that damage my charging system?

If you connect them in parallel, not at all.
Positive to Positive and negative to negative.

Am I missing something though, why would you want to add an additional battery?
Would you not just replace the defective one?
 
by the way all, my problem was the Idler/Limiter gear, its connected to the starter. seems it got all gummed up with water/oil muck. and was binding
 
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