How long before busa chain change?
- Thread starter mikev7
- Start date
mike04busa
Registered
I'am not sure but my chain adj's were almost all the way back and I just put a 42t on to bring it forward to get another season out of it.The stock sprocket looked perfect.it looks like there is no wear,we will see how long I get out of this.I hope I don't get
for this.The bike has about 18k on it all orig.drive components.
I didn't take care of my factory chain, think I changed it at 17 or 19K, been cleaning and lubing this one every 1K, hope to get 20K out of it. As long as there's no other problems with it, I'd ride. When you change make sure you change the front and rear sprocket as well.
change it when you can't take the slack out anymore, when you notice rust between the links( sign of o-ring/x-ring failure), a kink, or considerable side to side flex(sign of pin wear) any ONE of these justify the need to replace it regardless of mileage. I've had the best luck with D.I.D., the least luck with Regina. remember don't trust clip on masters, use the rivet link
+1
A quick eyeball estamite method is to grab the chain at the back of the rear sproket and pull back, if you can expose a 1/3 of a tooth the chain is likely shot. To be absolutely sure you have to measure.
cheers
ken
On 4 different new Busa's with " Extreme Care "
I have gotten between 14-25 K miles
It all depends on cleanings and proper adjustments.
Oh yeah and a little bit, with how hard you pull the throttle.
When a Busa chain breaks, plan on buying a new water pump and clutch push rod in addition to the chain at least.
I finally threw down for a ZZZ as a replacement chain and with over 12 K on it is still as good as new.
With only one notch left to adjust,I would seriously think about a new one within a 1000 miles or so.
That stocker chain is stretched to it's limits.
I have gotten between 14-25 K miles
It all depends on cleanings and proper adjustments.
Oh yeah and a little bit, with how hard you pull the throttle.
When a Busa chain breaks, plan on buying a new water pump and clutch push rod in addition to the chain at least.
I finally threw down for a ZZZ as a replacement chain and with over 12 K on it is still as good as new.
With only one notch left to adjust,I would seriously think about a new one within a 1000 miles or so.
That stocker chain is stretched to it's limits.
Mine was pretty well back in the adjustment when I got the bike new. Got 1800 miles now and it's stretched enough for it's first adjustment which will be alright but if it needs anymore I'll be about out of adjustment travel too.
Unless you've never cleaned and lubed it and done nothing but drag race, a chain shouldn't be wore out in 7000 miles, looks to me like the're almost a link too long from the factory.
Unless you've never cleaned and lubed it and done nothing but drag race, a chain shouldn't be wore out in 7000 miles, looks to me like the're almost a link too long from the factory.
I wonder how much it helps to "clean and lube" a "sealed o-ring" chain.. I am certain that getting any lube inside the seals is pretty much impossible
In some cases using the wrong things to clean and lub the chain could be damaging it.
If I was to buy a new bike I would ride the thing home with the factory chain. Change it now or pay the consequences. They are junk chains and will break if you ride it aggresively. I broke mine at 2500 miles. Change it out now, I think one of the board sponsors is having a group buy right now check it out.
Cleaning and lubing an o-ring chain it more about keeping the o-rings healthy than providing lubrication to the moving parts. And yes, using the wrong chemicals to clean can hurt the rubber o-rings 19K miles out of my stock chain. 15K out of my current chain and still going strong.
And I'm pretty sure the last 15k was much more aggressive than the first 19k
Chain life depends solely on the amount of maintenance and care it's given during it life. I run my factory chains 25K miles and change them. They have all still been in good shape but 25K is the magic number I use for a new chain.
As many have said, you can do more damage to your chain by using the wrong chemicals to clean it than just leaving it dirty. Brake Clean, WD40, solvents etc. is not a good choice to clean your chain. I use MotorX 611 chain clean and it works great. I clean the chain, dry it thoroughly then give it a light coat of chain wax, not lube. If you don't have comercial chain cleaner, Kerosene or Diesel works. I always scrub the chain with soap and water after the use of chemicals. Cleaning the chain is a tough job but necessary if you expect your chain to have a long life.
Running your chain too tight compounds the amount of wear.
As many have said, you can do more damage to your chain by using the wrong chemicals to clean it than just leaving it dirty. Brake Clean, WD40, solvents etc. is not a good choice to clean your chain. I use MotorX 611 chain clean and it works great. I clean the chain, dry it thoroughly then give it a light coat of chain wax, not lube. If you don't have comercial chain cleaner, Kerosene or Diesel works. I always scrub the chain with soap and water after the use of chemicals. Cleaning the chain is a tough job but necessary if you expect your chain to have a long life.
Running your chain too tight compounds the amount of wear.
Maybe just a littleAnd I'm pretty sure the last 15k was much more aggressive than the first 19k
I think so.
JusPlaynBob
Registered
22,000K here, and the front sprocket has only a little noticable wear.
The chain and Rear look and feel new.
Religiously, lubed every 1000k or a bit less.
And cleaned with the Ketten Max cleaner and kerosene a couple of times a season.
I just bought the OE front sprocket, still in the package but, I'm wanting a 42T steel rear and Gold chain.
How are those "Driven" rears.
Apparently a member here is a dealer.
Can someone post a link or a name?
Thanks -Guys.
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