How do you adjust clutch engagement?

GOT BUSA?

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I think the clutch starts to grab way to far from the handle bar. So how do you make it grab sooner on engagement? It's hydraulic so no cable to lengthen. Is there something by the clutch housing?



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The only adjustment is on the lever....it changes the pivot point
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I agree with GOT BUSA?. The clutch engages WAY too late in the lever sweep. It seems pointless to have to pull a lever 2.5" in when only the last .5" does anything!

I guess I'll just have to learn to live with it.
 
I agree with GOT BUSA?.  The clutch engages WAY too late in the lever sweep.  It seems pointless to have to pull a lever 2.5" in when only the last .5" does anything!  

I guess I'll just have to learn to live with it.
Sell the Busa and get something else.
 
Check out Brocks website. He has a Pivot cam for the lever that he says will give you more adjustment. I've been thinking about ordering one but figured I would wait till some tries it and says it works.
 
I think the clutch starts to grab way to far from the handle bar. So how do you make it grab sooner on engagement? It's hydraulic so no cable to lengthen. Is there something by the clutch housing?
Mine functioned like an on/off switch, I had problems slipping it on launch. I was told to order an 02+ clutch from Kathy over at sh.org, specifying that it was for an older (00) bike. It comes with wave rotors that you substitue for two of the fibers. It works a LOT better now, and cost $150, vs. $240 for Brock's kit. I'm not knocking Brock's products by any means, but when you're drag racing on a wafer-thin budget......If this is something you're interested in let me know I'll get the details from the guy that told me about it/installed it for me.
 
I took a grinder to the stock pivot cam. Took the #4 setting down flush with the shaft. Works good. I couple watch outs. When removing the cam there is a small spring and ball in there. Don't grind too far. On mine the clutch limit switch just closes when the level hits the bar.:;):
 
Mine functioned like an on/off switch, I had problems slipping it on launch. I was told to order an 02+ clutch from Kathy over at sh.org, specifying that it was for an older (00) bike. It comes with wave rotors that you substitue for two of the fibers. It works a LOT better now, and cost $150, vs. $240 for Brock's kit. I'm not knocking Brock's products by any means, but when you're drag racing on a wafer-thin budget......If this is something you're interested in let me know I'll get the details from the guy that told me about it/installed it for me.
Hey Mr. Brown I've got the same problem and am interested in your fix. Can you provide some details?
 
..... :laugh: Rubb. Tells ya later.
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Shoot yea Rubb already walked me through that process - everything looks fine under there. A fresh bleed made the clutch feel much better but only for a day... I'm basically out of ideas. Got a new clutch hose on the way I'm hoping that makes a difference but not sold it will.
 
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