Honda abs vs Hayabusa abs

Great comparo Bryan, with the Hondas being as good as they are in the lever feel, no braided hoses required, would you agree?
Now I understand why the ABS removal is so common.
Thanks for the info there mate!
 
....who has the adjuster on level 1 anyways? 3 or 4 is standard...or am I wrong?

I like having both levers adjusted so far out that I can pull them in(with 1 or 2 fingers), and not touch or crush my other 2-3 fingers holding the grips.
With minimal lever travel.
If mc's or cable clutch can't do that within normal lever adjustment, I don't wanna ride it.
Just my 2 cents, if it's worth that.
 
Wait, Suzuki abs is bad because of a lever travel adjustment?
I think what he means is that the lever is able to come all the way to the bars because of the 'squishy' or soft feel (usually caused by rubber brake hose expansion) no matter where the lever position is set to.

This was explained to me by a very well trained factory Suzuki tech like this . . . "The reason why the lever travel is 'excessive'. . . .
(speaking of the amount of travel BEFORE the brake starts to work, NOT the 'squishy feel' issue, as explained previously, usually caused by rubber hose expansion or the compression of any air in the system) ) . . . . on the Busa master cylinders compared to say a Brembo m/cyl, is because the Suzuki m/cyl has a larger diameter scavenge port (the hole that goes between the bore and the reservoir) and hence the piston has more travel to slide across that hole to block it, until the fluid begins to really move and push on the caliper pistons.
Also, the 12 caliper pistons have a large surface area compared to the usual 8, to push on so this also exacerbates the problem.
The Brembo's scavenge port is smaller in diameter and the piston has less travel to block off the port and start to move the fluid to push the 8 pistons usually found in Brembo calipers.
Also the m/cyl diameter to caliper piston surface area ratio comes into play as well, if you want more power in the 'push' of the fluid, you need to decrease the m/cyl diameter OR increase the caliper piston surface area.
So the issue is inherent in the design of the m/cyl itself.
I intend to find a good radial m/cyl and fit it to my Gen 1 and hopefully get a better brake feel.
 
My 2018 suzuki with the brembo calipers does not do that
Just saying
You are either very lucky or something is wrong ;) every one on the show room for the last few years I test do it . Today I even tried the DL1000 models , and a DL650 with same result . It was the first time I thought to video it , and compare to another brand on the show room floor
 
In re: “I think what he means is that the lever is able to come all the way to the bars because of the 'squishy' or soft feel (usually caused by rubber brake hose expansion) no matter where the lever position is set to.”

But the video shows only the lever travel in the number one position.

I think I’ve mentioned before that the huge Brembos on my Caddy feel mushy compared to the huge Corvette branded brakes on my Vette, both with ABS. Nevertheless, both brakes work very well. Once again the HH pads coupled with braided SS lines on my 06 allow the brakes to work extremely well, extremely well, with good modulation too.
 
I don't mind the ABS on my 2018 hayabusa, but it does feel a little squishier than the ninja. They both work well though (I think the hayabusa brakes are smoother).
 
In re: “I think what he means is that the lever is able to come all the way to the bars because of the 'squishy' or soft feel (usually caused by rubber brake hose expansion) no matter where the lever position is set to.”

But the video shows only the lever travel in the number one position.

I think I’ve mentioned before that the huge Brembos on my Caddy feel mushy compared to the huge Corvette branded brakes on my Vette, both with ABS. Nevertheless, both brakes work very well. Once again the HH pads coupled with braided SS lines on my 06 allow the brakes to work extremely well, extremely well, with good modulation too.

With lever in the #1 position it is furthest away from the grip , and it came to the grip when squeezed with minimal effort . Everything was upgraded on my bike . Rotors , Pads , Fluids , Master cylinder , lever and all had the same result as 1st video above just it did stop sooner with better pads/rotors/fluids .
By simply changing lines ( deleted ABS to do so ) the last video shows the lever travel difference . I use to run the ASV lever way OUT to keep it from going to the grip . Now the lever is at a better resting spot , feel , and modulation have been improved 10 times over before .

Maybe I'm asking too much to have a MSRP 15,000 USD bike with decent brakes .
 
No I don't think so. Anything this fast should almost stand on its nose with stopping power. Now like most people I do not ride with the lever in the number 1position. But I have had one close call and I can only say I'm very happy with the brakes on mine abs and all. Perhaps I'm not as fast as I think I am ;)
 
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