I spent many hours on the forum trying to decide what to do/get. The following is a collation of many of the helpful posts from forum members, in hopes it is of help to others to get going on this very valuable mod. My comments are in [ ].
My Plan
Low: HID with delay
Hi: Modulator (note that the HID low beam is on along with Hi beam)
Daytime: Hi beam is the stock bulb with modulator (and HID low beam on too)
Night w/ traffic: Low beam HID
Night w/o traffic: Low beam HID plus stock High beam (modulator turns off automatically)
P.S. If it I find that the HID low overwhelms the modulated HI, I'll post re that info because it makes the modulator useless in this ap.
I ordered:
Headlight modulator, $65 w/s Buy Now: Lighting modules for Motorcycles - Headlight Modulator, Back Off, Diamond Star | Pashnit Moto
DEI 528T timed relay $13 w/s ebay
HID kit 35W w/H7 bulb, 4,500 from DDM, $44 w/s see notes on ordering below
Headlight notes
When your high beam is on, both are on
Adjustment: I put a towel on the fender and remove the front 2 pushpins and the 2 pushpins on the right as you're looking to the rear (left side of the bike) and let the cowl cover set on the fender. I use a 1/4" drive ratchet w/10mm socket to adjust. The lower bolt is the vertical adjustment and the upper bolt is the horizontal adjustment
Starting without lights being on: turn kill switch on then push starter in and hold it. While holding starter button down turn key on and lastly draw in clutch to start bike. This was the HIDs don't light until the bike actually starts and there is no power drain
[Note: did not work on my 2004]
Use your starter button to flash to pass. Once bike is running it won't engage starter but will kill lights so you can flash to pass
HID: Once warm you can flash them all you want. If you do flash they instantly relight with no problems
HID Parts
Headlight modulator, $65 w/s Buy Now: Lighting modules for Motorcycles - Headlight Modulator, Back Off, Diamond Star | Pashnit Moto
“I haven't had one person pull out on me since I added the headlight modulators
DEI 528T timed relay $13 w/s ebay
Option: Autolumination.com has the switch backs. You also have to convert your 1156 sockets to 1157 sockets to make the switch back work too
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/electrical-mods/128567-hayabusa-hid-projector.html
HID XENON LEN projector KIT Angel Eye E46 M3 TSX H4 D2S: eBay Motors (item 200404377261 end time Jun-08-10 00:25:40 PDT)
HID Bulbs
Gen 1's take: H7 low beam and 9005 High beam; total of 2; Gen 2's take H7 (one kit) and H9 (one kit) total of 2
you want 4500k lighting, best output, and the least glare
[I chose 4500 to get most light and least glare; I don’t care about bling. However most forum members choose 5k or 6k and are happy with them]
go with 5K as I wanted even more illumination and a little less color
I actually got the 5000k. It's so freakin bright it's rediculous
4-5k gives the best performance and is closest to natural sunlight. It is also far less offensive to the eye, yours and oncoming traffic. The higher temps are more for bling factor, but will give less light and more "glare".
6k is what 95% of us run with no probs with the leo's.
6k will give you that beamer and benz HID look, just a slight bit of blue with plenty of illumination, nearly double that of OEM. I have since purchased a projector kit that will be retrofitted into my low beam housing (see links above) and for that kit I chose to hid kit 6k mccullough from xenon king
HID’s check if your local laws allow Blue headlights. Thats what the 8k's are.
HID is a huge safety upgrade. #1 safety mod in my humble opinion;
Phillips Vision Plus bulb in the low beam
The silverstar bulb may give you a hair more than stock light but it's no HID for sure
Hi/Low beam
I had the HID on my 05 and it is well worth it. You wont need your brights anymore but what I did do is adjust the high beam up a bit so it made a difference when I did hit it in a dark area. The HID covers so much ground and increases visibility it's really much safer when night ridding
I can tell you that if you get the low beam there's no reason to get the high beam unless you just want to spend money. The low beam is really all you because once you put it on it's going to be so bright that you want need the high beam
can do just a high beam
most of the people who do HID conv kits only do the low beam, usually it's more than enough light. That's what I did originally
watss
35 watt kit with a 6k bulb will work great! 55 watt is over kill!
These HIDs use much less power than stock bulbs, only 35 watts per bulb
HID headlamp burners produce between 2,800 and 3,500 lumens from between 35 and 38 watts of electrical power, while halogen filament headlamp bulbs produce between 700 and 2,100 lumens from between 40 and 72 watts at 12.8 V [15][16][17].
went with 5k on the low and 4500 on the high. Just a hint of blue on the low and white on the high, both 55 watt
I put a 55W 5000K from DDM tuning on my CBR1100xx and also installed a 15 second delay module at the same time, so far they have worked flawlessly
xenon-filled halogen Bulbs, is they produce very little or no more then standard halogen Bulbs with the same voltage.
sources
DDMtuning.com 858-633-2020 -1
[I think DDM’s website is poorly laid out - I spent a lot of time trying to figure out what part to buy for my busa. Click on HID Kits; click Raptor HID kit; select wattage, bulb type, bulb color and then check out. DDM’s p/n is HIDRAP. They do not take phone orders but I called first to make sure what I wanted was in stock as suggested. The cost for a kit was $30 but it says its for two ballasts and two bulbs - I doubt that is correct. Shipping was $13.75 - I think their too high, pri mail should be be about $5.]
My advice call first to see if the temperature bulb and kit you want are in stock Im still waiting for DDM to fix my order. Customer service is horrible if you get the wrong part.
The kit is the one GixxerHP sales! Nice kit too! I have each ballast on top of the ram air tubes on each side
Xenonking or hit up Gixxerhp, both will take extremely good care of you
Also running XenonKing HID's in ALL my vehicles... Bike has had them for five or so years and never one problem
5,000k kit from Xenonking; check their web site for the McCulloch kits
$150 McCulloch 5000k HID Motorcycle Kit : Bi Xenon Kit : Xenon Bulbs : Xenonking.com
XenonKing box
Xentec 8000k...pretty much plug and play here
Xenonking kits are simply amazing
. I purchase the 6K from our sponsor Xenonking. Once you get the kit just go to search and you'll find how to put the on plus you are going to have to modify the way you hold it in place and you can find that on here as well.
This will be the 3rd Summer for my McCollough's
$60 StarRotors.com - Headlight Bulbs/LEDs
Ebay hayabusa hid kit $37
Ebay Xenon $40 35W 5000k H7
Ebay SuperSlim digital $41 Xenon $40 35W 5000k H7
Install Notes
DDM kit:. Again pretty much, unplug the headlight, instal the HID. Plug the ballast into the socket and the igniter on to the light and,...Tah Dah.
HID headlights $50, instillation is much easier then taking the fairings off. created a little plate that extends into the space on the opposite side from the fuses and is clamped between the gauges and the subframe at the bottom right bolt of the gauges, works great! Just look for "528T DEI" on eBay Autolumination.com has the switch backs. Remove the windshield.
1. Then the dash trim panels.
2. Then the ram air covers .
3. The dash (Gauges) panel.
Then you got access to the headlamps. (low/high beams) If you get the DDM tuning hids.... the ballasts are smaller so you can mount them together on the right ram air tube. If not you can mount one on each ram air tube like this gen 1's. The ddm tunings ballast are slim where this gen one I did was taller and wider. Reason why they are on both ram air tubes for more room. On gen 2's no room on left hand side. You double stack them, on the right ram air tune!
HID install. Very detailed step by step. If you're not using a DEI528T relay you can just skip over the wiring section. Just plug the HID into headlight socket
The windshield comes out first. Then the left and right plastic inlay covers. Then the dash. Take your time. It is very easy!
ballasts on each side of the ram air tubes
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gene...nstall-07-burgandy-busa-gods-flash-light.html
There is a blue (+)and black(-) wire from the ballast that,
"clicks" into the headlamp socket.
Seal it with weather strip putty or RTV silicone, for a little extra protection.
The kit comes with 3M double sided tape, to secure the ballast, laying to the top of the headlight housing, and a bit to secure the ignitor to the side of the housing.
30 mins to remove the nose of the bike.
15 mins to install the HID
30 mins to replace the nose.
10 mins extra if you put a timed relay in line before the ballast.
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/electrical-mods/115868-how-do-install-these-hids.html
I used the black foam that came with the light for the spring to sit on. It was a pain getting that spring back on too
Photos gen 1: https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gene...nstall-07-burgandy-busa-gods-flash-light.html
So first take off two inner panels as well as chin skirt. Then two side panels.
Then remove windshield. After this you need to take off gauge cluster trim pieces. Be careful but some snapping and popping as they come loose is normal. Scares me but thats how it is. They 'snap' when they come apart.
No need to remove nose
Now lay a towel over triple tree so when you remove gauge cluster the possibility of scratching your gauge faces is less. Thanks again Tim for the tip.
When removing the instrument cluster, the tab to push in to release the plug is on the bottom side of the plug, and can be tricky to find
On the back of the instrument cluster there are two plugs that have to be unplugged besides the two bolts. I recommend using a little grease when reinstalling so they come in/out better (like what's recommended on the body covers)
Next remove both oem bulbs and lay them aside.
The top one is the low beam and bottom is high beam.
Low beam has a big rubber grommet on it that pops in to protect bulb.
Remove grommet and then you can unclip lowbeam bulb.
High beam twist and locks into place. Comes right out.
For DDM unit
high beam HID unit will be a complete plug and use system ready to go
The low beam HID unit will have two spade connectors instead of a plug in harness
The new units come with clear plastic covers protecting the bulbs. One simply tapes off and the other is a two piece cover that screws over the bulb. The base of the cover that screws over the bulb can be removed by pulling each one of the wires from the bulb one at a time thru the collar and then thru the base of the clear protective cover. If you do one wire at a time each connector on that wire will fit thru both at the same time will not. Once you got the covers off you can put the bulbs in the bike. There are also two large rubber grommets that come on the new bulbs. Carefully cut these off. Each one of the four wires goes thru this so be careful and take your time. Again cut the rubber grommets on the new units not any grommets on bike or the large one you removed to get lowbeam out.
The large sofT rubber grommet right behind the HID bulb is what you cut off.
NOTHING ON BIKE NOR ANY PARTS FROM BIKE GET CUT.
The HID ballast I put in the same place as Tim did on the right side ram air tube. I used double sided tape to stick the ballasts together and then zip tied them to ram air tube. The resistors for the HID units I put in same place again as Tim. First I zip tied them together and then zip tied them to the frame work where cluster attaches to. The extra wiring TIm did not have I simply folded it up wrapped it with elec tape and secured the roll with a zip tie. All the other wires again I zip tied in a roll and secured them as forward as poss so they would not contact dampner when it moved.
The new HID lowbeam came with a collar over it that has nipples on it .
This collar prevents the bulb from seating properly inside headlamp assbly unless modified. You need to trim the tabs on the collar as you see in my pics in order to get it to go deep enough into the assbly so you can secure it with the clip. Connect all plugs. Then you can test both to make sure the operate correctly.
If they both work you can secure ballasts to ramair tube, resistors to framework up front and wrap and secure all wires. After that put it all back together and your done !
Each one with the bulb included was only $24.99 and the papers that came with each one say warranted for life of original purchaser
TIP: Use BLACK zipties
the tab of the bulb I'm holding, and the new bulb also, FACES UP to properly seat when reinstalling.
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-ii-busa-information/124304-gen2-hid-install.html
My Plan
Low: HID with delay
Hi: Modulator (note that the HID low beam is on along with Hi beam)
Daytime: Hi beam is the stock bulb with modulator (and HID low beam on too)
Night w/ traffic: Low beam HID
Night w/o traffic: Low beam HID plus stock High beam (modulator turns off automatically)
P.S. If it I find that the HID low overwhelms the modulated HI, I'll post re that info because it makes the modulator useless in this ap.
I ordered:
Headlight modulator, $65 w/s Buy Now: Lighting modules for Motorcycles - Headlight Modulator, Back Off, Diamond Star | Pashnit Moto
DEI 528T timed relay $13 w/s ebay
HID kit 35W w/H7 bulb, 4,500 from DDM, $44 w/s see notes on ordering below
Headlight notes
When your high beam is on, both are on
Adjustment: I put a towel on the fender and remove the front 2 pushpins and the 2 pushpins on the right as you're looking to the rear (left side of the bike) and let the cowl cover set on the fender. I use a 1/4" drive ratchet w/10mm socket to adjust. The lower bolt is the vertical adjustment and the upper bolt is the horizontal adjustment
Starting without lights being on: turn kill switch on then push starter in and hold it. While holding starter button down turn key on and lastly draw in clutch to start bike. This was the HIDs don't light until the bike actually starts and there is no power drain
[Note: did not work on my 2004]
Use your starter button to flash to pass. Once bike is running it won't engage starter but will kill lights so you can flash to pass
HID: Once warm you can flash them all you want. If you do flash they instantly relight with no problems
HID Parts
Headlight modulator, $65 w/s Buy Now: Lighting modules for Motorcycles - Headlight Modulator, Back Off, Diamond Star | Pashnit Moto
“I haven't had one person pull out on me since I added the headlight modulators
DEI 528T timed relay $13 w/s ebay
Option: Autolumination.com has the switch backs. You also have to convert your 1156 sockets to 1157 sockets to make the switch back work too
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/electrical-mods/128567-hayabusa-hid-projector.html
HID XENON LEN projector KIT Angel Eye E46 M3 TSX H4 D2S: eBay Motors (item 200404377261 end time Jun-08-10 00:25:40 PDT)
HID Bulbs
Gen 1's take: H7 low beam and 9005 High beam; total of 2; Gen 2's take H7 (one kit) and H9 (one kit) total of 2
you want 4500k lighting, best output, and the least glare
[I chose 4500 to get most light and least glare; I don’t care about bling. However most forum members choose 5k or 6k and are happy with them]
go with 5K as I wanted even more illumination and a little less color
I actually got the 5000k. It's so freakin bright it's rediculous
4-5k gives the best performance and is closest to natural sunlight. It is also far less offensive to the eye, yours and oncoming traffic. The higher temps are more for bling factor, but will give less light and more "glare".
6k is what 95% of us run with no probs with the leo's.
6k will give you that beamer and benz HID look, just a slight bit of blue with plenty of illumination, nearly double that of OEM. I have since purchased a projector kit that will be retrofitted into my low beam housing (see links above) and for that kit I chose to hid kit 6k mccullough from xenon king
HID’s check if your local laws allow Blue headlights. Thats what the 8k's are.
HID is a huge safety upgrade. #1 safety mod in my humble opinion;
Phillips Vision Plus bulb in the low beam
The silverstar bulb may give you a hair more than stock light but it's no HID for sure
Hi/Low beam
I had the HID on my 05 and it is well worth it. You wont need your brights anymore but what I did do is adjust the high beam up a bit so it made a difference when I did hit it in a dark area. The HID covers so much ground and increases visibility it's really much safer when night ridding
I can tell you that if you get the low beam there's no reason to get the high beam unless you just want to spend money. The low beam is really all you because once you put it on it's going to be so bright that you want need the high beam
can do just a high beam
most of the people who do HID conv kits only do the low beam, usually it's more than enough light. That's what I did originally
watss
35 watt kit with a 6k bulb will work great! 55 watt is over kill!
These HIDs use much less power than stock bulbs, only 35 watts per bulb
HID headlamp burners produce between 2,800 and 3,500 lumens from between 35 and 38 watts of electrical power, while halogen filament headlamp bulbs produce between 700 and 2,100 lumens from between 40 and 72 watts at 12.8 V [15][16][17].
went with 5k on the low and 4500 on the high. Just a hint of blue on the low and white on the high, both 55 watt
I put a 55W 5000K from DDM tuning on my CBR1100xx and also installed a 15 second delay module at the same time, so far they have worked flawlessly
xenon-filled halogen Bulbs, is they produce very little or no more then standard halogen Bulbs with the same voltage.
sources
DDMtuning.com 858-633-2020 -1
[I think DDM’s website is poorly laid out - I spent a lot of time trying to figure out what part to buy for my busa. Click on HID Kits; click Raptor HID kit; select wattage, bulb type, bulb color and then check out. DDM’s p/n is HIDRAP. They do not take phone orders but I called first to make sure what I wanted was in stock as suggested. The cost for a kit was $30 but it says its for two ballasts and two bulbs - I doubt that is correct. Shipping was $13.75 - I think their too high, pri mail should be be about $5.]
My advice call first to see if the temperature bulb and kit you want are in stock Im still waiting for DDM to fix my order. Customer service is horrible if you get the wrong part.
The kit is the one GixxerHP sales! Nice kit too! I have each ballast on top of the ram air tubes on each side
Xenonking or hit up Gixxerhp, both will take extremely good care of you
Also running XenonKing HID's in ALL my vehicles... Bike has had them for five or so years and never one problem
5,000k kit from Xenonking; check their web site for the McCulloch kits
$150 McCulloch 5000k HID Motorcycle Kit : Bi Xenon Kit : Xenon Bulbs : Xenonking.com
XenonKing box
Xentec 8000k...pretty much plug and play here
Xenonking kits are simply amazing
. I purchase the 6K from our sponsor Xenonking. Once you get the kit just go to search and you'll find how to put the on plus you are going to have to modify the way you hold it in place and you can find that on here as well.
This will be the 3rd Summer for my McCollough's
$60 StarRotors.com - Headlight Bulbs/LEDs
Ebay hayabusa hid kit $37
Ebay Xenon $40 35W 5000k H7
Ebay SuperSlim digital $41 Xenon $40 35W 5000k H7
Install Notes
DDM kit:. Again pretty much, unplug the headlight, instal the HID. Plug the ballast into the socket and the igniter on to the light and,...Tah Dah.
HID headlights $50, instillation is much easier then taking the fairings off. created a little plate that extends into the space on the opposite side from the fuses and is clamped between the gauges and the subframe at the bottom right bolt of the gauges, works great! Just look for "528T DEI" on eBay Autolumination.com has the switch backs. Remove the windshield.
1. Then the dash trim panels.
2. Then the ram air covers .
3. The dash (Gauges) panel.
Then you got access to the headlamps. (low/high beams) If you get the DDM tuning hids.... the ballasts are smaller so you can mount them together on the right ram air tube. If not you can mount one on each ram air tube like this gen 1's. The ddm tunings ballast are slim where this gen one I did was taller and wider. Reason why they are on both ram air tubes for more room. On gen 2's no room on left hand side. You double stack them, on the right ram air tune!
HID install. Very detailed step by step. If you're not using a DEI528T relay you can just skip over the wiring section. Just plug the HID into headlight socket
The windshield comes out first. Then the left and right plastic inlay covers. Then the dash. Take your time. It is very easy!
ballasts on each side of the ram air tubes
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gene...nstall-07-burgandy-busa-gods-flash-light.html
There is a blue (+)and black(-) wire from the ballast that,
"clicks" into the headlamp socket.
Seal it with weather strip putty or RTV silicone, for a little extra protection.
The kit comes with 3M double sided tape, to secure the ballast, laying to the top of the headlight housing, and a bit to secure the ignitor to the side of the housing.
30 mins to remove the nose of the bike.
15 mins to install the HID
30 mins to replace the nose.
10 mins extra if you put a timed relay in line before the ballast.
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/electrical-mods/115868-how-do-install-these-hids.html
I used the black foam that came with the light for the spring to sit on. It was a pain getting that spring back on too
Photos gen 1: https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gene...nstall-07-burgandy-busa-gods-flash-light.html
So first take off two inner panels as well as chin skirt. Then two side panels.
Then remove windshield. After this you need to take off gauge cluster trim pieces. Be careful but some snapping and popping as they come loose is normal. Scares me but thats how it is. They 'snap' when they come apart.
No need to remove nose
Now lay a towel over triple tree so when you remove gauge cluster the possibility of scratching your gauge faces is less. Thanks again Tim for the tip.
When removing the instrument cluster, the tab to push in to release the plug is on the bottom side of the plug, and can be tricky to find
On the back of the instrument cluster there are two plugs that have to be unplugged besides the two bolts. I recommend using a little grease when reinstalling so they come in/out better (like what's recommended on the body covers)
Next remove both oem bulbs and lay them aside.
The top one is the low beam and bottom is high beam.
Low beam has a big rubber grommet on it that pops in to protect bulb.
Remove grommet and then you can unclip lowbeam bulb.
High beam twist and locks into place. Comes right out.
For DDM unit
high beam HID unit will be a complete plug and use system ready to go
The low beam HID unit will have two spade connectors instead of a plug in harness
The new units come with clear plastic covers protecting the bulbs. One simply tapes off and the other is a two piece cover that screws over the bulb. The base of the cover that screws over the bulb can be removed by pulling each one of the wires from the bulb one at a time thru the collar and then thru the base of the clear protective cover. If you do one wire at a time each connector on that wire will fit thru both at the same time will not. Once you got the covers off you can put the bulbs in the bike. There are also two large rubber grommets that come on the new bulbs. Carefully cut these off. Each one of the four wires goes thru this so be careful and take your time. Again cut the rubber grommets on the new units not any grommets on bike or the large one you removed to get lowbeam out.
The large sofT rubber grommet right behind the HID bulb is what you cut off.
NOTHING ON BIKE NOR ANY PARTS FROM BIKE GET CUT.
The HID ballast I put in the same place as Tim did on the right side ram air tube. I used double sided tape to stick the ballasts together and then zip tied them to ram air tube. The resistors for the HID units I put in same place again as Tim. First I zip tied them together and then zip tied them to the frame work where cluster attaches to. The extra wiring TIm did not have I simply folded it up wrapped it with elec tape and secured the roll with a zip tie. All the other wires again I zip tied in a roll and secured them as forward as poss so they would not contact dampner when it moved.
The new HID lowbeam came with a collar over it that has nipples on it .
This collar prevents the bulb from seating properly inside headlamp assbly unless modified. You need to trim the tabs on the collar as you see in my pics in order to get it to go deep enough into the assbly so you can secure it with the clip. Connect all plugs. Then you can test both to make sure the operate correctly.
If they both work you can secure ballasts to ramair tube, resistors to framework up front and wrap and secure all wires. After that put it all back together and your done !
Each one with the bulb included was only $24.99 and the papers that came with each one say warranted for life of original purchaser
TIP: Use BLACK zipties
the tab of the bulb I'm holding, and the new bulb also, FACES UP to properly seat when reinstalling.
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-ii-busa-information/124304-gen2-hid-install.html
