HID flick when I turn them on

coreywiley

Registered
I'm sorry family! I know It's about a thousand posts on here about HID's,but I have to add one more cause I need help. I have an 08 and I installed the Mcculloch. When I turn my light on They looked more like strobs. I hit the turn signal and the damn things went off. I saw a post with where someone was having the same problem, but I can't find it to save my life. So can someone please tell me what I did wrong!
 
Thanks guys. That's exactly it. Duh! I haven't rode my bike in about a month cause I ordered a piece and they sent me the wrong part so I had to send it back to Cali. I'll let everyone know who and what company when I finally get my part. Thanks again.
 
If you have not already found the answer, use a delay timer or add a shut off switch.
The initial current needed to start a HID is high.
I use the cut off, and start the busa with the light off.
I am going to change to a double pole switch which will turn on another lamp when the switch is in the off position. I will either add a small LED or tap an existing lamp. Probably use the shift lamp as the headlight off warning.
 
I've had a couple of people tell me that a relay is not needed with the 08. i just want the damn things to work
 
I've had a couple of people tell me that a relay is not needed with the 08. i just want the damn things to work

***Update***
I just came inside from starting my bike up and the HID worked because I jumped the bike off. Now I need to buy a battery because It wouldn't start again after I switched it off. I'm like damn i just got in may. is there somewhere I can purchase a fairly inexspensive one or some where I can take it to get charged? I mean do it have to be at a MC dealership? I just spent almost 3 g's on the thing only to find out now that I need to get a battery. Possibly!
Thanks for all the info family.
 
you need to run it for a while to get the battery charged back up.
as far as a cheaper battery goes check walmart, and grab a trickle charger when you get a chance.
 
And to get the battery charged, RPM's need to be above 3K.....idling will not do anything.
 
a trickle charger adds charge to the battery in small increments. It's not enough to jump-start a dead battery. It's also known as a battery tender. When the batter gets full it turns itself off. When it starts to deplete again (which it will do just sitting there) it turns on again and adds more charge. That's the short version.
 
What exactly is a trickle charger? I found a good one on ebay.

Trickle charging, or float charging, means charging a battery at a similar rate as it is self-discharging, thus maintaining a full capacity battery. Most rechargeable batteries, particularly nickel-cadmium batteries or nickel metal hydride batteries, have a moderate rate of self-discharge, meaning they gradually lose their charge even if they are not used in a device. One must be careful, however, that if a battery regulator is not employed, the charge rate isn't greater than the level of self-discharge, or overcharging and possible damage or leakage may occur.

The difference between a float charger and a trickle charger is that the float has circuitry to prevent overcharging. It senses when the battery voltage is at the maximum level and temporarily shuts off the charge (floats voltage at zero or a very minimal charge until it senses that the battery output voltage has fallen, then resumes charging ). You can keep it connected indefinitely.

A trickle charger, on the other hand, will charge no matter whether the battery is fully charged or not. So it needs to be connected and disconnected periodically. If left in place too long it'll eventually boil the electrolyte out of the cells or damage the plates. Trickle chargers will work to keep the battery charged if used once a month or so for a day or 2, but the float chargers can be left connected indefinitely without potential harm to the battery.

For example, a 24 volt battery pack, comprising 12 2-volt flooded lead-acid cells, which has been deeply discharged, would normally be restored by a boost charge of approximately 2.4 volts per cell for a short time (perhaps around 72 hours). Once the collective cell voltage reaches a surface charge of 28.8 volts (2.4 volts x 12 cells), the charge rate would be switched to the sustained lower float-charging rate of typically 2.23 volts.

Eventually, with the Boost charge removed, the surface charge will diminish slightly and the battery-bank voltage will stabilise at a preset float voltage, in the case of the example above to approximately 27 volts (2.23 volts x 12).

Charging rates for a trickle charge are very low. For example, if the normal capacity of a battery is C (ampere-hours), the battery may be designed to be discharged at a rate of C/8 or an 8-hour rate. The recharge rate may be at the C/8 rate or as fast as C/2 for some types of battery. A float or trickle charge might be as low as C/300 ( a 300-hour discharge rate) to overcome the self-discharge. Allowable trickle charging rates must conform to the battery manufacturer's recommendations.

In low duty-cycle applications, where a relatively high current or power is required infrequently, charger costs can be minimized by applying trickle-charging principles. This can be an economy measure in cases where the charging method could be quite expensive if the full charging rate were employed, such as solar-cell installations. Full battery capacity can be achieved at a low charging current over a long period of time to provide a high-power load for a short period.
 
Trickle charging, or float charging, means charging a battery at a similar rate as it is self-discharging, thus maintaining a full capacity battery. Most rechargeable batteries, particularly nickel-cadmium batteries or nickel metal hydride batteries, have a moderate rate of self-discharge, meaning they gradually lose their charge even if they are not used in a device. One must be careful, however, that if a battery regulator is not employed, the charge rate isn't greater than the level of self-discharge, or overcharging and possible damage or leakage may occur.

The difference between a float charger and a trickle charger is that the float has circuitry to prevent overcharging. It senses when the battery voltage is at the maximum level and temporarily shuts off the charge (floats voltage at zero or a very minimal charge until it senses that the battery output voltage has fallen, then resumes charging ). You can keep it connected indefinitely.

A trickle charger, on the other hand, will charge no matter whether the battery is fully charged or not. So it needs to be connected and disconnected periodically. If left in place too long it'll eventually boil the electrolyte out of the cells or damage the plates. Trickle chargers will work to keep the battery charged if used once a month or so for a day or 2, but the float chargers can be left connected indefinitely without potential harm to the battery.

For example, a 24 volt battery pack, comprising 12 2-volt flooded lead-acid cells, which has been deeply discharged, would normally be restored by a boost charge of approximately 2.4 volts per cell for a short time (perhaps around 72 hours). Once the collective cell voltage reaches a surface charge of 28.8 volts (2.4 volts x 12 cells), the charge rate would be switched to the sustained lower float-charging rate of typically 2.23 volts.

Eventually, with the Boost charge removed, the surface charge will diminish slightly and the battery-bank voltage will stabilise at a preset float voltage, in the case of the example above to approximately 27 volts (2.23 volts x 12).

Charging rates for a trickle charge are very low. For example, if the normal capacity of a battery is C (ampere-hours), the battery may be designed to be discharged at a rate of C/8 or an 8-hour rate. The recharge rate may be at the C/8 rate or as fast as C/2 for some types of battery. A float or trickle charge might be as low as C/300 ( a 300-hour discharge rate) to overcome the self-discharge. Allowable trickle charging rates must conform to the battery manufacturer's recommendations.

In low duty-cycle applications, where a relatively high current or power is required infrequently, charger costs can be minimized by applying trickle-charging principles. This can be an economy measure in cases where the charging method could be quite expensive if the full charging rate were employed, such as solar-cell installations. Full battery capacity can be achieved at a low charging current over a long period of time to provide a high-power load for a short period.

Thats what I was going to say!:whistle::laugh::thumbsup:
 
I have a half dozen or so trickle chargers, I think 4 are battery tender brand. They are seem to be the best.
 
Battery Tender will do just fine.

And do a search for DEI 528T Time Delay relay, works great with HID's and it's easy to install...
 
Battery Tender PLus is what I have.

I now keep it plugged in all the time when not riding. I lose my battery either from the Scorpio or the GiPro, but it runs down pretty fast.
 
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