Just did the 500 mile oil change on my new Busa.

Putting the drain plug back in, you guessed it, I stripped out the threads in the oil pan.

I put the plug in as well as I could and filled it back up with oil. I ran it for 6 or 7 minutes. It may be dripping a slight amount or I could just be seeing the oil that got all over the pipe when I drained it. I'm letting it cool now then I'll clean up the oil with brake-clean and let it run again to see what happens.

I want to get it back to the dealer to be fixed right. It's about a 30 mile ride on the Interstate. Should I chance riding it or get it towed in?

Any estimates of how much the screw up is going to cost me (new oil pan and labor)?
That really stinks doesn't it? It almost makes you wish you had taken it in and paid the dealer the outragous price he charges to change it. My dealer told me it was going to be around $180.00 for the first service. I asked what do you do. He replied, change the oil and filter, adjust the chain, and make sure everything else is secure. I don't know what that means but I did it myself and my bike is still together.

Sorry about the crossthread, I know that really stinks.

Man...I don't know how much an oil pan is for the Busa...I needed to replace one on a zx9r an I think it was gonna cost about $250 for the pan and $150 in labor...I didn't strip mine...I actually broke the pan where the plug goes in but ended up having it welded and didn't have any other problems...Clean the plug area really good and put some paper under it for the night...You'll know in the morning if you stripped or cracked it...Will it tighten any???
If oil is dripping from plug I would not ride it that far oil on exhaust could catch on fire. A helicoil can be used to repair this.
with the right tools you can make new threads and plug a bigger size drain plug and you are done .

It's easy and cost much less than changing the oil pan.
Clean off the old oil with brake clean and check for a leak. If it's dry take a short test ride and recheck for any fresh oil. If it's still dry you will be alright for now. Your options would be to repair it with something like a Heilcoil insert or a over size drain plug if available. Worst case would be to replace the oil pan. Good luck and let us now how things work out.
After I changed oil/filter, it took good 10 - 15 min of idling to burn down all the oil that spilled on the exhaust pipes. So, before you panic, wipe everything when it's cold. Then, start her up, get a good spotlight, and start looking where you see the smoke.

Use mirror to see what's going on around drain plug.

Maybe everything is fine.
All bolts and nuts should be started by hand to make sure they are not cross theaded. Spark plugs and drain plugs for sure, you should be able to thead it all the way with your hand and just snug it with the wrench. If you can still thead the drain plug in you might of just messed up the bottom threads and might be able to use the right size tap to repair the threads.
I think he over tightened it and stripped the threads. Its not that hard to do.
Yes to the above post.

When I loosened the plug to drain the oil it seemed very tight- way more than 16.5 ft/lbs. I had to really pull on a half inch drive ratchet to break it loose. Maybe that was the problem.

When I put it back in I tightened it all the way to the crush ring by hand; it wasn't cross threaded. Then I put a torque wrench on it set at 17 ft/lbs. Might have been the extra half pound that did it.

Be that as it may, it's a new bike so I'm getting it fixed right. I ordered a new oil pan, gasket, plug and crush ring. The parts will be in tomorrow and the dealer is sending a truck to pick up the bike.

Live and learn- the next time I'll be ALOT more careful.