Help to get front sprocket off...

nectrplnt

Registered
So my stock sprockets lasted 35k. And my extended chain, 20k. Before I tackle this job of replacement, can someone give me the best practices for the front sprocket removal? Thx.
 
I just did this a couple months ago on my Busa,,

Remove the left side fairing.

Remove and unplug speed sensor to prevent damage.

Remove the clutch support (do NOT press on the clutch lever with the slave cyl./support off the bike).

Remove the speed sensor rotor, (you can hold the sprocket from turning with a piece of wood or use an impact wrench).

Remove the large nut on the output shaft (I used an impact wrench and held the sprocket from turning with a piece of wood).

Reassemble in reverse order using an impact wrench to tighten the engine sprocket nut or if you have a way to hold the sprocket stationary the torque spec. for the engine sprocket nut is 105 lb.ft.
Torque spec. for the sensor rotor bolt is 20 lb.ft..
 
I've not done this on my busa yet but tackled this job on my ZX-14 a while back. I actually wrote an illustrated tutorial here is the thread....different bike, parts not exactly the same.. but some of the info may be of use to you.

Sprocket/Drive Chain Replacement

like this: I stuck a rag wrapped bar across the swingarm and through the spokes on the rear wheel. Tis is what held the drive train in place while I reefed on the front sprocket. Speaking of which....one of the very firat things I suggest is that you be very careful while wrenching if you use a breaker bar....very easy to tip bike over with one of those...:banghead:Also be careful when removing rear sprocket nuts....the rear wheel seems to be on eof the easiest places to lever a bike over.
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I would try it with a ratchet or pull handle before throwing an impact wrench on my tranny, but that's just me :laugh:

I have never had an issue spinning this nut.
 
Did you use a breaker bar?
No, I haven't needed to, but I would recommend using a breaker bar and or cheater before throwing an impact wrench on my tranny. If you do use an impact wrench , I recommend you have the bike in neutral.
 
No, I haven't needed to, but I would recommend using a breaker bar and or cheater before throwing an impact wrench on my tranny. If you do use an impact wrench , I recommend you have the bike in neutral.

yes the motor will not hold the transmission against 30-40 ft lbs of torque which is what you will need at the least. leave bike in neutral. Then just use the old bar through the spokes across the swingarm trick. I have heard some hang a weight from the rear brake pedal to hold the wheel stationary but I can't see any reason to chance that either. Bar thru spoke aX swingarm which has been padded with rags. fool proof. (no offense :laugh:) Try a 1/2 inch drive ratchet. If no worky, you go Autozone, get BIG bar!! be very careful you do not lift the bike off the rear stand.

You should use a rear stand for this.

Also, you can just slide an old pipe over the handle of a wrench instead of using a breaker bar but by the time you get a pipe, might as well spend the $12 and get a real bar with square drive.

OH....also really should be using black metal impact socket for this. A ordinary steel could possibly split under heavy torque....prolly not one the size of the countershaft nut but there is a reason they make black metal sockets. I use them for the tough jobs.
 
I would try it with a ratchet or pull handle before throwing an impact wrench on my tranny, but that's just me :laugh:

I have never had an issue spinning this nut.

I always blocked the rear wheel and used a breaker bar until I read a post by a very well known engine builder who only used an impact. The trans. is always in neutral when doing this so I don't see what would be hurt.

Much easier with the impact plus no worry about pulling the bike over.
 
Front sprocket nut is a standard right hand thread and takes a 36mm socket.
I sit on the bike, hold the rear brake pedal and use a breaker bar with a pipe on it.
I have had to use an impact on some of them before.
 
I always blocked the rear wheel and used a breaker bar until I read a post by a very well known engine builder who only used an impact. The trans. is always in neutral when doing this so I don't see what would be hurt.

Much easier with the impact plus no worry about pulling the bike over.

I guess opinions are just that, but I've had several mechanics state they would not use the impact wrench. As far as me personally, I've never had an issue, this nut has always spun off easy for me. Mythos , with an impact wrench it won't matter if the rear tire is locked down or not.
 
As a matter of fact guys, when I changed the chain and sprockets on the Gen II the socket I had for the Gen I wouldn't work ( from failing memory ) , so I used the rear axle nut wrench provided by zuki instead of buying another expensive socket. So that should tell you how easy it turned for me. I had to bend the handle a little for clearance. Just put it in a bench vice and bent it.
 
I just did this last night, as I'm dropping the motor on Saturday and it took me maybe 15min. No impact, just used the bar on the swingarm method with the bike in neutral. Be sure to use a breaker bar on the sprocket nut as it is in there tight (my breaker bar was flexing too!!!). Oh and the speed sensor bolt is in there like a mother too so you will have to use some effort.. It's an easy job, just get to it!!!!
 
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